Stimpy

Very little track time. Mainly highway driving. Alignment was 3 years ago when tires were put on just before I bought the car, so just curious what others experience for wear front/rear.

On my 04 Murci, my front tires are wearing nuch faster than my rear tires. After 8k miles, the front Rosso’s have 50% tire tread depth remaining and the rears are 90% remaining. All 4 tires were new at the same time and only 3 years old - stock rims and tire sizes. The fronts have very even wear and no cupping or feathering to indicate any problems. What’s your experience with front to rear tire wear on OEM with Rossos? I am trying to determine if I have an issue or this wear front to rear is normal. TIA

A fellow club member hooked me up with Corsas. So I am getting those mounted this week.

Here's a pic of the damage. They said the tire was stuck the wheel, but given how close the large tear is to the treads, I think they simply weren't paying attention and placed the bead breaker too far away from the bead. They aren't arguing about paying for a new tire, so it doesn't really matter. The only thing I will need to replace the other side because I don't want a disparity in rolling diameter between left and right.

Thank, Rouleur! It’s the front and rear sizes in the attached picture.

Just took my right rear to Discount Tire for a nail repair and they destroyed the tire trying to break the seal. They said it was because it stuck to the refinished paint on the wheel. So I need at least one new tire, but would go ahead and do all 4 if I could find them. Tirerack says they are out and Pirelli says they are in backorder, so hoping someone knows of some in stock somewhere?

Thanks. Do you really think heating it up soften the adhesive? It's been said that the adhesive is silicon based so it doesn't soften with heat. Still not clear about how you "cut the edge." What tool did you use, and how did you get around the lip of the glass to cut the other side of the adhesive?

Thanks. After that, I will make sure I do all my work on carpet and sitting on the ground so that doesn't happen to me. So depressing. Any tips you can share for your technique to cut through the adhesive? I am still struggling to understand how to get a cutting tool around the lip of the glass to cut the glue on the other side of that lip.

Amon, sorry to hear the glass cracked. That's everyone worst nightmare about doing this job. Can you share the exact details of what led to it cracking so we can learn from your experience?

You should just take out the kill switch until you're ready so you don't have any more of those nasty surprises. And if your starter is bad, most people have them rebuilt for a few hundred dollars instead of paying the Lambo tax. I think their might be a cross reference though for new ones that are a lot less expensive. Look up the DIY posted on here for starters before paying the Lambo tax.

You want to measure the voltage going into that big post in the starter. That's where all the juice has to go into the starter to turn over the big V12. My voltage drops into the 8's or 9's on the dash when starting, and I noticed other Murci's do that too. If the voltage is good going into the starter, then you're pretty much left with a bad starter.

What would have been more valuable is to check the voltage at the starter when you try to start the car. You could have run a jumper to the post on the starter to be able to check it while the car is on the ground so you don't worry about the car falling off the jacks (or getting the extra jacks like I mentioned, which every home mechanic should have anyway). It's possible to have full voltage under no load with bad wiring, but then the voltage drops dramatically when you activate a load on the circuit.

It's confirmed it not fine for me! I rented a Nissan SUV while there a year ago, and it's insane. Especially the way the London buses are more than happy to play chicken with you when there's no way for both you and them to fit on the same road.

Follow up Murci video that my good friend in the UK, Mark, sent me today: https://youtu.be/YTSdQ3mm0p4 It would be highly stressful for me to drive a Murci in London. It's insane how little room is left after everyone parks on both sides of already narrow streets.

If you want to solve your jacking issue, just buy 3 of these (or 2 if you already have 1 large jack): https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-low-profile-steel-heavy-duty-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-62326.html You can lift the entire car up around 2 ft off the ground and then put jack stands. You'll have lots of room to work. I always lift the front 2 jacks a little at a time so I don't torque the chassis until I get the rear tires off the ground with the single jack in the back. Once the rear tires are off the ground, you can't torque the chassis. It will be much more pleasant working on the starter with the car level and off the ground by a couple feet, not to mention for all the other jobs.

From my understanding, the original glue for the glass is more of a silicon base that will not soften with heat like other manufacturer's headlight's glue. Also, the headlight housing is not sealed from the atmosphere. It has 5 vent openings at the bottom, so you are not trying to get an airtight seal when putting the glass back on. The glass wraps around the plastic light housing, and then the body wraps around the glass, so water ingress is not an issue. The housing is held from the bottom, and the glass can't be removed from the top so even if the glass came loose it can't go anywhere. The main thing is to glue the glass on so that it's easy to get off again, because this job will likely need to be done again in the future.

Thanks! I bought that "spudger" in anticipation of this job from your recommendation. It looks like this one: https://www.amazon.com/TOOLISESAMO-iSesamo-Electronic-Device-Repair/dp/B00792JJK4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1542257502&sr=8-4&keywords=iSesamo+genuine+spudger+repair+opening+pry+tool Do you have a close up pic of the glass cover from the bottom showing the design of the glass edge where the factory glue is applied?

Inahi, what was your approach to cutting through the factory glue holding the glass to the housing? It's a tongue and groove design, so it's not clear what's the best way to cut through it.

I would start with the simple stuff. Try removing the grill over the exhaust (8 screws) and check the wiring connectors for the wing motors on either side for corrosion. If it's not that, then I would remove the lid from the exhaust and look at the motors/circuit boards for any corrosion or other damage.

Can you please post the link you found?

This is on my to-do list, but keeps getting pushed down as I get tied up with other car projects. It's not an easy fix unless you pay someone to do it (around $2K from what I remember of some guy that does it), or fork out $15K to Lambo for new units. Tedious work, but that glass is pretty strong stuff, so unless you do something really stupid, it won't break.

I think Blaze bought it

I do not understand what is going on with your car. At $299, even with 30K miles, it should have sold a long time ago. Especially with a new clutch 3K miles ago. Is it because you have the body kit on there? What if you returned it back to a stock LP640, sold the body kit separately for $10K , and then raised the price to $320? I bet it would sell then.