doltmo

I'm sure you've already checked this, but just to make sure... Any chance a part of the exhaust system is coming in contact with a frame or body member? The most likely place is where the pipe exits via the exhaust tips in the honeycomb grill.

According to the '06 manual, the ratios are: gear.........2006+ .... '04,'05 1st..........1:3.313....1:2.563 2nd.........1:2.053....1:1.850 3rd..........1:1.458....1:1.423 4th..........1:1.138....1:1.138 5th..........1:0.939....1:0.939 6th..........1:0.784....1:0.806 Reverse...1:2.813....1:2.813 I am uncertain on the "final drive" ratio. Various magazine reviews stated it was 3.82, but those who have counted the teeth on the gears claim this is incorrect. It could be an issue of the semantics: is the "final drive ratio" the gear ratio of the hypoid gears in the diff, or is it the ratio of crankshaft revs to axle revs in 6th gear? Since 6th is not 1:1, these could differ by 20-22%.

I've never had an issue with the factory pads squealing. I'm mid-way through my second set and have run up almost 50,000 miles. Depending on your driving habits, the pads can develop a glaze that will cause a squeal under light braking. This can usually be cured with a Balboni brake job (several back-to-back high speed stops) - or a day at the track. If that doesn't work - or only cures it for a few weeks, pull the pads out and rough them up a bit with a coarse flat file - don't remove a lot of material, just scratch the surface up a bit.

If you really want the manual set, they are available - for a price. see eBay

With the valve open on the 06+'s, you essential have a straight pipe from the cats to the rear bumper. Retrofitting an '06 exhaust on an '04 will give you the same thing. Straight pipe is straight pipe. The '04's had exhaust valves - they just didn't do much because they didn't bypass the entire muffler. I would think that you could connect the vacuum lines on your '04 to the valves on the '06 retrofit system and it would perform the same way it does on the '06+'s. I drove my '06 with the valves bypassed for quite a while and never thought it was overly loud during idle and at cruise. But then again, I left the cats in place. Taking those out would make it significantly louder.

That makes sense. What we're probably seeing here is an attempt by both Audi and Lamborghini to engineer some of the extra costs out of these vehicles. You'd have to check with Lamborghini to see if these pads will work on the early Gallardos - they'll probably say "no" due to the wear sensor issue. But give it try and see what happens. That's what I'm going to do when the current pads wear out on my '06. The only "directional" nature of the original pads appears to be the backer plate - maybe it has something to do with noise (squeal) issues with the Ferodo friction material.

Those pads looks like Audi R8 pads. I bought a set from my local Audi dealer early this year to try out on the Gallardo. They're about 1/3 the cost of the Lambo OEM pads. Mine came in an Audi box, but carry the same part numbers as the ones you show - including the Pagid AQ03 friction material. The only issue I have with the Audi R8 pads I got was that only one of the 8 had a wear sensor. The OEM Bremo set had two pads with wear sensors (one for each side). Other than that, they look the same. Looks like you only have one wear sensor too. The part number list on the side of your box says 1 pad of one number and 7 pads of another. So now I'm really confused why Lamborghini would sell a pad set with only one wear sensor. Do the instructions tell you how to "short out" the other wear sensor cable??? My guess you would have to clip off the pigtail of the worn-out pad, sort out the wires, then plug it into the wheel well connector. In contrast, the Lambo OEM set I got has four different pad numbers - the left and right side pads are different (directional). I've not mounted the R8 pads yet (still waiting for the Brembo set to wear out), but it's interesting to note that Lamborghini seems to have recognized the other material. Shown below are the pads I got from by Lambo dealer back in 2007.

Seriously - the left cat is "ice cube cold"? Sounds like the left bank of the engine may have shut down and you're only running on 5 cylinders.

I found a couple of bulbs at my local AutoZone that appeared to be direct replacements. I used a Sylvania #6418. This is a 13.5v 5w. They also make a similar bulb in a 13.0v 5w version with a different part number, which is just as good and would be a bit brighter. These bulbs also come in a 10w version, but I would be afraid of the higher heat melting the plastic.

He's got me by a few miles - but he had a whole year head start. This car just keeps getting better with the miles.

Sorry to resurrect an old tread, but I never did get a clear picture in my mind from the instructions posted above. I'll add my 2 cents.... Each license plate light module has teeth that hold it in place. The outer teeth (away from the license plate) are fixed and the inner one is spring loaded. The right side light is shown below; the left light looks the same, but is a mirror image. To remove the license plate light module, use a large flat bladed screw driver to slide the module toward the center of the car while at the same time exerting some downward pressure on the light. I placed the blade of the screw driver between the light and the body color bumper and used a twisting motion. This will compress the spring and allow the fixed teeth to clear the opening and the module will drop down. Once the fixed teeth have cleared the opening, the light should drop down with little effort. If it doesn't want to come out, you probably haven't cleared the fixed teeth yet. Don't force it or you will damage the fixed teeth. Removing the light module on the other side uses the same process - just from the other side. Remember, always slide the light module toward the center of the car. To reinstall, insert the outside end (fixed teeth) first, then just press it in. The spring loaded teeth will compress and lock the unit into the bumper.

My dealer, MAG, (formerly Lamborghini Ohio) recommends the VW/Audi G052171A2 fluid, which incidentally has an official Lambo part number 0024016729 .... and a corresponding "Lambo" price about 3x the equivalent Redline lube.

I didn't think the '04 and '05 G's had nav.

Yes, you have to remove the transmission to replace the clutch. This requires removing the rear bumper and the muffler (if so equipped). I don't know of any tutorials. I think most of us call in the experts on this job.

I'm confused. What kind of a stain are you referring to? A picture would be nice. Is this a heat related, carbon (soot) stain? Where on the bumper does it appear? I've not had this problem, and I've got quite a few miles under my belt - but I've never pulled the cats.

It appears to be an automatic transmission fluid, similar to Dexron. I'm not an expert, so you should get a second opinion.

I don't think you want D4.

Quoting from Red Line's web site, http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=42&pcid=8 regarding Superlight ShockProof gear oil: "Avoid use with pumps, coolers, and filters as unique medium and affinity for metal can cause clogging." The Gallardo has all three.

1.Is there a compression washer on the dry sump oil plug also? If so, this compression washer should also be changed (since it is good practice to replace compression washers each time, as they cost pennies). I can not find any part # for this second washer if it exists. Anyone have a part #, if it is different from the other? Yes, both plugs have a similar compression washer. Lambostxff.com lists two different washer part numbers, N0138481 for the engine and N0138486 for the oil tank. They are the same diameter, but one (not sure which) is slightly thicker. I've reused my old ones several times with no ill effects. If you see leaks, then switch them out with new ones the next oil change. 2. Why does Ricambi supply the main oil drain plug, but not a new dry sump plug? Are these both M16x1.5 (Ricambi gives this spec for the main drain plug.) The plugs are identical. Maybe after two oil changes you will have a complete set of new plugs and washers. 3. What is the torque spec for each of these 2 drain plugs. Lamboweb article says 45Nm, which is 33 ft/lb. That seems very high for a plug threaded into aluminum. Don't want to strip it. But this torque may be required to crush the washer? My lambo dealer probably torqued my plugs down to factory spec the last time they changed the oil on my car. I said a lot of curse words while trying to loosen the plugs the first time I changed my own oil - and vowed never to torque them down that tight again. Unless you can get the car up on a lift, you really don't want to (or can't) torque them down that tight. 4. What is the proper torque of the oil filter housing? Must not overtighten, but Lamboweb says to tighten with the filter wrench. I normally go hand tight on a normal filter (not housing), since otherwise you can not get it off once it seats over time. You are correct. Filters are harder to get off than they are to tighten down. The filter on the Gallardo is exceptionally difficult to get to and you may have difficulty removing a filter torqued down by your friendly lambo service tech. It seals with an O-ring, so excessive torque should not be required to get a good seal.

I used Red Line MTL (75W80) on my last change, based on recommendation from a Lambo tech who frequently haunts this forum. I think I'll try Red Line MT-90 (75W90) next time. The 75W80 is probably a better choice for cooler climates or if you're having shifting problems when the gearbox is cold. I believe he recommended Castrol for e-gear boxes, but don't recall the weight. Also not sure why the manuals and e-gears are on a different diet.

On closer inspection of your photo I too can see the chamfered edge of the pads. I'm reversing my vote and going with Mike and Swif. You're fine.

Time to change your pads! When the pad material is getting close to the thickness of the backer plate, it's time for them to go. Here's a new pad next to a used pad when I pulled them off the car. Notice the wear sensor cable is about to the point where it will start to get burned off by the rotors. Check your fluid level as well. As the pads wear the pistons push out further, causing your brake fluid level to drop. When you start to get low, you'll get brake warning beeps on hard left hand turns.

Yes, these screws can be difficult to remove - especially if the radio is still in the car. Get a GOOD quality Philips screwdriver that fits the screws - don't use one that been chewed up or is too big.

My oil du jour is Red Line MTL (70W80). I've been fighting a balky 3rd gear synchro issue and the Mopar 75W90 and Agip 75W90 used by my dealer didn't help, but the MTL did the trick. I'll probably give the heavier Red Line stuff (MT-90) a try next oil change to see if my issue was solved by the thinner fluid or the different brand. I've also been told that not all gear boxes are the same, so what works for me may not work for you. Stay away from GL-5 fluids; they're not friendly to the yellow metal parts in the gearbox.