Old Guy Garage

LOL

AWESOME, now I have arrived :-) Thanks!

One final thing, then I will shut up. Hopefully the dealer/shop properly bled the system. Can't assume anything nowadays.

That does not mean they are perhaps drawing too many amps, or not enough. Could be an upstream connector or loose wiring elsewhere besides the connector. Also what about the thermo switches that turn the fans on? And finally, how do you know the temperature gauge or sender is accurate sincew the car is "new" to you and you don't have a baseline. Going back to the original post though, increased cooling by turning the heater on, IMHO, that given that all other items have been checked and tested out, points towards perhaps scale which will reduce efficiency or solder bloom, if the radiators are not all aluminum and plastic, inside the radiators. "Solder bloom is a reaction between the brass tanks, headers, the copper core, and the solder and is caused by the degradation of rust and leak inhibitors in antifreeze. " Too bad you did not check the PH of the old coolant before dumping it. That would have been a good clue. Lot's of causes, just have to keep eliminating them one by one. I'll sit back now and wait to hear the result, which I hope you post when you get it sorted.

If the heater core reduces temperature then that indicates your main radiators or fans are not functioning as designed or lack of airflow. I would look closely at the fans, expansion tank cap, ducting, blades, stuck thermostat, and finally radiators. You should also pressure test the system to see if it holds pressure. In the old days when an engine ran hot we used to turn the heater on to reduce temps. This was in iron blocks as the sediment in the coolant would block the rad tubes. Once the rad was flushed all was well again. Radiator caps were also a problem. Do the cheap stuff first to rule them out. If all good I would then look at the radiators for reduced function. Overall they are not very big to begin with considering.

Nice wheel color. With a white car the sky is the limit in regards to wheel color. Go for something outrageous.

Your welcome. Love mine

Any of those tenders will work, just make sure its compatible with your battery, FLA, AGM, etc. No need to overspend. I bought this one and love it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014QYFAWS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The dip I used WAS a bronze, not gold, didn't want to go too bling. Thanks Guys. I do try to keep it clean, though only wash it every two drives. I do use my secret sauce though to wash it. Helps tremendously with water spots. http://www.nopostspro.com and you can just rinse in between washes.

Thought you might enjoy my recent Murcielago Video, plasti dipping :-0

Great looking car, love that 670 style. Get the codes read and see what it is or have someone do it and let us know

It's all good though .

Thanks Stimpy. As you have seen I try to keep it like that. An OCD problem. Don't know why they did it like that, but if it goes in first it still has to back out right? In any case the clutch snap when I bled the actuator was only down .01mm :-)))

Damn Doug... HE caused me to buy my first Lambo, seriously. A few months after watching this video, I had to have one. I love mine. Here's mine getting delivered.

That's the next step. Like I mentioned it is just a "seep", no leaks. I am on a mission to perfection, OCD, and this is the last little niggling thing to be done. To give you an example, not lambo but here is an engine I built a few years ago. One of the things I did to it was replace all the bolts with SS fasteners and hand polished them. 90% of them you could not even see. https://youtu.be/gstkIoyvyFA