chucklehead

Thanks, tried cleaning the sensors. Will bite the bullet and get the dealer to read the errors. Found a post that said the M3 rear ABS sensors are a match. Bought some off Ebay, will see if it works.

2004 Murceilago e-gear stock Got the ABS error code, sets off the TCS while driving. Drives fine with TCS turned off. I checked the brake fluid level and it was full. Took the wheels off and checked the ABS sensors. Was checking resistances of the sensors and they were all the same. Went to the ABS computer in the front trunk and checked resistances on the harness and they were consistent. So nothing simple like a broken wire. Tried to read error code off OBS 2 but no codes even though the dash ABS error light is on. I looked at the passenger foot well and found the connector there. Anyone know how to read braking system codes off this?

Thx

To finish up, I bought the CV - Joint Boot w/Shield from Bullstuff. Nice kit, came with clip, retainer, and 2 tubes of VW cv joint grease. The 6 bolts are hexagon cap socket screws M12-1.25. I bought 50 mm length which were about 2 mm longer than stock. The bull is back in action.

Here are pictures of mine. I get a diameter of 3 inches and length of about 30 inches. So dirty and frayed by the wheels, I had to remove them. 2004 Murcielago e-gear

Here are pictures of mine. I get a diameter of 3 inches and length of about 30 inches. So dirty and frayed by the wheels, I had to remove them. 2004 Murcielago e-gear

I am using this car to learn the repairs rather then my more mission-critical vehicles. I don’t depend on the Murcielago for transportation. Doing my own repairs on it makes me love it more.

Thanks for the help. Removed the clip and borrowed joint puller. Got the CV joint off. Going to clean it up and reuse. Have new boot and bolts on order.

The bearing may be okay. Trying to figure out how the 6 bolts backed out. The hub and bearings completely separated. The bolts are nowhere to be seen. Trying to figure the hex socket screw sizes.

Thanks for the advice. Do you need a special tool to remove the star-shaped nut to get the wheel bearing off ? Can't get a socket on it.

I was going to buy a new rubber hood and re-pack the wheel bearing. Not having a lot of experience with this, am I missing anything? Should I just bring it to Boston Lamborghini for repairs? TIA, Charlie These are the beauties at Lime Rock.

There was grease everywhere. I thought it was road tar from construction. As I stripped down the wheel hub, it was grease from the wheel bearing. The rubber hood has split and the drive shaft with wheel bearing separated from wheel hub.

2004 Murcielago e-gear I was driving to Lime Rock Park for a Miller Motors event, Azurro Pagani. Went through several construction sites on Mass Turnpike. Hit a bump and thought I loosened a panel. There was so much noise from right rear wheel well.

I have them in the cellar. I'll place them in some garbage bags for the UV protection. Thx

On a side note, the Pirelli P Zero Rosso tires in 18" are available through Tire Rack now. Just bought a set to keep for the future, driving with P Zero Corsa but they wear out fast.

Great find. Thx

Nice

Yeah, did the 2 jacks with 1 jack on each side. Lifted it as evenly as possible. Same when lowering.

Thx

Also did oil change and front differential fluid change. Looked at rear differential but frame in way of drain bolts. The transmission drain plug was fine but my sockets are too large to get on Fill plug. Have to get shorter sockets to fit. Learned why people say leave the oil sump plug alone. Able to see oil sump behind battery, neck is twisted to drain plug. Used vacuum pump thru oil fill to suck out sump oil. would like to untwist oil sump neck to drain bolt but afraid I would crack it .

Not too bad to do. Was nervous jacking it up.

Removed left rear wheel and removed the panel. The old battery was AGM 34R. Bought NAPA Legend AGM 34R, seems like a hard to find size. Had to order it.

Used 2 jacks begins front wheels for the front and tried to keep them even. It was rocking right and left on the rear jack stands a little.

Jacked up on 4 stands for the first time. Followed instructions. Jacked rear on frame with 1 jack and placed 2 jack stands.

3. Lift front of the instrument cluster up to get the bolts out of the holes then pull towards yourself to clear extension of rear of instrument cluster from dash. 4. Pics of the buttons, They are held in by 2 small philips head screws each. You can see the bolt that holds the instrument cluster to the dash approximately between the buttons and slightly deeper. They were covered by black tape that was removed for pics.