JonV8944s

I know its in my manual in the car, and even in my pdf manuals (on another computer). But can someone please tell me what the TRANSFER case ratio is on the 02-06 Murci (guessing prob the same on the 07+, but they also have different gear ratios, so safer if I stick with 02-06). I need this to calculate (correctly) the tire sizes I can buy for the car, sure everyone has the standard sizes figured out, but I'm getting a little creative with Summer/Winter tires, and 18 inch wheels and my other set of 19/20s. So I am trying to figure it out, becuase this winter I am going to have some modifications done to my rims to afford me sizes that others cant consider . But my company is having a friends and family sale in a few days, so I might as well at least get the tires ordered. Thanks! Jon

Be warned: http://www.lambopower.com/forum/index.php?...p;#entry1161310 Its not a matter of IF its going to happen to you, its a matter of WHEN. (This applies to 02-06 Murci RWD conversions). Factory figured it out, and improved the design on +07. If you want to do RWD, have a 07+ lp640, OR get an lp640 differential (beefed up design, less likely to have the output shaft failure) and replace your stock one with it. Just sharing the message, dont shoot me. When your output shafts break, reach out to me , I'll walk you through the expensive replacement options. (I have nothing to sell you, just guidance).

This is the exact reason I went back to AWD. I keep waiting for MORE people to start having this issue. I popped two different 'Sun gears' in the differential from this. Trust me, this is a REAL problem with the RWD setup on PRE lp640 cars. Its not IF its going to happen to you, its WHEN. Trussssst me I know. The 02-06 differentials are weakest at the 'sun gear' aka output shaft from the planetary gears. I tried in VEIN to get JUST the output shafts, but no luck, they want to send you the whole diferential carrier. I even contacted the manufacturer and they were of no help. The only fixs: 1. Replace the differential with another 02-06 murci diff, and go back to AWD, or in about a year or so, you'll break the replacement one. (This is a FUN job, not, you have to pull the whole differential out of the car.) 2. Replace the output shaft in the guts of the differential, this can be done with the differential case in the car, but you MUST remove the side covers, and back cover, and extract the carrier and ring gear (all 1 unit). go back to AWD after this, as again this fix only puts you right back at weakest link point. Ultimate solution 3. Replace the rear oem 02-06 differential with an 07+ differential (NOTICEABLY BETTER design). I have a spare one sitting on my shelf just waiting for the oem one to fail again (would be my 3rd time). But since I put it back to AWD, I am guessing I wont have this problem anymore, but buying the 07+ rear differential for $4500+ship as a spare is CHEAP insurance. I am so good about doing both those jobs, I put my skills against any lambo tech Good luck, and I tounge in cheek say "Welcome to my world." Least YOU have someone who has been there, done that... I had no one. Sadly/Happily, I can say I know this problem like the back of my hand and how to fix it.

So here is a question. What number is roughly 'end of life' for a clutch? Meaning, when I get to this X number in my egear snap, its completed its service life and needs replacement? The problem with Egear, is that once the computer decides its done, it basically wont work with you anymore right? So egear cars always run the risk of being stranded at any moment, where as a stick guy can certainly start feeling the clutch slipping? Some guidance, I'd like to get full service life of my clutch but if that means inevitably, that I will get NO warning, and can be stuck at 'any time' once I get to a certain 'wear' amount on the clutch? I'm now at 11,000+ miles on oem clutch, but my service tech told me at 10,000 that I had about 25% clutch life left. Thanks, Jon

Yes please. I'd rather just use it up, and as soon as the 'signs' start showing, then schedule its replacement, but not throw away a couple thousand miles of a clutch, when these things are only good for 10-15k miles to start with. Anyone?

All good. Not busting balls, but your car is done? Is there a formal post on it? I have to imagine at the higher power levels, the parasitic loss of AWD is nearly irrelevant and AWD would have significant advantages to putting the power down. More tread usage, the better it is to put the power down. Stock NA power levels sure RWD can manage, but at extreme power levels... sorry we dissagree again, I think DEFINITELY AWD is king. and I'm positive track times would show that as well. Anyways, link me to the post about the completion, you have dyno results and stats? (This is not ball busting, as fun as that is over you, that horse has been killed so many fcuking times now, I'd really like to just see what finally came true). Peace Jon

So here is a question. What number is roughly 'end of life' for a clutch? Meaning, when I get to this X number in my egear snap, its completed its service life and needs replacement? The problem with Egear, is that once the computer decides its done, it basically wont work with you anymore right? So egear cars always run the risk of being stranded at any moment, where as a stick guy can certainly start feeling the clutch slipping? Some guidance, I'd like to get full service life of my clutch but if that means inevitably, that I will get NO warning, and can be stuck at 'any time' once I get to a certain 'wear' amount on the clutch? I'm now at 11,000+ miles on oem clutch, but my service tech told me at 10,000 that I had about 25% clutch life left. Thanks, Jon

So here is a question. What number is roughly 'end of life' for a clutch? Meaning, when I get to this X number in my egear snap, its completed its service life and needs replacement? The problem with Egear, is that once the computer decides its done, it basically wont work with you anymore right? So egear cars always run the risk of being stranded at any moment, where as a stick guy can certainly start feeling the clutch slipping? Some guidance, I'd like to get full service life of my clutch but if that means inevitably, that I will get NO warning, and can be stuck at 'any time' once I get to a certain 'wear' amount on the clutch? I'm now at 11,000+ miles on oem clutch, but my service tech told me at 10,000 that I had about 25% clutch life left. Thanks, Jon

Just to be clear, are you counting years that your murci has been undriveable in those 9 years? Or has Stig SV Turbo Monster 2k been unleashed onto the world and driving well in its 2WD condition? I think there is fluff in your 9 years, I have only 2, but mine is a valid perspective, we certainly can dissagree (kind of a mainstay for us). And your 20,000 miles regardless of years spent aquiring them is certainly noteable (roughly double mine). But we might want to call out, that I am guessing you never had an 04-06 Murci egear car? It makes a difference. STICK cars are more 'controlable' and some of my notes wouldnt apply. also 07+ egear cars are much revised and have a different rear differential then pre 07 cars. In the end, my perspective is relative to a 04-06 Egear car, and I firmly stand by it. Thanks! Jon

Vbox and cost numbers please

Duplicate post

Thats just funny shit.... and as a fellow owner... completely know the feeling.

I got 2 brand new ones in 2013 from a lambo dealership, came directly to them from lambo, with all the oem scratch safety wrappings on them, etc , trust me, its not a 'tight fit' its a good fit, but just not tight. Its quite frankly a mediocre design. I think if they wanted to do it right they would have had two more clips in the center. Anyways hopefully the OP got it sorted out. Thanks, Jon

It should become very loose after you undue the two screws, if you did it properly. The foam he speaks of is hardly super tight seal (not busting chops at Rouleur, more so at lambo). Give me a call, I have installed and removed mine a number of times, it should be come pretty apparent its disconnected after you properly unscrew it. Thanks, Jon

So do I post it here, or do I start my own thread? I feel like it belongs here, but might be less 'pooping on Whiteouts new investment' if I did my own thread. But here goes, and if I should move it elsewhere I will. I have really hesistated and gone back and forth if I should post this, because going against the 'new hotness' sometimes gets you flammed. But here is my experience and you can take it for what its worth, coming from a guy who has been RWD for what, nearly 2 years? There are pros and cons, and now that I am back to AWD. I think I am in a better position to discuss, since the 'placibo effect' is not an issue (AWD, to RWD and back to AWD). Pro: *I have no direct data to support this, but everything I know tells me that it saves clutch life, especially in an Egear car. *When you are ROLLING, say 100 mph+ its got more 'legs' then the AWD setup. *If you like white knuck driving, turn off TCS, put it in sport mode, and roll this bitch hard, and you'll be sliding and fish tailing like a champ. If you have ever owned a Dodge Viper, you will LOVE this mode, I felt like I was finally home after doing this. * Sun days, hot tires, who needs AWD! Con: *Its choppy, the Egear doesnt know that you went to RWD and its expecting to lug the AWD system so its a little more hurky jerky when its throwing the power to just the rear wheels. *From a Dig, your going to spin if you floor it, AWD will hook and go. *You MUST turn off TCS, otherwise, expect your car to be 'shut down' by traction control system CONSTANTLY. So if you like the safety net of TCS, forget it in this setup, out the window. Because with it on, the car is worthless. *Rain, yes, we do get caught in it sometime, F THAT, you will be no where near as quick as you would be in AWD. Just this weekend, I rolled up on a Ferrari california in the rain, and made short work of him on the high way, he wasnt able to get the power down like i could. * Braking, you take a hit, I dont give a SHIT what anyone else says, if you have CCBs (ceramics), and you have the ability to overwhelm the front tires with claming force, you WILL feel ABS kicking in a LOT more, becuase its missing that extra 100lbs of front end helf that helps the front wheels have more 'down force' My GTR used to brake better then my Murci in panic situations (people cut me off all the time), but now with the front differential back in, its indescribably how amazing my murci stops. Thats still on 2006 oem Rubber. (have stock wheels and tires back on the car currently). * Putting the power down in a turn, and TCS off, is the car telling you 'hey you got this, good luck' and the rear is going to slide if your rolling hard on the power, its 'exciting' but its not quicker, exit speed is better with AWD. So I know whiteout created all those sweet ass titanium conversion stub axles, and I do not want this to come across as any type of opposition to that. I've avoided writing this, becasue I actually have a good working relationship with Whiteout, and I didn't want to affect his 'sales' for those awesome parts. So please do what you like, I support whiteout completely, after all, he is who I went to when I did my RWD conversion, and he was awesome. I am giving you one guys perspective on what it was like to BE AWD, then go RWD and then back to AWD. The true downside to AWD, is I know I pay the price with having sooner clutch replacements Otherwise I am far more fan of it now, then RWD. Thanks, Jon

Cost please?

Yes, the are interchangeable.

Since I was reminded that I had put this out, and never did the follow up dyno run, here it is: I know its old news, but figured, I'd close this one out with the update: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10200464205506978

Those LP 560s are hard to say no to, I think the 550 is not enough, as sad as that is, but If I got Gallardo, then it has to be a convertible 560/570 (570 preferred). Thanks again from my brethren, I think I'm going to go the mp4 route, now the fun of finding the right car, with the right options and color. Its nice to have a warranty too

Thanks guys. I am strongly leaning towards a convert mp4, or the lp640 roadster.

right, which is why I want another, just the newer version. I guess I'd take the looks of the murci with the performance of the c12. And yes, other then missing my ceramic brakes, you seem to have the same car as me, so I was like 'thats just wierd watching another guy driving me car' lol.

The SLR is a fantastic car, the problem is, I hear it comes with a very expensive maintenance schedule. Also i have never been a 'silver' car kinda guy, it would take like a blue or something. Plus those mini me versions they came out with a few years later, that share a similar front end (on a far less expensive version), just seems to dilute the presence of those cars in everyday use. I think its going to be a lp640 roadster or a mp4. Both meet my needs, I assume though that the mp4 is noticeably quicker then the lp640 murci, but it wont have the same presence. Honestly, need to drive both and find out which feels better, and yes, I have already driven both, but those were a few years ago.

Yes its beautiful. I saw it. Wonder if the 650s will hold their 'value' or also very shortly see the 75k+ off sticker pricing that quickly came to the mp4-12c's. I feel like the mp4-12c is at the right price point/performance for the buck right now. The 650s is nice, but its not a 100k better in my opinion.

Roy, get me either a lp640 or 12c in Blue and I'm in. Please note I have CCBs on my murci right now, and I cant fathom having another Murci without them. I know that makes it harder to get roadster, blue, and CCBs, but if its not meant to be, the MP4-12c will be it. Either car in blue is the only requirement.

Lol, been there done that.. oh wait, still doing that. Per my sig, I do have a 2013 Black Edition GTR. And the 06 Murci. I am keeping the GTR as my beater, and wanting to pick up my 'next generation' exotic. The GTR is a fantastic car, and its my second one. I hate to say it, but its a practical car for a guy like me, but now my 'exotic' is what I'm looking to upgrade. As far as UGR, I have talked to Kevin about it before, sadly, the original murci's arent really that great of a platform for boost. Plus, I like to work on my cars myself, and I worry that the complexities that the turbos add, would mean I couldnt do much on the car, except change the oil.