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Diablo shifter spring repair guide.


Jag_lars
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My Diablo suddenly lost its riffle like precise gear shifter feel on a recent drive. The car shifts fine, but the tight and nice feel is lost and the stick would rattle against the shifter gates at certain rpms.

You can feel the problem with the car just sitting in neutral. If your gear stick can be moved, even just very little, around the neutral feel, without it not returning back to center (neutral) position on its own, then you might have a broken spring in the shifter control tower (or worn bushings)

 

 

I remember 2 others Diablos I have tried, with the same problem, and I would expect that some owners drive around, not knowing any better, with a sloppy shifter feel.

This applies to all 2wd, SE30, VT, SV Roadster GT and 6.0. Note that 6.0 use a different spring, which might be updated (?)

 

 

Part No. 002429160 - all diablos except 6.0

Part No. 0024005155 – 6.0

 

Depending on mileage and consider to replace these parts as well.

 

Dust pad Part No. 002431969

Bushing axial 2 x Part No. 002433020

Shifter bushing Part No. 002427207 (not used on very early 2wd cars)

 

 

The procedure to remove the tower is as follows:

 

- Remove the shifter knob and gate from inside the car.

-Remove front longitudinal undercarriage cover plate

- With a marker make a reference for the tower alignment on the brace. I used the hole in the brace to draw circle. Not strictly necessary, but nice for alignment reference when doing the reassembly.

- Remove the lower bracing bolts that support the control tower. 4 x 13mm bolts (wrench width).

Remember to note how the spacers plates between the brace and chassis are arrange on your car.

-Remove the upper 22mm support bolt nut, and pull the bolt out. 2 spacers for the mount will come out as well.

- Remove the 6 x 10mm nuts the holds the brace to the transmission front.

-Unplug the reverse light trigger cable

- Remove the 4 x 13mm bolts the holds the shifter console to the brace.

- Move the brace forward and down.

- With the shifter console hanging down from the car, remove the foam block on top, (held on with tape or adhesive), remove the 4 x umbraco bolts on top, to split the case and remove from car.

(Alternatively you can disconnect the linkage to the tower, and split the case on your work bench, but this requires readjusting the linkage after assembly.)

-With the case split remove the 2 bolts the holds the inside cover to the top console cover.

- Pry of the bushing on the end of the gear stick- and remove the (broken) spring.

-Clean all parts and reassembly with all parts greased up.

- Also remove the plug and spring in the inside cover, by removing the snap ring. Re grease and reassemble.

 

I use Redline CV 2 grease for this job.

 

Reassemble in reverse order, and enjoy your restored tight gear feel.

 

I assume no liability for the above instruction. This is only a guide.

 

sketch_shifter_zps55283019.png

 

bracesketch_zps373f06c7.jpg

 

brokenspring_zps6fa05f61.jpg

 

table_zps97ccc81d.jpg

 

3_zps13f98b71.jpg

 

regreased_zps0241042b.jpg

 

regreased2_zpsc396e0d6.jpg

 

pad_zpsf8e01e5f.jpg

 

padinplace2_zps4f3528b9.jpg

 

done_zpsd12dc08a.jpg

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Outstanding write up, thanks for sharing! When the spring broke, would the shifter in neutral actually flop around or was it just not returning to center? Did you do this with the car on a lift or did you jack one side and squeeze under?

 

I haven't noticed any vibrations within the gate except for 5th gear which seems to have a very slight vibe through the shifter, but nothing that would make it rattle around.

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I am not sure I see the point in the titanium shifter? If you like a shorter throw, replacing the long stock knob with ball type is great. I did that, and like the feel.

If your stick snaps, you either need to look at your transmission or driving skillls, imo.

 

I used 2 stands in the front of the car, and that is OK for acess.

 

With the car in neutral the stick should feel rather stiff. If you select a gear (engine off), and you are able to move the stick forward and backwards, and up and down, check your spring.

The car is fully drivable with a broken spring, but the tight feel is lost.

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  • 8 months later...
I am not sure I see the point in the titanium shifter? If you like a shorter throw, replacing the long stock knob with ball type is great. I did that, and like the feel.

If your stick snaps, you either need to look at your transmission or driving skillls, imo.

 

I used 2 stands in the front of the car, and that is OK for acess.

 

With the car in neutral the stick should feel rather stiff. If you select a gear (engine off), and you are able to move the stick forward and backwards, and up and down, check your spring.

The car is fully drivable with a broken spring, but the tight feel is lost.

 

Just want to add that my shaft snapped, and besides my super human albino strength, it was because the master cyl had failed.

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Just want to add that my shaft snapped, and besides my super human albino strength, it was because the master cyl had failed.

 

 

 

O My Gosh.....Super Human ALBINO strength.............. You Rock..........

 

 

lol..............

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  • 2 weeks later...
How long did this procedure take, roughly?

 

I would say it could be done in an hour if you had a 4 post lift. Most of my time was getting the car jacked up and then delays just due to my limited space underneath. Definitely can knock it out in a day worst case.

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