CountachQV

That car was for sale in Marco Island by a retired Pontiac dealer, Florida around 2004 I beleive. So it did not make it thru to Cancda right away?the pict here show the car in the same conditions as in 2004

Well, at least the driver does not look like he just got it at ToysRUs and does not have to put on a clown costume to drive.

I hope its totaled.. any guy driving such a bad replica should be made fun of in public.

anyone knows one of these 2 black QVs ?

Emilio and Albert, It would be good that you guys list the euro shop too. After all you are in Italy! I know some French shop were great but that was 30 years ago... At some point I will need to have my engine out, leather refurbish, paint make new again etc, etc... One would think that a car redone at the factory can't be any better. Am I wrong? From the thread it appears that only in the US you can get the job done best

You guys are not that far apart if I understand this. Russell, you got to pick the shipping tab. That is for the mistake to buy a car unseen with no private PPI. I get it that your offer is 78K which leaves Tony with a $5K profit to get back the car. Tony mentioned he was setup for it. The $75K, I assume. Tony, given the damage being done, I think moving towards Russ price may not be a bad idea. You guys are not that far apart. If Tony moves up to $78K and Russ pick up the shipping tab, its only as matter of getting the money in escrow and have the car inspected visually by tony before it leaves to NOT start again with tempering claims. Regardless you would lose more money in a legal dispute. Remember the best deal is the one where no party is truly happy but can live with. What are the issues which would prevent one or both parties to compromise (Russ for the shipping cost and Tony for the 3K buy back?). If you guys start negotiating from this point you can close this give or take a little if you both are really serious about ending this nightmare. George Evans is not far and could secure the car and the money. He is a really good guy and I am sure he would help out. I think its time to think in a constructive manner, put the ego under the mat, think in a business fashion and close this deal and stop financing the Attorneys for things that a judge will get annoyed at.

Well, one cannot go to some lambo site and see major dramas these days. I am dying to see who would take this as a reality TV show. This thread is so confusing: We got a Buyer who says he offered the seller 75K and shipping back cost but seller refused We got the seller saying he was never offered the car back at $75K and saying the car is a great deal at $83K and now we have a law suit !!??? but sirs we seem to have an agreement at $75K purchase back. No? Seller implies he would be taking the deal by saying $83K is a great deal and 75K was never on the table from Russ. Can someone broker that deal thru escrow? Someone is lying here or Mr. EGOs has fried everyone's brain on both side. Would be great to have a clear answer to the following question by yes or no: 1. Russ, do you agree to sell back the car at 75K with all the items as the car was delivered and appear on the pictures and pay for all costs to ship the car back? 2. Tony, do you agree to take the car back for 75K as you seem to believe that would be a much better deal than the one you offered Russ at 83K ? it should be that simple.

do you have the vin of this car and detailed pict of the sunroof ? I have another car with the claim of a factory sunroof. LEts see if they are close in vin and if the work looks the same

test

Good advice. One has always to wonder about arrogant sellers. In Europe, France in Particular, I always read end end exotic adds with "Buffons, do not call" or "not serious buyer stay away" To me that is a turn off to the willing buyers because it makes you guilty for asking the tough questions. The dreamer will always call the seller anyway as they dont gice a damn.. So what the seller wants in those adds is a douchbag with money, to buy and not ask anything and not be bothered. I personally would stay away from buyers like that as 1) they are not serious in selling 2) if they treat you like dirt before you buy the car, dont expect things to improve after you commit.. Better buy a more expensive car and not have the nightmare to come, or get a guy like Roy who know how to deal with sellers like these and GET A TOP NOTCH PPI!!

Clean the cap may not be enough. When these cars get driven moisture build in the system if the weather is humid (like this summer). I guess even when they dont get driven and are not in an AC living room and in a dry climate of the world. Rust finds its way in that distributor. The bearing get rusty and frozen. The cost of cap/rotor and labor on is just the same as putting a more reliable system. The distributor is great for storing the car in a museum but when a car gets driven, my take is you have to take that distrib out of there. The symptoms are the same as before I did my mod. Car was slowing down and then I had to find the sweet spot not to get the car "fuel starving issue". Was so bad that I thought I really had fueling issues. I happened very quickly. As far as the crackling goes, I am sure any system can be setup for a bit of that. When I push mine, i do get it a bit but not like it was before (a bit much to my taste). The gain in the feel of pushing forward is more than offseting anything else.

+1. Sellers of good cars are not gonna go cheap in a tight market. However, paying more for a sorted car makes sense if you dont want to wait another year or 2 of restoration. The wait for getting anything done to the car at a shop is really a drag on the ownership. I know it is for me. I think any sellers should make a car presentable for a sale or sell below value. To Bobby's Too many people are putting cars in need of work at above value price. that is what is wrong in this market. As far as difference in sale price from buyer to seller I would think the buyer has more motiviation to lower the buy price to claim making a god deal or somehow putting evidences for claiming lower taxes ?

$110K is the top ask. I think that car is set for $100K or $99,999 if the seller is a car salesman. Another countach that should be bought to be a driver car not a museum piece.. the only diff would be the cost of having a good running engine and making the leather decent. Forget spending money on paint, etc...

i am not sure i understand the point. Are you saying that sellers who sold their car are lying about the money they got for it to drive the price of a car they no longer have ? Does not make sense to me.. It is true that some people have up their ask like the injected at $325K+ they quickly realized the car would not sell and dropped the ask. The only guy who has sucessfully pushed the envelope is Roy but he did invest a lot in his cars (QV and 400 and some others) From what i see a good QV is now $180-$200K (without a complete major like Roy's car), 400 re just untouchable and 5000S are selling in the $130-$150K. The only cars linguishing in the market are carb car in europe because they are priced much higher that the US carb cars. So globally, the car US are the first to go. That will not change unless the euro vs. Dollars comes to parity.

Carb cars are become as rare as 68 Degree in December in the USA. Good luck. I wonder if you should not drop your mileage limitation and go for the rain man car. Just a thought, unless money is no object, then at some point someone will let his go.

+1 or porshe 924. dont recall and dont have my notes here. I did it on mine. works great and you have a bit more amp juice.

+1. What is missing from the intial argument is that the one you hear about are the ones lingering on the market. Thoses usually needs a lot of cuddling or have been gone trhu exptensibly and the asking price shows that. The best cars seem to trade quickly and hush-hush. Not sure why.

Silver? you mean the "prototype?" do you know more?

test

for the flat spots, I dont think you can avoid them in winter. I am looking for some flatstoppers that kind of avoid the tire to rest on that single contact spot. For the installation, I have not heard of tach issues. I beleive the whole hook up is in the manual. Have not yet gone thru it. Just got the stuff today. However, the difficulty was with the trigger wheel. Chad's system needed to be modified a tiny bit to stay put during long driving. He was also concerned about the heat making parts expand a bit and move. The key from what I understand is to keep that trigger under very very tight tolerance to ensure the optimum ignition. Chad and my mechanic have spoken and I guess the next customer will get the improved trigger wheel hardware. It is not easy to install without the engine out. Mucho hours and Dineros... But the whole thing is pretty much turn key if you know what you are doing. Check the ignition thread. I posted things there. The system really works well and if the heat does not cause issue in the future, that system is now maintenance free. And i'll tell you that rebuilding a distributor is as expensive as this new system all inclusive. I know, I paid for both.. Well the new system cost me more but that is because we had to do the trigger wheel fiddling twice. The new hardware should eliminate that issue. That is really a top system.

Just got the car back! What a difference! first thing I noticed , other than starting right away, is that no more pops on deceleration. Sound seems even more aggressive. 2nd thing is that the flat spot I had around 3500 is not barely noticeable, 3rd the Marelli buzz is gone ! That was as annoying as a mosquito buzz. Finally the engine bay is even less crowded. I had a plate made to save up the rebuilt distributor.

interesting stuff. thanks! Last is a detailling job. Car is being ready but I got a driving issue to go pick it up. Will do sometimes this week. Noted some flat spots on front tires. May be I should drive a bit to have them go away? I'll take picts of all this job and post.

ah!! the money!! yeah I left quite a few feathers there... Chad, I stopped by my shop. I know the guys called you to give you feedback on the wheel setup. That was tricky for us. Also I would suggest that in your kit, you add the manufacturing of a plate cover to remove the distributor. I had to have that made. Since my distributor is entirely rebuilt I did not want it doing nothing mounted on the car and ruin the few thousand $$ it costed me to just do that. This way I am going to save my distributor and the engine bay will look cleaner. The distrib can go back in anytime since no mods were done to prevent that.

My car is still in the shop. Everytime its the same bits and ends here and there... car starts really nice now by just touching the key.. A couple of questions. Should the turn signal come back automatically on the early QV euros? I did not think so but this lists as a defect to be fixed.. I am also due for an alignment. I hknow the setup is different between the 25th with pZeros and the QV with p7s right? Now is that difference due only to the tires change or is there something different in the front end? in orther words, now that I drive on PZeros with my QV that was originally with p7s, should i use the anniversary alignment numbers ? or do I miss the point on alignment? Anyone got thoses numbers?