Left bank down, no spark, running on 6 cylinder

Here is mine

 

 

 

Thanks Chipster! Yours also nicely installed, easy access too should they ever need removed. Think it's safe to say, mine were not correct.

 

Interesting to see that you guys have some differences compared to UK/euro models, just below the red throttle sensor, your car has a slightly different setup.

 

Polished pipes look nice!

Thanks Chipster! Yours also nicely installed, easy access too should they ever need removed. Think it's safe to say, mine were not correct.

 

Interesting to see that you guys have some differences compared to UK/euro models, just below the red throttle sensor, your car has a slightly different setup.

 

Polished pipes look nice!

 

Thanks! It is pretty interesting to see all the differences! I'm going to be pulling the engine in the near future so I'm going to clean it up in there and do some other little cosmetic changes.

 

 

 

 

I received the new distributor and rotor today, and my local auto store were able to source me new HT leads at very cheap money, not as good as OEM leads but handy as a backup set.

 

Anyway I installed everything, but no joy, still running on 1-6.

 

 

If it's one bank on, one bank off, my bet would be that one of the coils failed though

 

Your coils are on the left hand side, just behind the air scoop, under the fender

 

 

Im now wondering is the fault maybe what Simon mentioned? Is there a PROPER way to test if one is down?

 

I put the spark tester in both ignition modulus and cranked the car, they didnt show the same series of blinks, the left one with WHITE tag basically blinked continuously, pretty much like testing the spark plug leads, the right one with YELLOW tag, did one initial big blink then very random one or two more.

Got the bank up and running, turned out to be a break in a little wire thats connected to one of the plugs, for the phase sensor. Shoud have know better as the car was running fine until I did the water pump and thermostat, and to remove the thermostat I had to unplug the 2 phase sensor connectors, must have broken then.

 

Have to say thanks to Mike Pullen for pointing me to the connectors, he mentioned seeing these wires break in the past.

 

Thanks also for everyone else's advise, also helpful and good for future reference

 

All this for one little wire lol, well at least I have some backup parts now, plus those HT leads were real bad anyway.

 

 

Now I have another issue lol, the exhaust tip on the 7-12 bank is going very black, smell of fuel and the car isnt running 100% smooth, slight misses when accelerating.

Diablo is back up and running perfect!!! WOO HOO!!

 

Turned out to be another simple little wire problem.

 

 

 

So to recap, the problem with my car running on 6 cylinders wasnt ANYTHING to do do with coils, HT leads, Distributor, Rotor, Ignition module etc etc

 

That problem was basically down to a single wire that was broken at one of the 2 plugs for the phase sensor, these are 2 pin connectors and the plug is white color.

 

 

 

After I repaired this plug the next issue was the car was running rich the 7-12 bank, heavy fuel smell and exhaust turned black.

 

 

This also turned out to be the wires on the 2 pin connector, that goes to the blue coolant temp sensor on top of the thermostat housing

 

These are the 2 wires than came away from the plug, I have the female end removed in the pic

 

 

Just putting in new pins and cable and solder the wires back up

 

Always nice to be a simple fix!

Always nice to be a simple fix!

 

 

 

Yeah, its not something you would easily guess or think about either, look at all the stuff I changed, checked over, diagnosed, and it turned out to be 2 wires lol, very easy for these small wires to break now, especially with age.

 

At least I have the spares now to keep in the car for emergencies.

 

It would certinaly be good, to keep some spare AMP connectors with wire already attached in the car too, this way if a wire broke while out driving, you can do a quick repair to the car and get it up running safely again.

 

Mike Pullen also told me that, the wires on the green AMP connectors, on the injectors, are also prone to breakage.

 

 

So my next question is, do to guys know of any good source for good quality HT leads, with the correct retaining rings and the cap that goes over the spark plug well?

I know member AB on here a while back used to make a set of spark plug wires but I'm not sure what all that entailed and if he still does. I would imagine Evan's Auto does too I think.

I'm just impressed it was running smoothly on those leads and distributor cap & rotor for so long. My distributor starts wheezing if it gets a booger in it.

I know member AB on here a while back used to make a set of spark plug wires but I'm not sure what all that entailed and if he still does. I would imagine Evan's Auto does too I think.

 

Is there a link to Evans HT leads Chipster?

I'm just impressed it was running smoothly on those leads and distributor cap & rotor for so long. My distributor starts wheezing if it gets a booger in it.

 

I'm amazed myself! lol. Was running perfect with those old bits.

 

I fitted a new rotor, but put the OEM cap back on, the NEW replacement [Jaguar/Pattern part] is no where near as good a quality as the OEM one. The OEM one is made of a very VERY strong compressed rubber [i think]

 

The Jaguar type cap is just plastic, and doesn't feel great quality in my hand, the weight of the two are significantly different as well, you can feel the quality in the OEM one.

 

I refurbished the pins and connection points in the OEM one, removed all the corrosion and cleaned the tips, so far so good!

Sudesh I'm not sure if there is a link. You would probably have to call Evan's Automotive in Ohio, US and ask.

I am happy that you found all of the problems and that they was a easy fix ( it's always easy after you find the problem)LOL. It sure is nice when you get it to run good and you don't spend a ton of money.

After cleaning the cap down the pins and terminals looked good

 

 

I also noticed there was no seal on the old cap when I removed it, so before putting the cap back on I installed a new OEM seal.

 

 

I installed 2 new temp sensors while I was doing the water pump and thermostat install

 

Some of the new AMP connectors arrived, so going to replace the temporary fix I did earlier. The connectors came complete with pins, rubber wire seals and the rubber boot, however you could reuse the old boot as some are an angled type rather than straight.

 

So the symptoms continues lol

 

Had the car out yesterday for a good run, testing my straight exhaust system and new bits I installed recently.

 

Well turned out, not long into the journey, the car just didn't feel right, dropping real low on the revs with lumpy idle. So as I repaired all the broken wires I mentioned in this thread, I though it might be the test pipes. I swapped the test pipes out today back to the original setup, but no change, car still hunting through the revs and a smell of fuel,

 

I then checked the red TPS sensor, it's a 3 pin AMP connector too and 1 of those wires was also broken, so I repaired that, but there wasn't much of a change, revs were slightly better, but still rough idle and hunting the revs.

 

I once again rechecked EVERYTHING lol, all connections good, and the rest is NEW.

 

What is strange is, I dint get any check lights on the dash?

 

Anyway I ran the multi-meter on the 02 sensors, left one reads 4.5ohms, Right one is dead, not a single thing.

 

So I'm guessing this has to be the issue this time lol.

 

Anybody else able to tell me some of the symptoms with these cars an O2 failure?

Need to add that

 

An O2 failure would always throw a light. Are you sure both lights are working? Also, I mentioned before about the fuel system. Sure you have no leaks? Fuel pump, filters, even fuel pressure, don't ask me how to check.

 

I was checking the volts too, of the 02 sensors, and they don't read anywhere near the same as each other.

 

The OHM reading I mentioned was taken from the 2 white wires which I believe are for the 02 heater. So one sensor is showing some reading, the other isn't.

 

The black wire, which is a spade connector type, is the important one I believe.

 

In volts, the left sensor reads anywhere from .010 to .800 with some revs, flicks quickly through a huge amount of ranges

 

Right sensor reads .010 to .200 and that's about it, doesn't really move with a few revs.

Another update

 

If I remove the HT lead, from the coil to the cap for bank 7-12, the car runs very nicely and quite smooth on bank 1-6

 

However if I test the opposite side in the same manner, the car will not run on 7-12

 

Ive also double checked and the coil is good.

Tested the coils

Swapped the LIE computers again

Tested the ignition modules

Checked all injectors are clicking

Checked all connections are good

Tested the phase sensors

Checked for spark

I have brand new plugs fitted

 

So could it possibly be an O2 sensor? The 02 sensor for the 7-12 header, switches constantly on the multimeter reading, the 1-6 bank doesn't move in the same manner at all.

 

When the car is running on 6-12 it's perfect, but as soon as bank 7-12 is introduced, the whole things just runs awful, won't hold a nice steady rev, splutters allot, sound like it's going to die out and so on.

 

 

I should add, that 7-12 will run on its own, but it's not smooth and requires some revs to keep it running, if 7-12 is left to idle the car will eventually die out.

You could try swapping the O2 sensors but you might as well just replace them to be safe. I think that could be the issue

You could try swapping the O2 sensors but you might as well just replace them to be safe. I think that could be the issue

 

Yeah I'm going to order those tomorrow, I really hope that's the issue as I dint know what else it could be.

 

Are the o2 sensors the same for all years?

 

I found Bosch part number, 0 258 003 957, and they look the same as mine with OEM connectors. The old sensors will more than likely be a pain to remove too, usually frozen up.

New 02 sensors installed, but still no change.

 

Fuel smell from left exhaust but right exhaust is ok.

 

The only thing I could thing of with fuel smell would be if an injector was stuck open. Hope you can figure it out soon.

The only thing I could thing of with fuel smell would be if an injector was stuck open. Hope you can figure it out soon.

 

I'm not giving up, but really thinking of taking up whiskey drinking lol, and I don't drink!

 

Pulled the spark plugs and the tips are white on both banks, that usually indicates running lean, so thinking fuel pressure regulator? I disconnected the fuels lines, just after the 2 filters under the coolant tank, tested to make sure fuel was coming through and it seems ok there.