doltmo

Both answers are partially correct. Remember that the valves are normally open (loud) and are closed (quiet) by vacuum. The vacuum comes from the engine intake manifold when the throttle is closed or only partially open. The 12V solenoid valve is normally "closed" and opens when 12V is applied. An energized/"open" solenoid valve allows engine vacuum to reach the exhaust valves and close them, making the car quiet. So the car is LOUD under the following conditions: (1) no vacuum, OR (2) solenoid valve de-energized (no 12V) By simple logic, the car is QUIET when (1) there is vacuum AND (2) the solenoid valve is energized (12V) There is a vacuum accumulator in the system (a plastic bottle with a one-way valve) that maintains vacuum during wide-open throttle for other systems in the car. Upon initial start-up it takes a few seconds for the engine to "pump down" the accumulator and generate enough vacuum to close the exhaust valves. This is why the car is loud on initial start. The other times the car is "loud" is: (1) full, or near-full throttle (no vacuum produced by engine) - regardless of engine RPM (2) engine RPM above about 4500/min, at which time the ECU turns off the solenoid valve - regardless of throttle position I'm not well versed on the ECU control, it may close the solenoid valve on initial start but I always assumed the loud start was due to lack of vacuum. Also, the 2006 and later GEN1 Gallardos bypass the muffler completely when the exhaust valves open, The 2004 and 2005 cars only bypassed part of the muffler and were not as loud when the valves open. The 2007's and later had tighter emissions controls and would throw a CEL if the mufflers were bypassed other then when the ECU thought they were - something to do with monitoring the back pressure, I think. When the car is idling, there should be 12V on the solenoid valve. There is no other "switch" in the line between the ECU and the solenoid - unless you want to add one to select between loud-all-the-time and quiet-most-of-the-time mode. Is there is a chance a previous owner added one of these? Some of these were wireless/Bluetooth-controlled and tapped into the ECU wiring - either at the fuse box or at the ECU itself. Rick

Sounds like you've already done most of the diagnostics. You've demonstrated that you have vacuum and the flapper valves operate when you connect the flapper valves directly to the vacuum line (bypassing the solenoid valve). You've also proved that the solenoid valve works by connecting 12V to it directly. So it looks like the problem is no 12V command signal from the ECU. There's a chance the wire from the ECU is open circuit. The most likely place is at the connector on the solenoid valve. Pull the flexible boot back from the connector and verify that both wires are firmly connected to their pins (see first pic). The green/black wire is the signal from the ECU, the purple wire is ground (I think). If there's no problem with the connector, the next step would be to see if there's signal at the output of the ECU. The Gallardo has two ECU's; you want the one behind the left seat (the driver's seat for those of us in the US). You can remove the connector backshell and probe the cable to locate the same green and black wire you found on the connector. You can probe this with a voltmeter by poking the probe through the wire insulation (and then start the car). If you don't see 12V here, you've got an ECU problem. If you see 12V here, but not at the connector, then it's a break in the wire somewhere between the two. As a final word, I would STRONGLY recommend dumping the factory exhaust and going to an LOC (LNB?) exhaust (the version without the valves). The even-fire V10 sounds fantastic with the LOC X-pipe design, much, much better than the LP-560's or the Huracans. It's loud all the time, but it's a very "nice" loud, much more pleasant than the muffler-bypass (flapper valves open) on the stock muffler Good Luck, Rick

Check out this thread on the forum: http://www.lambopower.com/forum/index.php?...37&hl=P1311 P1311 is an exhaust sensor pressure signal fault - maybe a plugged misfire tube

Remember that the Gallardo has two gas tanks, connected by a transfer pipe on the bottom and a vent pipe on the top. Just a hunch, but maybe the transfer pipe is blocked and gas can't flow into the left tank. I'm not sure where the fuel level sensor is located.

I've had the car for a little over a year now, but splitting my time between the two cars is keeping the mileage "down" (if I can use that word) on both. I took the car to Monterey this past summer, so that's a little over 5K miles on that trip alone.

Both cars out for a group portrait before all the leaves dropped. 2015 Huracan #1042 (16,000 miles) and 2006 Gallardo #2973 (129,000 miles).

If anyone's curious where their Huracan is, Lamborghini uses Wallenius Wilhelmsen to ship the cars. If you know your VIN, you can get real-time tracking via their website. Type in your VIN, or just the first couple of numbers to find all the Huracans, like I show here: And here you go.....

The combination of S/S on the front and Magic on the rear worked out fine for me and my driving style. If you get deeper into the brakes in the turns you might benefit from having S/S pads on the rear. I use the S/S pads for track days, so I've not run the S/S pads on the street for an extended time. But I didn't notice any squeaking for the thousand or so miles I ran them on the street getting to and from the track. Why don't you put S/S pads just on the front and try them for a couple of months. Half the cost of going all-in and you get most of the benefit of the more aggressive compound.

I got a set of SS pads for the front brakes for last year's track season. I was very pleased with them - lots more bite than the Magic pads. Try 'em. I ran Magic street pads on the rear.

So, you're OK with the view out the back window through the standard rear bonnet?

+1 I've been running Girodisc rotors and pads for the last 40K miles. Very little dust plus the rotors look much better than OEM.

Anyone else out these over 100K???

NO, it's certainly not the highest mileage Lambo. Jack Riddell owns that spot with over 250K on his '72 400GT. But I'm probably in the top 10 and maybe closer to the top in single-owner miles. The car's been very reliable with no major issues. It burns a little more oil than it used to, but nothing worth fussing over. It's a 6-speed manual, of course.

Getting close to 106K on my 2006

At "only" 26K, you've got a lot of enjoyment left in that car.

If you get tired of the wear sensor warning on pads without wear sensors, you can always short out the sensor. Just cut the sensor wires off your old factory pads, short the two internal leads together and reinsert into the socket.

The R8 rear rotors might fit the LP560, they won't fit the 1st generation Gallardos (wrong diameter). I think the RS6 rear rotors are the wrong thickness. I switched to Girodisk and have been very happy.

I've been very pleased with the Girodisk magic pads.

Low brake fluid level. Usually shows up first in hard left hand turns.

yup, that's it.

Your '06 is just barely broken in; don't be afraid to put the miles on it. I believe my car actually runs better at now 77K than it has at any point so far. I do most of the maintenance myself, so the cost data would not apply to most owners - plus I'm too lazy to dig through my files and add up all the numbers. Basically I change the oil every 5k miles: I still use Agip 5W-40, but there's nothing magic about this stuff. I check the oil frequently and typically add a quart or two between changes. The (manual) gearbox fluid gets changed every spring, I use RedLine MTL. The brake fluid also gets changed every spring, and re-bled before track events as needed. I change the front diff every other year. I pulled the spark plugs last summer at about 65K. They'd been in the car for about 30K miles and they could have gone much longer (the factory replacement schedule for plugs is way too frequent). Had a wheel alignment and a coolant flush last year. Changed brake rotors (to Girodisk) last spring. Originals went about 65K miles. I'm on the 3rd set of front brake pads, 2nd set on the rear. Clutch was changed at about 38K (before it really needed it), still running strong on 2nd clutch. Still on the original battery, original windshield wiper blade. Replaced the engine air filters with the "sport" filters last year. I've replaced a couple of tail light bulbs. Lost count of how many sets of tires I've gone through. Had the dealer replace the charcoal canister (gas tank vent) last fall. Had to replace one of the front radiator honeycomb grills after hitting a big chunk of tire tread. Replaced the black rub strip under the nose after getting airborne over a hill and bottoming out the car. Also, I'm religious about using leather treatment on the seats - the bottom part of the driver's seat will develop "stretch marks" if you let it dry out.

Wow, that's strange. I've probably got more hours/miles on a 2006 Gallardo that anybody in the country and I've never had this problem. I did have the rear side marker light melt, but I think it was due to the bulb getting too close to the plastic and too much night time driving. The exhaust pipes are usually pretty far away from the tail lights. Although the factory heat shield might trap the heat and channel it sideways towards the tail lights.

The best maintenance is frequent use. Get out and enjoy your car. My '06 manual has been bulletproof. 77K+ miles and all smiles.

Check to make sure the correct wattage bulb is being used. With an '06, the original factory bulbs may have been replaced with a non-standard (brighter/hotter) bulb by someone who did not know or couldn't find the correct wattage.

Since this old thread's been brought back to life, I'll update my earlier posts regarding the R8 pads. The R8 pads with the Pagid compound are not as good as OEM Lamborghini Brembo pads with the Ferodo compound. I got two track seasons out of the OEM pads, only one (last year) with the R8 pads. Based on what others have said, I think I'll try Girodisk Magic pads this season. I put their rotors on last spring and have been very happy with them.