Clutch removed, wondering about resurfacing

I've removed the transmission and detached the pressure plate and clutch. Looks like it might all need to be resurfaced by ClutchMasters. One thing that I'm not sure about is the clutch itself seems to have a crack in it on one side of the material (not the thin metal disk, but the coating/lining that's on both surfaces of the metal; one side of that lining has a crack that goes from the outer edge to the inner edge). Does that disk need to be replaced completely, or can it be resurfaced?

 

Transmission removal was a fairly easy one-man job, using a hoist to balance the weight. I bet reassembly will take two people.

 

Ended up deciding to buy a brand new kevlar clutch from Hi Tech Exotics. I'll install and keep you guys posted on how it goes.

What did the new clutch end up costing you?

From the look of your trans I would recommend to replace the radial seal around the out put shaft that goes to the rear diff. It looks wet. It is cheep and easy to replace at this time. Its the splined female shaft toward the bottom.

From the look of your trans I would recommend to replace the radial seal around the out put shaft that goes to the rear diff. It looks wet. It is cheep and easy to replace at this time. Its the splined female shaft toward the bottom.

@Jeff -- having trouble finding that part on websites. Do you know where I could get the part?

 

@AKA cartman -- I'll post photos and more details after I receive it. Right now, the seller's not exactly on my high-trust list, given that he told me he sells around 50 of those units a year. A bit hard for me to believe, when total Diablo production numbers were around 200 a year. But we'll see.

@Jeff -- having trouble finding that part on websites. Do you know where I could get the part?

 

@AKA cartman -- I'll post photos and more details after I receive it. Right now, the seller's not exactly on my high-trust list, given that he told me he sells around 50 of those units a year. A bit hard for me to believe, when total Diablo production numbers were around 200 a year. But we'll see.

 

 

 

They don't only make Kevlar clutches for Diablo.They also make them for Murcielago and Gallardo.

having trouble finding that part on websites. Do you know where I could get the part?

 

You can always call Lino or Carlo at Alpha of Tacoma.

@Jeff -- having trouble finding that part on websites. Do you know where I could get the part?

 

Call any SKF dealer, skf 562965

 

List for about $4.00

 

 

Call any SKF dealer, skf 562965

List for about $4.00

The oil seal on the driveshaft is 36mm x 52mm x 7mm (ID, OD, thickness). SKF 562965 is that exact size... however, 562965 is not high-temperature ("Viton"), so it tops out at something over 100 degrees Celcius. Note that the OEM part is Viton, which takes you up to around 315 degrees C.

 

A local industrial seal vendor suggested that I stay with Viton, which is usually brown instead of black rubber. Note that the same seals using Viton cost around $20, whereas a non-Viton seal is indeed around $4.

 

I went with a Viton seal, and will install it this weekend. Thanks again to @limey for giving the SKF number, which helped me get the exact dimensions needed! I just wanted to highlight that you might want to go with a Viton-based seal of the same measurements in order to be absolutely certain that the seal won't degrade fast at higher temps.

The oil seal on the driveshaft is 36mm x 52mm x 7mm (ID, OD, thickness). SKF 562965 is that exact size... however, 562965 is not high-temperature ("Viton"), so it tops out at something over 100 degrees Celcius. Note that the OEM part is Viton, which takes you up to around 315 degrees C.

 

A local industrial seal vendor suggested that I stay with Viton, which is usually brown instead of black rubber. Note that the same seals using Viton cost around $20, whereas a non-Viton seal is indeed around $4.

 

I went with a Viton seal, and will install it this weekend. Thanks again to @limey for giving the SKF number, which helped me get the exact dimensions needed! I just wanted to highlight that you might want to go with a Viton-based seal of the same measurements in order to be absolutely certain that the seal won't degrade fast at higher temps.

 

What is that apart number and who's the maker of it?

What is that apart number and who's the maker of it?

I've added some photos of the Viton seals, in case it helps. The top-left one is the original oil seal that I removed from the exit shaft of the transmission; the one under it is the new seal. Note that all of these are Viton seals and gaskets, which means they'll be far more heat resistant. If you remove a seal from your engine and it seems to have hardened or melted a little, put a Viton seal in and it'll do much better. They can take almost double the heat of the regular black rubber gaskets.

 

 

@RHershey -- I'm not sure the part number and brand actually matter, though I've enclosed the original packaging for you in case it helps. The most important things are: 36mm x 52mm x 7mm, and Viton. Most industrial oil seal shops will be able to source you the right seal, and Viton's something like DuPont product so it'll all be about 4x as much as regular seals. However, compared with the parts from Lambo direct, even Viton seals are considered a steal.

I ended up buying a new Kevlar clutch from Hi Tech Exotics. Photos below. You'll note that almost any new clutch will look great next to the original worn ones.

 

 

Hi Tech essentially buys a new OEM balanced clutch kit and then refinishes it with Kevlar and rebalances it. Don't be fooled by the shipping: the Lambo crate looks great and all, but the materials were packed so poorly inside that the pressure plate and the flywheel came apart from one another (they weren't screwed together at all) and ended up scratching each other. Fortunately, the damage seemed mostly cosmetic. But one would expect when buying something for several thousand dollars that the sellers would invest, say, $0.50 in a few screws to keep things together.

 

In fairness to the seller, he claimed that they used to secure the whole assembly with screws, but that the screws would get bent and damaged during shipping. Hmmm. Regardless of what you think of that claim, they were decent enough to refund me $100 for the damage.

 

I will report back on how the Kevlar clutch feels once I actually drive this thing. I'd also like to do a comparison with a ClutchMaster-finished Kevlar clutch -- if any of you have that, and live near Seattle, PM me.

Kevlar is the way to go in the Diablo... worked great in my 94.