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LW Lambo

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  1. Thanks for sharing. The more options we have, the better.
  2. Yes, you should get a roar. Good luck!
  3. If your battery is old, I would change the battery first. But don't put the fender liner and the wheel back on since removing them will be part of changing the starter. With that said, I agree with PoKnow. Your starter is most likely the culprit.
  4. Thank you. Great additional information on this DIY. I believe the next person performing this would have a much easier time. There is nothing like cranking a new/rebuilt starter with confidence that it will engage every time. To reiterate from everyone's experience who has performed this, the most challenging part is removing the top nut. And note that the top nut could be 17mm or 19mm.
  5. It works great. It is identical to the OEM alternator from Lamborghini.
  6. I just finished replacing this hose. It took 3 hours for the job. I can do it in 1 hour the next time because of experience. My method was the same as Stimpy's. I did not remove any other hoses or hard lines. It was difficult to buy a new hose. Napa sells these power steering hoses at 6ft length. They said they didn't have anything shorter. Given that I only needed a few inches, I kept searching and was able to find a 3ft hose, part # 7-6075. Note: -My original hose was in good condition outside and inside, but I couldn't be sure until I can see it outside of the car. -The new hose has the same ID but it is only about half as thick on OD. The old hose is very thick and not yielding. -Removing the original hose is not easy. The technique I used was to 1) Cut the hose in half right in the center 2) Let the fluid drip out until that stops. One quart will come out 3) Cut slits at both ends of hose 4) Push hose off with a screw driver - For the new hose, the optimal length is 4". Anything longer you will have a difficult time getting it on, and anything shorter you will have trouble getting the hose to seal correctly -Stimpy's tip of using the wire tie to pull the hose during installation was great (Thank you Stimpy!!!) -I used a hair dryer with a diffuser to soften the hose while it was in place at one end. This helped a lot with making the hose flexible to be able to slide on to the other end -This is also a good time to flush out the power steering fluid
  7. I would also like to know if this product would work for opening the lights. The gap where you can spray in is literally razor thin. Plus this removal liquid has to travel horizontally then vertically. It would be great if this turns out to be the solution.
  8. I just completed the opening and cleaning of the headlights and very pleased with the results. First, I want to thank Stimpy for the tutorials. It made the job a lot easier. I really appreciate the thoroughness. The tools I used were Dremel, an Xacto knife, 1 spudger that is trimmed short and wide, and 1 spudger that is trimmed long and narrow, 8 wide tip flat head screwdrivers. I also had the trim plier but didn’t need to use it. Before cutting the plastic off the housing, I tried to remove the factory urethane by inserting different type of tools, but it was impossible to get very far. Therefore, I went ahead with the plastic cutting. The most worrisome part for me was the cutting off the plastic. It was difficult because I couldn’t see how deep and low to make the first cut since there is no color variation between the layers. Even though Stimpy said that the glass is very thick and durable, I was extra careful not to damage it and went very slowly. I cut bit by bit to expose 1 corner. The first layer is the plastic. The second layer is the urethane. After that, it is the glass. The overall thickness that I had to cut through was 5/32” to get to the glass. Also, I started the cut at ¾ down on the plastic rim with the glass facing up. BTW, Stimpy is absolutely right that the glass is very tough and wouldn’t get damaged. After the first corner was exposed, it was easy to cut the rest since now I could see through the cross sections and knew what I had to deal with. After removing the plastic surround, I used the Xacto knife to cut through the factory urethane on the top edge of the remaining plastic. Then I used the wide spudger to make the next cut. Finally, I used the narrow and long spudger to make the final cut. If you use the narrow spudger right away, it would deform and not cut through all the layers. That was why I went step-by-step. By using these 3 different cutting tools, I did not have to recut the spudgers. They lasted through the entire process. After the cutting of the urethane, the glass became loose. I then inserted the screwdrivers as shims and the glass lifted off. The cleaning and reassemble process were easy, and the results are new looking lights. Notes: 1 of the light had way more urethane that oozed all the way up the housing and difficult to cut through than the other. After the repair, if you didn’t know what the lights look like originally, you would think that the lights came from the factory without the plastic edge if you ran a good silicone line in the channel. Even though the original adhesive was urethane, it is better to use silicone to do the resealing. Silicone is strong enough yet allows for easier removal next time. I tested its bonding strength after drying by putting a suction cup on the glass and lifting up the entire light assembly. It held on well without any issue for 10 minutes. Be prepared to withstand physical pain when using the spudgers. I even drew some blood when it slipped and cut through my glove. Be extra patient. You will need an entire day to do this project plus drying time.
  9. No worries. If it weren’t for your post, I wouldn’t have looked at this hose carefully and replaced it. Another thing I found useful is to remove the old hose and shine a flashlight through it. Any part of the hose that is damaged, you an see light going through on the outside. My hose appeared to be in good condition except by the alternator inlet without the light test. But with the light on it, I can see a lot of holes especially where it rests on the gas tank from vibration wear.
  10. I bought a hose 6ft long with 1.5" ID. The length is correct, but the ID is just a bit small. It would not slide over the barb for the alternator. I took measurement of what is required for the hose ID. It needs to be at least 1.725" ID. So when you order a new hose, get 1.75" ID to save yourself some trouble.
  11. Stimpy, What is the diameter for this hose? Is it 1-1/4"? Also, how long is the total length of the hose? Thanks for your write up on this.
  12. What was involved to remove the manifold? Is the left side harder to remove than the right side? The left side seems to be more crowded.
  13. Remove starter. It will slide through between the heat shield and the engine. It will just barely fit through. Installation is the reverse order. However, prep work must be done on the starter to help you get the top nut threaded in easier. Tip: Glue the washer to the starter for the top nut. Tape the 17mm nut to the socket. leaving it protruding out 1/4" to make easier contact with the stud to thread in. Mark the starter with tape and a straight line to aid in alignment of the top nut and stud. The other cheater bars is for leverage when removing the oil line. My car was not on the lift so I did not have much leverage. The copper cheater bar is for tightening. It is soft enough to deform instead of overtightening the nut.
  14. THIS IS THE TRICKIEST PART!!! The top nut is 17mm and NOT 19mm and you can't see it. -Remove the 17mm top nut that holds the starter with 3/8" drive with 2 connected extensions and a 12-point 17mm socket Tips: -Use camera to look at top nut by looping it through the front top left of the starter -Use inspection mirror and flashlight to look at top nut from the rear top of the starter -Use wooden dowel as a guide so you can recognize the correct nut and distance when viewing it in the camera -Use 3/8 drive and 12 point socket to have more wiggle room. It is very tight in there - Use cheater bar over ratchet because ratchet is too short to put your hand on it inside the cavity
  15. Loosen the 19mm bottom nut that holds the starter with open end wrench. This is a captive nut so you cannot remove it all the way. You have to loosen it first and then loosen the top nut. As you slowly move the starter backward, you can unthread the bottom nut all the way out.
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