Late Countach clock and Panel light dimmer - repair or replacement?

Hi

 

My 1988 1/2 Countach has a faulty Veglia clock. The digits flash constantly and cannot be set. The H-M rocker switch was jammed - I repaired that but to no avail.

 

So now I'm looking for a replacement clock, or someone who can repair the unit. It has a vacuum-fluorescent display, which is obsolete technology, so no current clocks are available which could be cannibalised.

 

I'm also looking for a replacement panel light dimmer unit (rheostat).

 

I'm based in UK/Thailand/Malaysia. Any ideas please?

 

Try Eurospares. They were parting out a Jalpa. My clock in the Jalpa is the same as my Countach.

Hi

 

My 1988 1/2 Countach has a faulty Veglia clock. The digits flash constantly and cannot be set. The H-M rocker switch was jammed - I repaired that but to no avail.

 

So now I'm looking for a replacement clock, or someone who can repair the unit. It has a vacuum-fluorescent display, which is obsolete technology, so no current clocks are available which could be cannibalised.

 

I'm also looking for a replacement panel light dimmer unit (rheostat).

 

I'm based in UK/Thailand/Malaysia. Any ideas please?

 

 

As far as the dimmer light (rheostat) I would just jump it out, as the dash lights are way to dim on maximum brightness anyway.

Try Eurospares. They were parting out a Jalpa. My clock in the Jalpa is the same as my Countach.

Thanks for the idea, but I tried them first. They have no clock either on the Jalpa or on the Countach they are breaking. It's a deleted part at the factory too.

 

 

As far as the dimmer light (rheostat) I would just jump it out, as the dash lights are way to dim on maximum brightness anyway.

Yes, I agree. I have done that already - by fitting a small 'max brightness' switch next to the rheostat. But I'm a stickler for originality, so would still like to get one if possible!

Thanks for the idea, but I tried them first. They have no clock either on the Jalpa or on the Countach they are breaking. It's a deleted part at the factory too.

Yes, I agree. I have done that already - by fitting a small 'max brightness' switch next to the rheostat. But I'm a stickler for originality, so would still like to get one if possible!

 

I understand as I am that way too. Try GT parts. Best of Luck, Vic

 

GT Car Parts Inc

516 West Lone Cactus Dr.

Pheonix Arizona 85027-2912

Phone (623) 780-2200

Fax (623) 780-1200

 

 

Saw a clock on Ebay once.... Mine is never on either but since it's so hideous

I figure if it's inop it's harder to notice.

Saw a clock on Ebay once.... Mine is never on either but since it's so hideous

I figure if it's inop it's harder to notice.

As far as the dimmer light (rheostat) I would just jump it out, as the dash lights are way to dim on maximum brightness anyway.

+1, I had mine removed, now the panel is much brighter, one thing less which can break...

+1, I had mine removed, now the panel is much brighter, one thing less which can break...

 

 

You can also switch to LED dash bulbs which plug into the existing bulb holders. They run cooler and are much brighter than the originals. They are also available in a variety of colours, if your so inclined.

You can also switch to LED dash bulbs which plug into the existing bulb holders. They run cooler and are much brighter than the originals. They are also available in a variety of colours, if your so inclined.

Good idea. I've changed all the other lamps on the car to LEDs, and the useless headlamps to HID units (see below for comparison!), but couldn't source the little bi-pin lamps which fit the dash instruments and switches in LED form (yet).

 

Any ideas of a supplier please?

 

It's certainly worthwhile changing to LED since, as you say, they run cool. There's much less heating of the plastics, which seems to be the primary cause of age-related failure of plastic components in old cars.

 

 

There are several LED lights that are manufactured that will work I'm sure. The bulb is a 194 wh (white).

I will pm you a web site for the company that manufactured mine in case you don't have a local source.

 

Just remember....... unlike regular bulbs, polarity counts with LED lights. ( If you install them backwards, they will not light up, so test them before you put them back into the holder.)

 

Best of luck.

I've changed all the other lamps on the car to LEDs, and the useless headlamps to HID units

 

Could you tell me where you got these? Did you just change the bulb or the whole light? And do they require different wiring? My headlights are almost useless above 50mph unless there is street lighting.

 

Thanks,

 

Tom

Could you tell me where you got these? Did you just change the bulb or the whole light? And do they require different wiring? My headlights are almost useless above 50mph unless there is street lighting.

Thanks,

Tom

Hi Tom

I agree, the original Countach lights are useless!

 

These are a standard HID upgrade kit, available from most car accessory suppliers. You get two discharge lamps and two ballast/driver units, so you need to buy two sets if you want to replace both main and dipped beam.

 

The ballast units fit nicely on the metal shelves under the retractable headlamp housings.

 

The wiring is straightforward, but as usual in the Countach, the original relays are a bit overloaded and run hot, so I suggest you do as I did and replace all the headlamp and flasher relays and lighting wiring, run directly from the battery binding post in the front compartment. I fitted a plastic electrical box which holds six relays and fuses.

 

However, this is a Lamborghini, so there’s a big ‘BUT’ coming!!

 

HID lamps are quite long, so when fitted into the original Garelli lamp units, the rear of the lamp terminals fouls the back of the headlamp housing. Fully tightening the lamp support ring would break the lamp!

 

So I took a Dremel and very carefully ground away the insulation from around the wires, bent the wires sideways, then encapsulated the bent assembly with epoxy. This lash-up shortens the lamp, allowing it to fit. See pictures.

 

So far, they have lasted for six months with no problems.

 

Hi Tom

I agree, the original Countach lights are useless!

 

These are a standard HID upgrade kit, available from most car accessory suppliers. You get two discharge lamps and two ballast/driver units, so you need to buy two sets if you want to replace both main and dipped beam.

 

The ballast units fit nicely on the metal shelves under the retractable headlamp housings.

 

The wiring is straightforward, but as usual in the Countach, the original relays are a bit overloaded and run hot, so I suggest you do as I did and replace all the headlamp and flasher relays and lighting wiring, run directly from the battery binding post in the front compartment. I fitted a plastic electrical box which holds six relays and fuses.

 

However, this is a Lamborghini, so there’s a big ‘BUT’ coming!!

 

HID lamps are quite long, so when fitted into the original Garelli lamp units, the rear of the lamp terminals fouls the back of the headlamp housing. Fully tightening the lamp support ring would break the lamp!

 

So I took a Dremel and very carefully ground away the insulation from around the wires, bent the wires sideways, then encapsulated the bent assembly with epoxy. This lash-up shortens the lamp, allowing it to fit. See pictures.

 

So far, they have lasted for six months with no problems.

 

Thanks Jingjok, that's really useful.