prez27125

Looks to be House Of Kolor green to purple Kameleon Kolors. It may also just be the Kameleon green/purple pearl onto of a silver base. Pics arent the greatest http://www.tcpglobal.com/hokpaint/hokkameleon.aspx

grandma.....what a big horn you got.........

imagine catching that from a girl...................

Championmotorgroup Long Island New York white pearl 88.5 i believe. with front and rear spoiler and ugly bumpers. Was 85k car looks good, seen it in person. Championmotorgroup.com

I think your going to have to flush out your fuel lines really good. Disconnect them from the carbs, and Am I correct its a electric fuel pump? You would need to run the pump with a strong cleaner to flush the lines into a empty tank You might try to see about a brand like procleen. Its the stuff that gas stations use thats costs about $100 for a typical cleaning. get some of that and a new gallon of gas. Put it through the line, Let it sit a bit, then run. do it a few times because who knows how much shellacing (probably more towards the bottom of the line.....remember gravity?)maybe on the inside of the lines. You dont want stuff breaking off the lines in the future and clogging a carb.

I dont know about moisture escaping, I would believe it could help the gas go flat quicker because then the certain chemicals could evaporate where as they would be contained

Gas starts breaking down after a month, after that the time frame on how long it lasts until it goes stale depends a lot on how good the gas was to begin with. The biggest problems are the shellac that develops because it isnt noticable like gelling everything gets that fine coating and if you add a cleaner/additive you may end up with some major problems because of the shellac coming loose. Id store things like lawnmowers and snowblowers without gas for the 8 months or so, used make sure you have decently clean oil. Cars, I would just store cars with about a 1/4 - 1/2 tank over the winter if you plan to winter store, start and run it occasionally then get a gas can and add to it. Shouldnt really need more then a few gallons over the winter if you only run the car for a bit.......say 20 minutes.

very true

Im not upset I dont take things too seriously. But, what you said about informing you of the past details that would definetly irk me. Whether it was of a serious issue or not, just the fact that it wasnt plainly dscussed or brought up basically would make me wonder about other possible issues.

btw I used a 2008 murcielago as the example

What I was basically stating is that often there are times where you do need to either cut or remove something to access a part for removal and most this is not limited to 1 type of car or manufacturer. Just in general of the course of time and I feel a good qualified mechanic who might take a short cut like this would know whether or not this could be done properly with the technique he plans to use. As suzukidave said many cars do have a bolt in cross member so the bolt in theory is not so much a issue but, because it was touched/modified.....then it becomes more personal. Like you cut up my baby. Which I can agree with. Mr Gman, the reason I feel that that if a problem would have happened by now is that the cross member is located at the engine/transaxle and with the stress of engine being roughly 487 ft pounds of torque @ 632 hp and being you have a stick where you have an extra stress because of the typical pulling effect of the clutch you would be putting a lot of stress on it compared to say a honda. if the car was a front engine care with rear wheel drive I would be more concerned As far as Mr Lambochop "Care to re certify that chassis to US of A impact standards after you've cut a chassis member out? No? Then you have no basis saying that a cut chassis is safe or meets standards." Impact standards are not based on location or whether the crossmember is bolted in or welded. They take into account on how the car reacts to front, rear and side impact at the doors during crash tests but, you do have a great idea that it should be more chassis based because when you get hit, its always above it and the damage always pulls the chassis with it. look at the photo of a murcielago chassis its very well designed except for the metal being a little on the smaller side but, if you look where the crossmember would be located its wrapped around by a lot of support ,stress should be so much a factor on that one part. But, Mr Lambo might want to make an appointment with a good body shop and just have it inspected and if it makes him feel better and maybe even have it restored.

You would be suprised how many factory car dealer will do something like this in order to fix/replace parts. Its not unheard of. Although it may not be the recommended approach. Car factories build cars without much concern to the repair aspect in mind because if your going to bring it back to them they will bill you up the ying yang. Everybody knows a car dealer will charge you more........always! Ask any good mechanic about a heater core and how you will cut out a piece of the car to get to it. I guy my mother knows worked as a mechanic for some bus company and had to replace the ac compressor......he cut the side of the bus open to access it. Even though factory manuals will tell you how to do certain jobs a lot of times people will do a job like they did with yours to avoid risking possible damage to other componants. In the case of your work done, I would probably opt to do this option provided I knew more about the design of the car. Dont think that your car is a hazzard or unsafe or whatever because of this work. Im not going to comment on whether the forthcomingness or description of options and discussion because its kinda like he said she said. but, getting back to the work in general. If there was a problem going to arise because of the cutting/welding , you would have noticed it already.

the pop up headlight looks a little big to me but, the car looks nice otherwise