Old Guy Garage

Thought I would share these, just got the order in and they EXCEEDED my expectations, super high quality and cheap! Grab a pair. Not affiliated in any way. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wheel-Hanger-Tool-set-14x1-5-Thread-Bolt-Guide-for-BMW-Mercedes-Volvo-Porsche/382940914412?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I'd like a copy as well if you get that sorted please.

Beautiful Ed. Love to see it in person some time.

Here's the unit, exploded view, ready to assemble

I know "they" are good. It's mine, should have clarified it further. In a past life I used to be an ASE certified mechanic. As I knew my starter was failing I sourced a good used starter that I rebuilt using new parts, same as the one offered, then I swapped it out with my original when the time came. Then rebuilt this one. The unit has been completely gone though as described. The biggest fail of these Murci starters is the solenoid. That's why you get the clicking when trying to engage the starter with a fully charged battery. I sourced two quality solenoids which are pretty much unobtainable for these starters. Very robust starter in general and is planetary driven too.

If anyone is interested in a newly rebuilt starter. https://www.ebay.com/itm/323799427065

As Stimpy said it was the front hose. I am in Central Fl. Anybody else close?

Good job! Did you mention you have the LOC exhaust as well? Can't wait to hear the results. Tavarish and I did a Murcielago rev off as well. My Murci, his Murci and Gallardo, 430 Scuderia and a Focus, LOL. I posted this video in General, but it makes sense to post it here too I think. https://youtu.be/RPx0XJUf_wM

PS; check the Fabspeed pipe exhaust valves to make sure the vacuum line connections are on the correct side, mine were installed backward from them. You can't fix it in the car.

Love your videos. You inspired me to order a set of fabspeed primary deletes. THANKS! Package Came in mail today. Couldn’t wait so I quickly got started. Took me about a hour to tear down and get left side cat loose. I tried to take out without removing sway bar. No luck. Guess I’ll have to do that tomorrow. Yes, it has to come out, dont be like me and bolt the exhaust back and had to remove it as I thought I could get the sway bar in after, :-\ Driver side is a PITA. This side is going to fight me. First try and I broke the clamp nut. I’ll have to figure out how to spin the clamp to get access to the other one. Any tips would be much appreciated Do I really need to lift the engine? If I do, Did you have to loosen the two engine mounts? I did loosen the DS motormount to slide the cat out. Also lifted it slightly with a floor jack on that side and a 2x4 Another question I see you are using o2 spacers Are the 90 degree ones better than straight? I see several types on amazon Any in particular work best for murci? I bought similar these 02 sensor mounts, 90 degrees, https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-O2-Oxygen-Sensor-Angled-Extender-Spacer-90-degree-02-Bung-Extension-M18-X-1-5-/253682711229?hash=item3b10aafabd I hope to take video of the sound of both loc and tubi with primary and secondary deletes Looking forward to it

As the title said, Tavarish and I had a Murcielago rev off. Also with a TT Gallardo and manual 430 Scuderia. Take a look.

I am going to upgrade my f1 pump this week with the HD f1 pump motor. You can replace the motor only, you do not have to crack the system to do it. I figure after 11 years it could not hurt. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r6jh5SV8t1w&t=1s He has them for lamborghini as well

I wanted to add to this excellent thread from the OP and add my observations as I just did this starter replacement yesterday on my 07 LP640. Like most here the starter itself did not fail but the solenoid did. Clicking. 1. I did not remove the e-brake cable as it was not in the way to remove the starter. 2. I only removed the oil cooler line at the engine sump and tie wrapped it back. 3. For the 36MM wrenches, you can use Ford/Dodge fan wrenches that are 36mm. On amazon $20 each. 4. You do not have to take out the battery unless you disconnect the oil line completely, but I did not as #2 above. /i did take it out to inspect it though. 5. Both nuts on my starter were 17MM The procedure went well as expected. Jack car up, high as you can get it. Lift system up to maximize height. Remove LR wheel and inner liner. I removed the triangle plastic covering the sump drain as I wanted to inspect, though not required. Disconnect battery Drain engine oil, tank and sump. Leave oil filter on till end of job. Remove double hose clamp from oil lines. Disconnect oil line from sump as shown above in OP post, tie wrap to other oil line remaining. Let oil drain for a while from the hose, place plastic baggie over end of oil line otherwise you WILL be wearing oil. Remove electrical from starter. Loosen bottom nut from starter. You MUST and I repeat MUST get a bore scope camera. On mine with the heat shield and the upgraded factory starter it is impossible to see the top starter nut otherwise. Additionally the newer style starter has the starter housing bolts in line as the OP shows with the tape. You will never get it done otherwise IMHO. It was a fight with the top nut getting it off. Going on much better as I used some clay in the socket to hold the nut and on the universal joint I used blue tape to make the swivel stiffer. Also ran the extension back to the rear to get more leverage on the ratchet. Steps 1-8 above took 45 minutes with no hurry, 9,10 and the finish took 2 hours due to fighting the top nut. Not a hard job by any means, but be prepared to fight that top nut.

It was coming from the small hose to the valve body, y-pipe and the oring on the valve body under the fitting. Replaced both, all good. But I did all the low pressure hoses while I was there.

I don't think its bad at all, but saying that I generally am moving forward ;-) This would be a good solution "If you remove the primary cats, and you find it too stinky, at least you can put back on the secondary cats as a solution (if you still have them), and not have to go to the effort of putting back on the stock primaries. "