ac question

we started up the car(warmend up to peak temp) , the ac blew nice and frosty, then we drove for 1 mile it blew warm and then it was semi intermittent and after 10 miles we took it home. shut it down for 5 minutes and then it blew cold. the car has been converted 134 if it makes a difference but it has in been charges sins july.. any ideas?

we started up the car(warmend up to peak temp) , the ac blew nice and frosty, then we drove for 1 mile it blew warm and then it was semi intermittent and after 10 miles we took it home. shut it down for 5 minutes and then it blew cold. the car has been converted 134 if it makes a difference but it has in been charges sins july.. any ideas?

 

 

Uh.... You bought a Countach not a Cadi?

Uh.... You bought a Countach not a Cadi?

hahaha i tried to tell my dad that

Most likely, needs recharging.

We recharge A/C at my shop, about 100-150 per season. R134a systems seem to need charging every 2 years. Some longer, some have to be charged every year.

These systems are not as tight as they get older.

BTW, I have charge many R-12 cars with R134a refrigerant with no modifications.......at the request of the customer. All have been running fine, some for 10-15 years. Personally, I'd at least change the oil in the system too.

Check for proper voltage at the compressor with the AC running. At idle, there is most likely enough voltage to engage the compressor clutch enough to provide cooling, but at higher RPM's, the compressor clutch begins to slip and therefore the cooling drops off. Dont run it like that anymore. It wont take long to burn the compressor clutch up and then you will be buying a new one. You can replace it if it indeed dies with a Sanden 508 compressor, and they can be purchased reasonably, but the install is still a pain in the ass.

 

Check all the wiring and relays associated with that circuit if you have low voltage at the compressor. You may end up having to install a "booster" relay closer to the compressor to provide proper voltage. It's technically an incorrect fix, but it's much easier than running new wires, or finding the connector that is creating the resistance somewhere between the front compartment and the compressor. I looked forever (seemed like it at least) for the culprit in my voltage drop scenario, and finally relented and added the booster relay. Thing works great.

 

For a Countach that is

Check for proper voltage at the compressor with the AC running. At idle, there is most likely enough voltage to engage the compressor clutch enough to provide cooling, but at higher RPM's, the compressor clutch begins to slip and therefore the cooling drops off. Dont run it like that anymore. It wont take long to burn the compressor clutch up and then you will be buying a new one. You can replace it if it indeed dies with a Sanden 508 compressor, and they can be purchased reasonably, but the install is still a pain in the ass.

 

Check all the wiring and relays associated with that circuit if you have low voltage at the compressor. You may end up having to install a "booster" relay closer to the compressor to provide proper voltage. It's technically an incorrect fix, but it's much easier than running new wires, or finding the connector that is creating the resistance somewhere between the front compartment and the compressor. I looked forever (seemed like it at least) for the culprit in my voltage drop scenario, and finally relented and added the booster relay. Thing works great.

 

For a Countach that is

thank you for that information about the clutch that is what we suspected.

If you recharge use Duracool. R12 is not that great and 134 is worse.

Duracool is colder and uses bigger molecules so you need a bigger leak for the gas to escape.

It also doesn't hurt the environment if it does escape. I have seen ice bits blowing out the vents and

have been cold in the middle of summer IN A COUNTACH.

If you recharge use Duracool. R12 is not that great and 134 is worse.

Duracool is colder and uses bigger molecules so you need a bigger leak for the gas to escape.

It also doesn't hurt the environment if it does escape. I have seen ice bits blowing out the vents and

have been cold in the middle of summer IN A COUNTACH.

 

Ken qv,

What needs to be done to accomplish this?

Do any parts need to be replaced,(comp., comp oil, drier, ect..) or can the system be vaccumed and recharged?

Anything different to be aware of then a "standard" A/C service.

Thanks for sharing!

 

 

Ken qv,

Do you remember if you used any of the additives that Duracool offers, like Duradry, or A/C oil chill?

Was the refrigerant you used Duracool 12a?

Thanks again!

Ken qv,

Do you remember if you used any of the additives that Duracool offers, like Duradry, or A/C oil chill?

Was the refrigerant you used Duracool 12a?

Thanks again!