Stimpy

Here's a video that is interesting and sad (don't worry, it's not a manual transmission Murci) of the breaking of a wrecked Murci for DIY'ers. It shows the location and access routes to many parts on the interior and engine compartment that you wouldn't normally be able to see without tearing apart your car.

If you don't have the key for the airbag (it's not your ignition key), they are cheap and easy to buy, and all the same for all model years of the Murci. I think I paid $20 from one of the common vendors.

You're welcome. My wiper arm did not want to come off and it took quite a big of force from the puller to get it off. I wouldn't have wanted to put that kind of force on the assembly yanking on the arm. So be ready because yours may come off easily, but maybe not the Murci you find. Try to get the 06+ arm because it's much more sleak than the one on my car.

The mounting location looks about right and of a similar design. Do you know of any Murci owners around you that would let you try their wiper arm? It's only 1 allen screw and 2 nuts to take off the Murci wiper arm, but if it hasn't been off in a while, you'll want to use a mini 3 arm puller (cheap at Harbor Freight) to pop it loose. Tip, leave the nut for the arm on, but loosened as much as possible to provide a seat for the center of the puller that won't slip off.

As others have found, beam style wiper blades don't fit on the 02-05 Murci, and it's not cheap ($1200 on please check with our franchised lamborghini dealer sponsors) to fit a 06+ wiper arm, if the new wiper arm even fits because the wiper motor is a different part number. I wanted the beam style because the OEM style takes up a lot of windshield space and makes my vertically challenged family members less comfortable riding in the car when all they see is wiper blade. So I spent some quality time in Autozone studying their wiper blades compared to the OEM wiper blade. I didn't want to do a lot of mods to the wiper arm so I could revert back to the original style at sale time, so I had to find a wiper blade I could modify. In the end, I found the 28" RainX Quantum to have the best potential to be made to fit, and took it home for almost the price of a new OEM traditional style one: $29 for 1 blade! I'll get more pics up later, but basically I removed the mount that came with the RainX blade by unclipping it from the pin and then took a dremel to shave out the inside of that area on the blade until the mount from the original OEM blade could fit in slot. The pin that holds the RainX mount is much smaller than the pin in the OEM blade, and that seems like a show stopper, but this does not matter because when you mount the new blade onto the arm, the arm wraps around the pin and holds it firm from it's hook design. There is no fear of this blade ever falling off. I did have to slightly bend the end of the wiper arm down and up in a vice (with rubber pads to protect the paint finish) to give a little more clearance for the wiper arm from the windshield, but it's minor and I can still mount the old blade without changing it back and noticing anything different. Later I'll take the blade off and clean up the area I dremeled with a sanding block and take more pics. When it's time to change the blade, I will most likely just move over the rubber insert from the new blade to the old beam so I don't have to carve out the blade again. Or I may be able to unclip the whole mount and put it on the new blade. The result is a blade that takes up only a 1/2" of windscreen space instead of 2" - 3". And the 28" versus 30" length really doesn't make a difference in visibility in my tests of spraying the windshield with window cleaner and testing the blade cleaning.

Well, I am looking at the 06 version of the owner's manual, and it says the brake like is used for: "Brake fluid level is too low or if there is a malfunction in the braking system or when the parking brake is engaged." That could explain why you're not getting anywhere troubleshooting the parking brake. How's your fluid level?

Is that same dash light used for a warning on the rest of the braking system?

This is an old thread, but I am counting on it not being correct, and I want to update it so it doesn't throw off others searching. I should find out 100% in the coming weeks because I am planning to go the route of sport cats w/ valves combined with split input LP640 tips on my 6.2l. I will control the valves with a 3rd party remote control. The part number for a 2010 LP640 muffler is the same as the 6.2, so that means much of the alignment has to be the same for the pipes going into and out of the muffler and the frame mounting location of the muffler. I just did a visual check of the clearances and the path under the car, and I don't see any conflicts for the pipes or the vacuum canisters with the chassis, sway bar or parking brake. Plus whiteout confirmed in a PM that this should work as long as I am using the primaries and the tail pipes meant for the LP640 with valves. So no one has done this since on their 6.2l? It looks like SUPA-G's buddy could have scored a full IPE exhaust and 911TRBO could have saved by reusing his LOC (especially because the LOC just replaces the muffler, and the muffler is the same exact part number between the 6.2 and LP640 -- no need to worry about the tips and primaries lining up to connect to each other.)

Some people like to save whales or trees or the globe, I like saving cars from this type of torture. Unfortunately, my funds are not unlimited, so I will need your support on my GoFundMe campaign! https://www.gofundme.com/save-supercars-from-stupid-people

Not surprised the YouTube comments aren't kind.

I saw that car in person. It's hard to tell why it's a total loss, and the sales rep didn't know, but he was upfront about the loss even if their ads for the car aren't. Sitting in it felt like a car with 50K miles to me, not 2K miles. If it could speak, it would have probably told me, "walk away." I'm glad I snapped up a manual when I did, because I am seeing less and less of those for sale.

Another options is to open up the door panel and see if there is anything you can do to make the door lighter. Considering how heavy they made an all-carbon fiber car, I am sure there's something in there that could be removed. I have a new set of struts waiting to go in my car because I noticed the passenger door will lift itself up, but the driver door needs help. So since my struts are the original 12 year old units, you can bet the new ones will have more lifting power. Yours aren't that old, but a new set will be stronger than your 8 year old ones.

Looks like this was a beautiful example that was for sale in 2009 here in Houston (at least the dealer had a Houston area code back then): http://www.nairaland.com/225985/need-lamborghini If it's mechanically good, restoring it back wouldn't be too expensive. I wouldn't be surprised though if the wrap is hiding some needed paint work. Otherwise, a new set of exhaust tips, fill the wing holes, and paint the wheels, as they aren't really a very offensive design.

I guess the problem fixed itself because Sharpie seems to have lost interest in his own thread...

Here's a thread to discuss interesting (in good ways and bad ways) Murci's for sale, like they do on Bring a Trailer. This one inspired me to start this thread: http://www.ebay.com/itm/262271432021?force...1&viewitem= The wrap immediately has me shaking my head, and then you see the Honda style wing screwed into the rear deck including through the stock spoiler, and the quad exhaust, and I just want to buy it to save it. But it has a upgraded bumper, and the interior is surprisingly clean and unmolested. It has recent Kevlar clutch as a plus too. The price seems really low at Buy It Now for less than $110k with claimed no accident history. Isn't that below market for some pretty reversible mods even if they lack taste?

Titanium really seems like overkill for these cars over other conventional materials because it's not that big of a system to make enough of a weight difference to justify the cost, and these cars live a much easier life than regular daily drivers that seem to last just fine these days without titanium (not like exhausts from the 70's and earlier).

Kinda pricey for an even simpler and more homemade look option than the LOC: http://titekusa.com/collections/lamborghin...hini-murcielago

Thanks! The problem with sport mufflers is my car likes to drone, but the stock muffler fixes that while any sport mufflers don't. I am almost 50, so I have done the hot rodding thing to death (lucky to still be alive and not killed myself or anyone else, or even ever had an any kind of accident), so I am ok with driving around an extra passenger in the form of the heaviest muffler ever put in a passenger vehicle. Opening up the valves would probably be pretty rare for me and just for showing people the car, or coffee and car events where they love to hear them some exhaust.

I already know what to expect because I having been putting ceramic pads on everything I own from my Lotus Esprit V8, to family cars like Jaguar XF, and even SUV's like Range Rover Sport. I've come to prefer the smoother braking as opposed to the grabby feel of the metallic pads. But if you want that grabby feel, you just can't go with these types of ceramics. I understand in Europe, they love the grabby feel and just don't car about the brake dust and squealing. Without doing a Car and Driver braking test, my experience is that when you really need the stopping power, it's there with the ceramics, without the initial bite. When all your cars have these pads, it becomes the new norm, and it's annoying to drive a car with grabby brakes. If I was going to track the car (I won't) I would drop in the metallics because that's just not what ceramics do.

The ad claims the cost of the parts for the body kit, wheels, etc were about $100K

I am also having trouble finding videos of 6.2's with no cats and straight out with no xpipe or resonators or anything else. So I don't know if the noise that will come out when the valves are open will be a noise anyone will want to hear. Surely, I can't be the first one to come up with the idea of putting a parts intended for a LP640 on to a 6.2 to get a valved exhaust for a 10th of the price of what people like Kressieg want to charge. So someone has to have tried it, or heard it

Looks like I could add a remote control for not a lot of money and skip running wires and mounting switches into the cabin: http://www.tanskyshop.com/tansky-exhaust-c...pdz-p-1704.html http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-2-Exhaus...t-/221970768085

Yes, but without the primary cats in an LP640 setup. It looks like everything lines up the same to use the LP640 specs in the Murci, but I am not a 100% sure the bumper opening lines up the same. Does anyone know of anyone that has taken this route?

So I am having a hard time believing I am going to find an exhaust system that won't drive my g/f nuts being too loud, won't drive me nuts by droning at 2K RPM, still have a good racy sound, not stink without cats, and not cost $20K. So has anyone tried this idea: Use FabSpeed Primary Cat Bypass with valves: http://www.fabspeed.com/lamborghini-murcie...atbypass-pipes/ Keep the stock secondaries Keep the stock monster muffler Use Larini slash cut tips with split entry: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lamborghini-Murcie...8435058?vxp=mtr Then connect the valved bypass output directly to the Larini cut tips entry and hook up a vacuum actuator with a switch in the console. I could then switch between flat out straight pipes and stock muffler with secondary cats. Anyone do this?

This one has less than 1400 miles on the odo, and the bolster looks pretty rough. They could also use my DIY on adjusting the alignment of the center console access panel in the passenger foot well. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lamborghini-Murcie...em=111886144403