Downdraft

I have a spare set of the rear wheels, have been keeping a lookout for a front set - would like to have a spare complete set in gold finish

Greg, Very nice interior, can you post a picture of the car too? Thanks. Alex

Very nice! Red/Black is one of my all-time favorites! Alex

If it's the oveflow resevour tank it is not supposed to connect to anything - it will just overflow a little under the headers directly on the road (or garage floor). If your car overheats it will piss out.

It seems that by-passing the air boxes, which are supplied by forced air from the outside, and instead sucking the hot air from around the motor will decrease performance - especially on cold days. Mods are OK but there was alot of fine tuning of the Countach since it was in production for so long. The QV truly benefirìts from all this experience. My 2 cents. Alex

Emilio, in my 4 valve I run 5-50 Mobil 1. My car uses pracitally no oil what-so-ever between oil changes - 8,000 KM or two years, which ever comes first. Alex

Hi Terry, Sorry to hear about that. For sure a compatible replacement part available here in Italy - w/o going through Lamborgini parts distribution. I guess the first step is to take it out, check the size - take advantage of the situation and change all the rubber plugs (even in the back), clean out the reservoir, replace fluid, etc. Shouldn't be a costly fix. Go ahead and PM me if you need any help. Good luck buddy. Alex

Hi Peter, I personally believe that it how you decide to remove the paint off you car depends on the condition your car is currently in and if it has been repainted in the past. My experience: My Coutach had 100% original paint acrylic with the exception of the front bumper and fender flares that had been repainted. The rest of the car had a few surface scratches, a some dings and about a hundred or so stone chips on the front end and on the rear fender flairs. I brought my car to a shop near Bologna that has been painting over 50% of all new Diablos and Murcis - all the special colors, 40th Ann., prototypes, etc. This shop reluctantly will accept a restoration project - I got lucky. All the people that worked on my car in the various phases were ex Lamborghini and ex Bugatti. Disassembly: Front bumper, spoiler, wing, flares, trunks lower rocker panels lights, grills, door windows, profiles, etc. Since I was not changing the color and the gaps in the doors were correct the doors were not removed. Also the front windshield was left on. Sanding: No chemical removers or send blasting was even considered. In fact when you sand down the Countach you will probably find a light green primer. These specialists respected the work that had been done at the factory and said that sanding it all the way down would have been a mistake since many of the thickness were correct - the Countach panels were not all the same and were not perfect when delivered from the supplier. "L" shaped aluminum reinforcements were welded under all the corners of the rectangular/square cut outs (Plexiglas blinker cover, headlights, radiator vents and back grills. These are high probability stress points and cracks will appear after some use. My car had cracks between the back of the rear fenders and the flat rear panel (the flat piece where there are the Lamborghini and quatrovalvole scripts) - these corner attachments were also welded and reinforced. Primers are very important: My QV is constructed with 4 different materials; aluminum panels and doors, kevlar front hood and engine cover, fiberglass front bumper/spoiler and steel roof. Each material must have a dedicated primer! The expansion/contraction rate of each material is different and a dedicated primer is required in order to avoid cracking of the paint. Paint: Instead of repainting the car with the same acrylic paint I opted for the Murcilago solid black color (Pegasus) - new generation product with a clear lacquer on top. This new generation paint will not rub off when waxing, is much more stable in very hot/cold temperatures and is resistant to solvents, etc. The beauty of the original acrylic paint is that it leaves no "orange peel" effect. However if you look at any Murcilago or my Countach) you will not see any either. The reason being is after the car is sprayed it is hand sanded again (wet) with 800 and 1000 grain sandpaper. Then it is polished with a buffer (this process is very delicate since the Countach has any right angles in the panels and an inexperienced person will buff out until the primer!) Honestly the finish becomes glass! I do have picture documentation, just a question of finding it. I have a low res. image when picking up my car after 4 months! Good luck and keep us posted. Alex GLA 12988

Really clean - did you take advantage of an engine-out situation? Did you re-spray the engine bay? Probably the nicest injection engine I have ever seen! Congrats. Alex GLA 12988

Greg, nice car, even to Torino tags. What is considered a class? Alex

Udo,Just take your original shock to a local hydraulic shop and have it re-generated. Here in Italy it takes about 2 days and the total cost is about € 8. I have had my front hood, passenger door and rear trunk done about 4 years ago and going strong. Also all six of my shock absorbers - that cost was about €360. My driver's side door will be next, it takes about 30 seconds to open all the way without "help". Alex

Peter - there is a very high probability that it is the pin that goes from the bottom of the cable to the spedo drive unit in the front left hub. In the QV it took me about 1 hour to replace (lambo part costs about $10). Should be the same. Mine smapped when I hit a pot hole. Good luck. Alex

No you don't. I had my QV repainted by a specialized shop and they weld underneath the corenrs 2.5mm aluminum reinforcements, "L" shaped. Also around the rear grills and front lights. Four years have gone by - including track time - and cracks did not reappear. Alex

That’s why it’s good to have a fire extinguisher in the car, you can always smash your way out.

When I bought my car the back tires had damaged the fibreglass under the wheel well and the little suspension arm had punched a hole in the engine bay compartment (Fiberglas). It would rub mostly in hard 1st gear accelerations I regenerated the original shocks increasing the stiffness by 10 kg each (20 per rear wheel) and increased the bottom out rubber stoppers by 3 cm. Also when the Fiberglas was repaired a made a small curvature where the strut comes up. No problems since. Alex 1986 GLA 12988