IlToro

If you use a filler like the one I highlighted, it will tell you how full or empty the system is. I'm not an AC guy, but I think the other side would be for pressurizing the whole system to see if it holds, we know it doesn't, and aren't interested in finding the leak, just in replacing the lost freon. In any case, this is as far as I would go as a DIYer. Leave compressor replacement and other AC trouble shooting to someone more qualified. It can be hazardous to break open lines, and pressure test. This process is very safe and easy.

Arrrg! The picture is the low side, forget the high side. This process is for replacing leaking freon only, not servicing the whole system.

No not the top, don't open or remove anything, just jack the drivers side rear wheel until you see this. This picture will help.

No, I didn't make that very clear. All you really have to do is jack up the car on that wheel, that will create enough separation between tire and wheel arch where you can get your hand in there and snap the fitting on. Don't remove anything.

He says it's a common problem, along with allot of other things. I was always pretty confident with this Roadster, now, not so much. CAT failure, computer failure, and climate control failure. All with less than 15k miles. I'll have to re-think taking it out on back roads. He says "DO NOT JUMP START WITH ANOTHER CAR". I never have. Any voltage spike coming from the other car's alternator can take out the computer. Use a jump box.

Just about guarantee you both need AC charged, these compressors leak. Both my cars have to be charged every year. It's super easy. I bought this from Pep Boys. The low pressure side inlet is behind the driver side rear wheel so remove it. I purchased the trigger gun with gauge from pep boys made by Interdynamics and it worked great. With the air conditioner on high and set to coldest, you just screw the refrigerant to the gun and squeeze while while rocking the can back and forth. Release the trigger and read the pressure. Your shooting for 40-45 lbs. keep squeezing and checking until there. That's it. It's R134a

Got confirmation the computer is out. Ugh! This is one of those things you don't think will happen to you. I can't believe you've gone through three of them Shamile. There's got to be something else wrong that's causing them to fail. George isn't real keen on DIYer's but that's understandable. This is something you really do need the Lamborghini LDAS software to not only fix, but to see if there's something causing it.

$475.00 is insane. Just recently I took mine off that were scratched up and wiped them down with 99% isopropyl alcohol that easily removed the sticky stuff. Then I repainted with Krylon Fusion paint, satin black....Better than new. Cost, $4.75

I didn't even care about the price when I found them. It's just another threat in keeping these cars off the road, like computer problems!

Shamile: I went through his same problem with the rears, Tire Rack's inventory was too old. After allot of searching, I found them at TireCrawler.com with a late 2011 mfg date, which was acceptable. I see they don't list the fronts, but they may be out there.

Mikes Corvettes? Watch out for that guy, I bought a Pantera about 6 months ago from him, do not have good things to say. He didn't know anything about the Pantera, It was very misrepresented. He sure doesn't know about Diablos.

This is what I find too.

My SV does that, has always done it. Adjust RPM.

Good to see that your still around Shamile!

Appreciate all the suggestions. I will check through it all. What concerns me more is the P1602 code "CAN line communication fault" I think this is the root of the problem. Connections or the computer. I hate the idea of going to the dealer on this but I assume if it's the computer It will need the LDAS software to evaluate.

They're plug and play, no guessing. I have checked them, looks good. I need to check the injectors to make sure they're clicking, and see if there's a relay associated with them, but I'm beginning to think I have an ECU problem. That's about as bad as it gets! I swapped the cables and it seemed like both sides ran rough rather then just one, so inconclusive. I swapped them back. The car barley has 15K miles on it.

I have plenty of fuel at the rail, and have spark on all 6 wires, but cold exhaust. I have a CEL that says low voltage at the 02 sensor, but I think this is a symptom of something else, since they are new, and I assume they really don't do anything until the exhaust warms them and then they send voltage to the ECU with instructions? I also have a P1602 code "CAN line communication fault" Any ideas?

Air bag or ABS? Air bag is a trip to the dealer. No way around it.

The part number is 008402202. Say's it's 22 x 30

I live with it both cars, doesn't really bother me, and a louder exhaust is a good solution.

Oh now I get it. No problem at all.

That's worrisome give the tender is just a few amps. NOTHING should be even warm except the Tender itself. I would stop immediately until I found out what it was. A wire pinched or something. But the time and LED indication seem normal.

Does this help? http://www.lamboweb.com/Repairs_Section/Di...ngine_Codes.htm

You need an OBDII reader. Only way to zero in on it.

It doesn't matter what side of the fuse your on, but if that "mega fuse" is blown, that will for sure stop everything. The question would be how you did that. Did it get shorted to ground somehow? You'd know it, BIG sparks. You need to jumper the two post's together with a jumper cable, or just turn your key on, and use a screw driver to short the two post's, if your dash lights come on, it's blown. Looked into my manual, no ignition fuse, or anything controlling the entire electrical system.