Inahi

Very first setup with Tubi

Out comes LOC with primary and secondary delete

So excited. Fabspeed exhaust arrived today. Will be installing this weekend. Hope me this is last and final setup. Previously had: - Tubi with secondary delete followed by LOC followed by primary delete Now I will have fabspeed with primary and secondary delete. Can’t wait !

Thanks for the input. I ordered a fabspeed exhaust. Arrived today. Will be installing this weekend

Done - keep up the great work!

Nice work. Love your videos. Keep them coming. I also dipped my wheels last year. Love fact that I can easily change color when I get tired of color. I think it’s time to change up color again What color should I dip next

I finally had a chance to test drive with the new setup for my 05 Roadster: - LOC exhaust - secondary delete - fabspeed primary delete - Reid air intake at first I didn’t notice much of a difference. It sounded a little louder at idle. Sadly I don’t think I have the highly desired high pitch F1 sound I was looking for. I didn’t get to drive on fwy so I didn’t get a chance to go wide open on load. Maybe tomorrow. What I surprised to notice was that I no longer hear the Reid intakes. Another surprise is that I didn’t get the smelly exhaust that people have been complaining about. Nothing more than what I was used to before I deleted the primaries. Thankfully I don’t have any CEL. Another observation is that I no longer have a rasp at mid band rpm range. Unfortunately I do hear/have a pronounced drone more than before. Il going to keep this setup and drive for a couple runs before I swap the LOC with TUBI which I happen to have. From what I’ve read, I will not likely find tubi giving me higher pitch than LOC. My friends heard me drive up today and he ran out and told me he noticed the sound is much improved. I shouldn’t be complaining so much. The sound is definitely improved but I will not stop until I get the higher pitch. I know others have tried multiple combinations so I’ll take any suggestion that will make the murc a “screamer” - short of trading up for a lp640 Thank you in advance

Ok guys. I finally got the cats out. Passenger side didn’t take very long. The drivers side nut snapped. I sprayed lube to get clamp to move so I can access the second nut. That was still a bitch to get off. I spent a good 2 hours fighting to get the second nut off. Thanks to everyone’s help I was able to get the cats out without having to raise engine and I didn’t have to remove sway bar. Tomorrow I will installing the pipes. Can’t wait to hear the results.

Appreciate the input. Spray lube is a good idea. Hope to get it all out today

Thanks for the input. Mine is pre LP so I don’t have valve angles to worry about aligned to this topic, I see that the sway bar needs to be removed to pull the cats. did you remove sway bar with vehicle lifted? I hear it needs to be on the ground

Thanks Stimpy I was hoping for a easier solution. I’ll try again tonight after work. As for o2 sensor stubs, is there one better than other? It are they all pretty much the same? I see some have adjustable holes and filters. Didn’t know if any of that mattered for Lambo’s.

Love your videos. You inspired me to order a set of fabspeed primary deletes. Package Came in mail today. Couldn’t wait so I quickly got started. Took me about a hour to tear down and get left side cat loose. I tried to take out without removing sway bar. No luck. Guess I’ll have to do that tomorrow. Driver side is a PITA. This side is going to fight me. First try and I broke the clamp nut. I’ll have to figure out how to spin the clamp to get access to the other one. Any tips would be much appreciated Do I really need to lift the engine? If I do, Did you have to loosen the two engine mounts? Another question I see you are using o2 spacers Are the 90 degree ones better than straight? I see several types on amazon Any in particular work best for murci? I hope to take video of the sound of both loc and tubi with primary and secondary deletes

Hello Stimpy I wish I knew the exact code. SRS Code 14 is usually OEM unique. There should be a 5 digit code which is SAE standard that would help to guide us in the right direction. For example: SRS Code 14 for Toyota is SAE Code B0101. Many reported codes for B0101 are associated with a open in the Spiral Cable. But if your indicated passenger side, then i am at a loss. Whenever i suspect a harness / connection issue, I with the basics. If code says OPEN Circuit then go to the particular Airbag, disconnect the Airbag, short out the connector that traces back to the SDM module (see image #1). You should immediately see code change from Open to Short (in Toyota's case, that would be code 13 or SAE B0100). If you get a short code then the Airbag is bad. If you get still get a OPEN code then disconnect the spiral cable and do the same test again. if you get a short code then the Spiral cable is Bad. Note #1: The SDM or AirBag ECU's are pretty basic (for our generation Murc). The SDM monitors in real time and only when fault is detected. When fault is cleared, the system resets itself. Unlike emissions codes that are governed by Federal Laws that require successful multi trip passes before code is reset (or by use of a tool). SDM doesn't have such requirement so the benefit of a tool is to read the DTC but not needed to clear that code. Note #2: If the Spiral cable has a OPEN, your horn will likely also be affected since the HORN circuit also goes though the Spiral cable. So next time anyone has a SRS light and suspects Spiral Cable, See if your HORN works. Note #3: You should be very careful trying to measure resistance of the Airbag. I never recommend it. You could have enough current in your OHM meter to set off the bag. It's safer to examine the integrity of the harness. If you do suspect the airbag as being defective, get a 2.2 OHM resistor (like one from ebay) and insert inline. If you light goes out then the Airbag is defective. Here's the link to Ebay site selling the Airbag simulator: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SRS-Airbag-Simulator-Emulator-Resistor-Bypass-Fault-Finding-DiagnosticTool-Blk/254197411651?epid=546666591&hash=item3b2f58af43:g:tNkAAOSwR4dcsE3i Good Luck!

Hey stimpy. If you suspect the seat belt switch, I would first swap the passenger and driver side. If code follows them you know it’s a switch. If it doesn’t follow then it’s something else and you saved time and cost of unnecessary switch code 14 sounds more like passenger side airbag. Process of elimination is required. I don’t think it’s the switch. All the switch does is either enable or disable the dash airbag. Wouldn’t throw a fault code. I suggest looking at bag first. One inexpensive way($3) to confirm if your bag is good is to go on ebay and get a airbag bypass resistor. They sell the stuff for body shops that do quick fix and don’t replace airbag. They put resistor inline to fool the air bag module into thinking the airbag is present and functional. Using the resistor will quickly tell you if the airbag is good or not. The murc has two squibs so you need two resistors for passenger side. Only 1 is needed for steering wheel. Let me know if you still have questions. I used to be a airbag engineer for Lexus. Fundamentally airbags are designed with the same basic principals so the make and model really don’t matter. Especially with older generation vehicles good luck

Love the videos. Keep them coming! I have a 05 Roadster with LOC and secondary delete. You inspired me to delete the primaries so i ordered a set from fabspeed after seeing your video. Question: People have complained about the exhaust smell as being difficult to cope with. Do you feel its bad? I don't know how many roadster owners have taken straight pipe route. I wonder if F1 sound still outweighs the side affects. Any input is greatly appreciated.