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> Replace your Nose Lift Return Line
del mar
post Dec 20 2016, 06:45 AM
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QUOTE (Stimpy @ Dec 19 2016, 07:12 PM) *
Did you go with OEM on the long hose, or did you have something made up, preferably more substantial than the OEM hose?

I would like to replace all the hoses in the lift system, and that totals around $2500 for not-so-great OEM, and I am sure much better hoses can be fab'd for much less.

If you had some fab'd, can you share how you went about doing that?



I had the long one made up locally - £125. It was wet and sticky the hoses to the shocks were dry and looked ok so did not change them.

Let me know when you are going to do it and I will give some pointers, not actually that hard when you know which bits to remove. !!

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Stimpy
post Dec 20 2016, 12:57 PM
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QUOTE (del mar @ Dec 20 2016, 08:45 AM) *
I had the long one made up locally - £125. It was wet and sticky the hoses to the shocks were dry and looked ok so did not change them.

Let me know when you are going to do it and I will give some pointers, not actually that hard when you know which bits to remove. !!


The lines to the shock look ok on mine too, but while I am at it, I would replace them as well. I have heard of someone having the hose from the bleed nipple to the accumulator in the left front wheel well burst on them, so I would do that one also for completeness.

Yes, please share any and all of your tips and tricks! I am planning to do these hoses soon. I have heard that you are better to take of the wheel well liner in the right rear wheel to get the hose off on that end. Is that what you did?

Were you able to take the long hose out as a complete unit, or did you have to cut it into sections to thread it out? And did you follow the exact route of the original hose, or take an alternate routing?


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2004 6-speed manual, yellow/black
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kbliew
post Dec 21 2016, 07:41 PM
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QUOTE (Stimpy @ Dec 20 2016, 12:57 PM) *
The lines to the shock look ok on mine too, but while I am at it, I would replace them as well. I have heard of someone having the hose from the bleed nipple to the accumulator in the left front wheel well burst on them, so I would do that one also for completeness.

Yes, please share any and all of your tips and tricks! I am planning to do these hoses soon. I have heard that you are better to take of the wheel well liner in the right rear wheel to get the hose off on that end. Is that what you did?

Were you able to take the long hose out as a complete unit, or did you have to cut it into sections to thread it out? And did you follow the exact route of the original hose, or take an alternate routing?


You might have bought my friend's murci if u got it from CA. There are not many yellow 04 manual murci in the US. i have exactly the same car as urs. Mine is 04 yellow and manual too. we went for a drive 2-3 years ago and the long hose of his murci burst. It was a scary scene, smoke all over the engine but luckily it didn't cause a fire. The shorter return hose of my murci burst 3 years ago too. So im thinking of changing the lose hose asap. If ur car is indeed my friend's former murci then urs is already a new hose.
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Stimpy
post Dec 21 2016, 08:05 PM
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QUOTE (kbliew @ Dec 21 2016, 09:41 PM) *
You might have bought my friend's murci if u got it from CA. There are not many yellow 04 manual murci in the US. i have exactly the same car as urs. Mine is 04 yellow and manual too. we went for a drive 2-3 years ago and the long hose of his murci burst. It was a scary scene, smoke all over the engine but luckily it didn't cause a fire. The shorter return hose of my murci burst 3 years ago too. So im thinking of changing the lose hose asap. If ur car is indeed my friend's former murci then urs is already a new hose.


I got mine from McLaren Philadelphia and they said they bought as a lot of 15 Lambos from a private collection. And that collector had mine in PA for 10 years.

I am going to have to replace it sad.gif

So many hoses to change on this car, and so little time!

I finally got that radiator hose replaced tonight that is above the transmission and runs right by the exhaust manifold. Brilliant design. They so easily could have made that a longer metal pipe with an easy to reach connection for the ruber hose.

The Italians worked hard to make these jobs next to impossible so you suffer a Lambo amount to get them done.


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del mar
post Jan 4 2017, 02:34 AM
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QUOTE (Stimpy @ Dec 20 2016, 08:57 PM) *
The lines to the shock look ok on mine too, but while I am at it, I would replace them as well. I have heard of someone having the hose from the bleed nipple to the accumulator in the left front wheel well burst on them, so I would do that one also for completeness.

Yes, please share any and all of your tips and tricks! I am planning to do these hoses soon. I have heard that you are better to take of the wheel well liner in the right rear wheel to get the hose off on that end. Is that what you did?

Were you able to take the long hose out as a complete unit, or did you have to cut it into sections to thread it out? And did you follow the exact route of the original hose, or take an alternate routing?



I have a 4 post lift so can work underneath it.

Connect a pipe to the bleed nipple in the front boot and then undo it to remove the fluid that is under pressure, then you can remove the long hose - I didn't and it spurts out all over the place...

You then just feed / pull it out.

It is zip tied along the transmission tunnel at various hard to reach places - it was fitted before the engine and transmission. There were a couple of zip ties above the gearbox that I couldn't get to so yes I cut the hose in half. It was a pig to cut through. You need to cut the banjo connector off the end as this bit wont go through the zip tie.

The rear half is then fed up under the heat shield by the exhaust.

It then goes under the coolant tank, through the metal bracket on the fuel filters. I moved the coolant tank to the side, but you don't need to remove it. As it goes through the metal bracket on the fuel filters you need to feed it through it wont lift out. The air box needs to come out as it runs behind this.

I tried for hours to get a spanner on the bolt connecting it to the pump - a real pig of a job.

Or

You can remove the wheel and wheel arch liner and the bolt is right there infront of you, undone in seconds.

You then need to re fit.

I worked back to front.

The tricky areas were getting the full length through the fuel filter bracket and down by the exhaust- the hose doesn't flex that well and you need to make sure that it is not under excessive stress when routed. Refit the heat shield.

I found that pushing a piece of wire past the transmission and then hooking the wire around the banjo connector allowed me to pull it through. Zip tie it where you can.

Feeding it back into the front boot compartment was hassle as there is a lot in the way, but again a bit of wire allows you to pull it through.

Not a had job once you remove the rear wheel - a real pig if you don't.

Let me know if you get stuck.
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Stimpy
post Jan 4 2017, 06:50 AM
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Awesome, thanks Del Mar!

Sounds like a good time to change the fuel filters while I am in there.


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2004 6-speed manual, yellow/black
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Camel Toe Juice
post Jan 10 2017, 01:54 AM
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On another note, I called quite a few automotive place telling them my problem after the local lambo dealer quoted my $450 for the replacement hose. They referred me to a company that rebuilds old hoses on cars. Must be a big business as they wanted over $200 to rebuild the same hose Whiteout bought for $3 at the local spot.




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I roll with a 63 Vespa GS 150 and that is all I need to be happy.
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Stimpy
post Jan 11 2017, 07:57 PM
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QUOTE (Camel Toe Juice @ Jan 10 2017, 03:54 AM) *
On another note, I called quite a few automotive place telling them my problem after the local lambo dealer quoted my $450 for the replacement hose. They referred me to a company that rebuilds old hoses on cars. Must be a big business as they wanted over $200 to rebuild the same hose Whiteout bought for $3 at the local spot.


Is that $200 to do the work to replace the hose, or $200 just for the hose? I could see $200 to replace the hose, especially if they are going to bleed the system with fresh fluid after changing the hose. The hose isn't much fun to change if you still have the front diff in place.


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Camel Toe Juice
post Jan 13 2017, 01:23 AM
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Im assuming there is a big market for restoring old car hoses that are out of production. That was just to "rebuild" the hose, not installation.


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I roll with a 63 Vespa GS 150 and that is all I need to be happy.
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yellomurci
post Jan 13 2017, 08:35 AM
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QUOTE (Camel Toe Juice @ Jan 13 2017, 04:23 AM) *
Im assuming there is a big market for restoring old car hoses that are out of production. That was just to "rebuild" the hose, not installation.


That must be for a pressurized hose with crimped end fittings, the front one that is mentioned is just a length of straight hose with worm drive clamps by the looks of it?
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Stimpy
post Jan 13 2017, 03:46 PM
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QUOTE (yellomurci @ Jan 13 2017, 10:35 AM) *
That must be for a pressurized hose with crimped end fittings, the front one that is mentioned is just a length of straight hose with worm drive clamps by the looks of it?


Yea, which hose are we talking about? If it's long hose from front to back, $450 is a great price for OEM, and $200 is very reasonable for a custom made hose of good spec's.


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bcfromfl
post Jan 13 2017, 10:40 PM
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Just out of curiosity, why not braided steel lines -- that should theoretically last the life of the car? Avoid rubbing and heat issues, too. Pricing seems less than what has been quoted for OEM and rebuilds...
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Stimpy
post Jan 14 2017, 09:13 AM
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QUOTE (bcfromfl @ Jan 14 2017, 12:40 AM) *
Just out of curiosity, why not braided steel lines -- that should theoretically last the life of the car? Avoid rubbing and heat issues, too. Pricing seems less than what has been quoted for OEM and rebuilds...


braided hose is still hose underneath the braiding, and that rubber hose still goes bad with time.

it would have been nice of lambo if they had made the long lift hose out of pipe like they did with the power steering lines running to the front, so you know they could have easily done that.


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bcfromfl
post Jan 14 2017, 09:43 AM
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QUOTE (Stimpy @ Jan 14 2017, 12:13 PM) *
braided hose is still hose underneath the braiding, and that rubber hose still goes bad with time.

Granted, the rubber still can go bad over time, but my main point is the cost, and availability. Braided steel hoses are available easily from several sources, and is a good-quality alternative.

Just a thought...
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Stimpy
post Jan 14 2017, 05:26 PM
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QUOTE (bcfromfl @ Jan 14 2017, 11:43 AM) *
Granted, the rubber still can go bad over time, but my main point is the cost, and availability. Braided steel hoses are available easily from several sources, and is a good-quality alternative.

Just a thought...


I would definitely get the best quality hose you can get that will still fit throughout the route of the original hose. I would lean more toward hoses with higher pressure ratings than heat resistance. This long hose is not really that close to the heat like some of the other engine bay hoses.


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