Allan-Herbie Report post Posted May 28, 2012 Yesterday, for some reason my lift system decided not to work at all in the morning.. Then after I drove for abit, shut car off to get some Starbucks, it decided to work again. Upon arrival to my house, I hit the button and nothing, and then it just shot straightup instantly. Any ideas? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
IlToro Report post Posted May 29, 2012 Not allot. I know that air can get in there. Checked the reservoir level? Also that there are upper and lower limit switches that could be intermittent. I believe they work in unison with the dash lights, so no light, no switch activation. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoky Report post Posted May 29, 2012 If you've got no lift warning lights, and no leaks, then just manually flush the system using the valve located behind the carpet liner under the rear wall of the front boot (trunk). I have step-by-step instructions that I can send to you if you want to try this yourself. You just need a rubber hose from Home Depot, a bucket, a wrench, and replacement p/s fluid. Takes about 10 mins to do right. Check for leaks under the distribution block where the switches mount, which is located beneath the passenger-side airbox (that's where it was on the Murci...yours may be a little different, but prob not by much). Check for leaks on the front shocks. Look for "runs" or drips running along the underbody from front-to-rear. Peace Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
IlToro Report post Posted May 29, 2012 How bout posting the instruction for all to see. Sounds like a valuable instruction. Heck Shamile didn't even tackle it. I'll bet most cars never get it changed even under the guises of "full fluid service" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoky Report post Posted May 29, 2012 Credit goes to a fellow named Sergio from German Exotic Auto Care, who helped guide me through this process. Of course, I take no responsibility from use of these instructions. Use at your own risk. They worked for me. The workflow is overall for replacing the switches, but some sub-steps may prove useful for other tasks or diagnostics (such as bleeding the system, refilling, and auto-purging). Common problems that causes the vehicle not raise are the following: - Low Power Steering (P/S) fluid level. (Total P/S system takes 2.7 liters) - Leak from one or both front struts - Leak from the supply line - Failing Minimum/Maximum Switches Open engine lid Remove rear exhaust grille and passenger side engine panel. *Careful with all the screws which are being removed as they are stainless steel from Factory and don't magnetize. Step 1. Inspect and verify Power Steering (P/S) reservoir is at full level when suspension is down. Step 2. Inspect vehicle for any leaks from the front struts or supply line. If no leaks are present, proceed to step 3. Step 3. Remove air cleaner box completely to access the hydraulic lifting unit where the valves are covered by a rubber boot with wiring. Mark the wires as they can be mixed up and switched around. Step 4. Adjust the Maximum switch by turning the screw three turns clockwise then test to see if vehicle is maintained in the raised position. If raised position is not achieved, adjust once more and retest. If raised position is not achieved proceed to replace both "Min/Max" switches. Procedure to replace the valves: Step 5. Remove the trunk wall liner panel that holds the light by folding the top part of the carpet downwards to expose three screws or bolts on the upper part that hold it in place. Step 6. Pull panel completely and search for the bleeder valve in the center. Step 7. Plug the bleeder with a rubber tube going to a container to release the pressurized fluid on to. Step 8. Open bleeder valve SLOWLY AND ONLY ABOUT A QUARTER TURN until no more fluid is extracted, then close the valve. * This releases most of the pressure but many occasions there is still residual pressure at the valves. Step 9. Unscrew the Switches slowly so that if any pressure is present, it will slowly leak out on to the chassis. Inspect seals and replace if any slight tear is on them, I had the seal fail with a minute tear on the rubber portion. Step 10. Fill the P/S system with Dexron III type of Automatic Transmission Fluid and operate the lifting system three times. *First few tries the vehicle will not raise due to the air in the system. When it works properly, it is purged. Go ahead and cycle the lift a few more times just to fully purge. Step 11. Lower the suspension and inspect P/S fluid level and top off. Check for leaks. Continue to perform the self-bleed sequence this way. If at anytime you still have air in the system you can manually purge the system as described in page 29 of the attached file. When complete, wipe everything down real good (though p/s fluid is not corrosive, it is still nasty to leave around, and sitnks). Reinstall all your panels, airboxes, tubes, boot covers, screws, etc. Hopefully that sorts it out. Once it is fixed, never use it again so it stays fixed. :-) 19_Suspension_and_Steering.pdf Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allan-Herbie Report post Posted May 29, 2012 Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allan-Herbie Report post Posted June 15, 2012 Damn lift system is still acting up. Prior to the belt breaking I checked the power steering fluid and it was full. when the belt broke I had hoped that maybe the power steering belt was slipping and it wasnt get enough power to the system. I found out my car has the Lamboweb mod, where they bypass the minimum level. It seems to work sometimes, and sometimes it doesnt do anything.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lambo128 Report post Posted June 15, 2012 I believe All the systems get thier voltage through a relay.......when the problem is intermitent..it is very possible it is a weak relay that provides the voltage Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allan-Herbie Report post Posted June 16, 2012 I believe All the systems get thier voltage through a relay.......when the problem is intermitent..it is very possible it is a weak relay that provides the voltage A mechanic I know suggested it would be a lose wire somewhere.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kerplop Report post Posted June 16, 2012 Do you have any pictures of the wiring diagram for the system? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allan-Herbie Report post Posted June 18, 2012 Started the car up yesterday to let it run for abit and see if the lift works.. Upon starting the car the lift was inoperable, but then after running a little while, there it was all good and ready to go... What a pain in the ass! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allan-Herbie Report post Posted June 18, 2012 Do you have any pictures of the wiring diagram for the system? I dont. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chipster Report post Posted June 18, 2012 Bad ground maybe or wiring. I doubt a relay. Tracing those wires is a pain. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
IlToro Report post Posted June 18, 2012 I understand the obsession to get it working, but is it mandatory? I just had one of my shocks rebuilt and am still too scared to use the damn thing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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