Davo456

unplugged the Control panel on the dash looking to check out the 4 temperature sensors - cabling is not on the back of the control unit. cabling for 4 temperature sensors is next to the solenoid valves under the dash on the right hand side (passenger on a LHD car). Unplugged them and checked resistance as per workshop manual - all within 2 deg C of what they should be. Plugged everything back in. Went for a long drive today, and didn't bake in the car ! So starting to think a bad connection, that I've resolved by moving things. Typical Alfa Romeo type problem! Need to top up AC next, and see if problem really goes away. Starting to think this car needs more use, but its not the weather in the UK for this for another 2-3 months yet!

SV was from Model Year 1996 - so strictly speaking that means post August 1995. pre-Audi days, cars could be ordered with whatever the buyer wanted - so there exists a black VT with SV engine lid and SV air induction system (sold very recently by Carlo @ Topgear cars), a 1999 SV with VT front bumper (that I know very well) etc etc hence, you will see SEs and SVs with leather interiors, even though that wasn't the standard spec for the car. All depends on the eccentricity of the original purchaser! Also SEs with the small brake kit rather than the big brembos, as this was an option not a standard feature of the SE. Much of this I've learnt from Mike Pullen. anyone for a pink (as per the owner's girlfriends dress) and sand interior (as per the owners T shirt at the time of the factory visit) Countach ? [it was resprayed after a few years being for sale, as it was unsellable]

873 base model Diablos made from 1991 until ? guess 1995 when the base model was replaced by the SV 94 was when they got power steering when the VT was launched. so that would infer >60% were pre-VT (probably sold more in 1991/1992 than other years also - due to its new factor)

only statistics I'm aware of are: approx. 10% of all production went to UK in the 80's and 90's. 42 RHD Diablo SVs were imported (MY96-99) including 8 MY99 ones.

Chipster, is the carbon film anything special, or just something like this... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4D-CARBON-FIBRE-...=item35c6f5219a tempted to do my 99 dash in the same style as yours - looks very nice.

Chipster, is the carbon film anything special, or just something like this... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4D-CARBON-FIBRE-...=item35c6f5219a tempted to do my 99 dash in the same style as yours - looks very nice.

Sudesh has fitted some 1/4 turn valves to his air box pipes to trick the Carter valve into not operating at startup - could there be an issue with air flow when warm ? or the control box fails when warmed up ?

think i'm right, in saying, he would have to use the throttle at startup to start the car and keep it running until it got warm. I suspect mine has gone bad, and that's exactly what I need to do, for the first minute or so.

[quote name='jefflambo' date='Nov 29 2013, 02:46 PM' post='1081392' If A/C is blowing hot air will not be R 134 charge level as it would blow about what the outside temp is. If the air is heated then the heater control valve is not working or the rubber seal on the insert inside of it is torn and leaking hot coolant into heater core. Or there is a bad temp sensor which will make the system default into a heat mode. The heater control valve is in the right side rocker there is a small access panel in bottom just in front of right rear wheel. there is a plug going to the valve it needs 12 volts to that plug to close valve. If it has 12 volts and you are getting hot air then the insert is most likely bad. If it dose not have 12 volts then most likely there is a bad temp sensor and the system is in default heat mode. You can also put a hose clamp on the hose going to or from the heater control valve if it starts to blow cold air or the same as out side temp then you will know this is the issue. It will take a few for the temp to drop after you clamp off the hose as it will still have hot coolant in heater core. Hi Jeff, I took the cover off the panel in front of the right rear wheel, and found the fuel tank and 2 sets of hoses with 4 inline fuel filters. My car is RHD, so I'm wondering if its different ? The parts shots and 94VT workshop manual show the electrovalve underneath the passenger side (I think that means RHS) dashboard, but I've took a look under both sides of the dash and can't make it out. (see part 7 on pic) Is this a dash out job ?

Thanks Roy - cleaned, sanded and go all the way up now - Many Thanks!

I haven't got an owners manual, so excuse what might be a silly question: My interior light doesn't come on when you open either door, but does when you push the light on the dash board ? any ideas ? Also how does the map reading light for the passenger work ? Any ideas where I can locate a PDF wiring diagram for the electrics please ? The 94 VT workshop manual doesn't seem to include it.

so you mean the vertical channels inside the doors ? rather than the felt at the top of the door that is horizontal ? I checked fuse A5 today, which is the fuse to the H2O valve, and that was fine - as you say it seems the sensor failsafe mode is to fail open without power, putting maximum heat into the cabin! I'll check the valve out next. Many Thanks

ok, thanks for the heads up about the OBDII, I don't think its the compressor - I think I have low R134 - buts that's another issue. It runs hot, and won't get cooler when I adjust the controls - even though the outside temperature and incoming air is 9 deg C. I suspect I need to find the air inlet, and make sure that's not blocked. How did you Climate Control unit fail ? what's the symptoms ? I'll check out the fuses too. Many Thanks

Hi, I've been a watcher on here for many years, but finally got my Lamborghini at long last (having sat in my first one and visited the factory in 1985) Its a 99 SV Coupe, and as can be expected it has a few niggles that I'd like to try and sort out myself... I've done some searches in the forum already, but couldn't find these covered. 1. HVAC seems to only get hotter and hotter - no cooling whatsoever, and turning the climate control down doesn't seem to do anything. suspect the R134 is low. Engine temperature sat at 80deg C (170 deg F) on a long run for 2+ hours on the motorway/freeway. I'm thinking thermostat or blend valve is stuck ? How could I diagnose further ? who an ODBII scanner reveal anything ? I haven't checked the coolant level - will check that out tomorrow, as its a little warm at the moment 2. Windows are very slow and sometimes stop - suspect earthing issues with cabling ? or just poor connections on the switches ? I've got some Stabilant 22 that I'll start to use on the connectors from now on - starting with the window switches I guess I'm bound to find a few more issues, and will keep you posted.