JonV8944s

That's more opinion, speculation and conjecture then it is "fact." But that's the beauty of a forum, we all have opinions and they are all welcomed here. I may not agree with yours, but I respect that you have one. My experience has been alternator is rock solid on these cars, but batteries have been a struggle, and battery tender so far has caused me 2 killed batteries. Back on topic, I'd give a new battery a shot and see if that solves your problem OP!

That was my point, I got the better version, if it was Gold vs Silver, then I got gold, if it was Gold vs Platinum, then I got Platinum. All I can remember is I got their best version, and it came with more Cranking amps then the standard one. I think some people are being overly sensitive on the alternator, people that's what its meant to do, dead/dying batteries are a way of life, alternators are designed to charge even drained batteries, so do what you like, but my murci has drained a battery many times from just sitting, and my alternator is still going strong, 5 years later. Batteries not so reliable.

Replied as requested

Same here, I am surprised to hear everyone saying we need to get tenders, as I have already ruined two batteries with them, a red top, and the interstate. I now have an Autozone model that was nearly a drop in (used a little dremel tool to adjust the base to get it to fit on the slideable plate, but I have left the lambo unused for like 2-3 weeks, and it cranked right up, where as before, I would leave the lambo for 2 weeks and it needed a jump to get it going. Sorry I dont know the Autozone model right off my head, but they were able to cross reference it from the interstate battery I had. It literally is the best of the batteries i have had. It was their top of the line brand, I think Platinum vs Gold, and so it gets more cranking amps. I'd likely replace the battery and see if that solves these issues. And I recommend oddly enough the one from Autozone, its been flawless for the last 3 months. Jon

You are correct, my bad, it was 15mm, not 17mm, I remember it now. YOU DO NOT need to remove the alternator at all for this Sorry if you found out the hard way. lol. Jon

Its the roller tensioner its to the right of the waater pump, around the alternator it uses a 17 mm socket to flex it away from the belt, and gives just a hairs amount of room to remove the belt, and it likely takes two people to take it off and put it on. One to hold tension on the belt tensioner pully (holding it back again with 17 mm socket) and the other person to remove the belt. Also remember the only way to get the belt of is to remove that aluminum spacer on the housing bracket on the left side, and DONT lose it, it drops right out when you remove the bolt. I've done this job a few times, so I know it well. Let me know if you have any questions. But yes the 06 system is newer then the one in the manuals, and some of it is nice improvement and some of it is a pain in the ass. Also the best way to get at the wheel tensioner bolt is with a 8-10 inch extension and you run it through an opening around the alternator. Jon

45 views and no one has an electronic copy of the wiring diagram?

anyone have the wiring diagram for the egear (pre lp640 and post lp640 would be nice). Thanks! Jon

Wholeheartedly agree, and Reese (This guy) was instrumental in getting me through some of the challenges in doing my clutch swap on my egear, he definitely is a tinker'er and I am hopeful he gets the formula solved. If he does, I'll yank everything out and implement the solution to confirm it works. I am no longer scared of clutch jobs in this car, or yanking the motor/trans/differential out, its really not as scary as people feel it is. A few modifications to standard equipment makes this doable for a decent do-it-yourself'er. Thanks, Jon

He knows this, (we talked about it), the reason this is relevant, is that he plans to keep the car for ever, and expects more than one clutch job and at that point, it starts to pay dividends.

PS. The PISTONHEAD link provided regarding the transmission swap guy is the very same guy I am referring too in my last line. Speak up already

This fantastic humor was not lost on me, clever! Aka: The general Public is full of mostly morons.

So welcome to me about 8 months ago. First, Dwiggs can kiss my ass, he claims all this insight into knowing how to do it, but wont return a single phone call or help anyone out who even attempts to solicit any information. I even offered to pay him $1000 in consolation money because I'd be doing all the work myself and only need a few bits of information from him. No reply. I emailed, I pm'd and I even called his office. So yeah, Dwiggs can 'claim' he has a 2000hp SV and he can claim he converted a Egear to Manual, but I'm calling bullshit. -Slightly frustrated, because if you are going to claim something, back it up, he has not. Next, I am likely the 'closest' person to have done something like this, as I converted my Murci egear to an LP640 egear, and even that has challenges, BUT it also got me FAR more familiar with that various transmissions and I have intimate familiarity with the Egear transmissions. So I can tell you a few things, first, the front bellhousing works the same and that will NOT need to be replaced if you do the conversion. Next the rear half is 'bolt on' replacements, so you can easily attach the manual apparatuses and mounts to it. So another NON issue. As far as the 'selector' signals on the side, again, leave them attached, they dont do shit but feed information to the computer, the do NOTHING to actuate the transmission, they are simply singles letting the car know what gear its in. (Again, I have been DEEP inside an egear tranny, I know that side cover and attachments quite well). The major issues, which arent so major, is installing the 3 peddle setup, the clutch master, the clutch line, AND drilling the hole in the center council in the egear tunnel to allow for the shifter to pop through the tunnel. (Its covered over in the egear cars), at least the metal heat shield insulation is covering it on the underside, and on the topside some other material is covering the 'hole' if its exists. I think everyones concern about the egear/computer is irrelevant, here is why, put the car in 'neutral' and you can REV the car all day long, SOOOOO what exactly is the computer going to do, if you are in neutral and increasing speed? Ever go down a Hill in NEUTRAL? Ever go 70mph or whatever number and hit both paddles and put the car in neutral? I do... the car doesnt give a shit, it doesnt wig out. So the computers must be TOTALLY ok with the notion of the car accelerating WHILE IN NEUTRAL, and all other functions working correctly. Egear guys know what I am talking about. I fully support the conversion, but someone who can appreciate a long downtime to research all of this is going to be needed. One other guy was my sidekick in our search for this (he was actually leading the charge), it would be nice if he spoke up on any success he has had in the conversion. He has multiple transmissions and bell houses that he purchased and learned many lessons he shared with me. Thanks, Jon

thats a Gen 1 (aka Murci, not lp640), the Paddle shifters alone give it away . Also am I crazy or does it clearly say near the door latch NOT to put a kids carseat in the car. lol. Its just ironic, I swear thats what the sticker says (although its blurry in that photo, so not 100%). I personally dont think I would put a newborn in there, however, my 5 and 7 year old sons have ridden many times in the murci in a booster seat. Thanks, Jon

Thanks Mr. Obvious.... Pretty sure anyone who owns these cars is well aware of the difference... all I was pointing out is that both cars have effectively the same top speed in each gear which has led a few people to believe that the transmissions must be the same gearing (many many people and lambo techs told me this). But when I researched it I found out it was different gearing. The 'evidence' people would give me as to why it was the same transmission is that in all the spec sheets the cars do the same top speed in each gear. So for simplicity I gave a simple answer as to why that was not the justification... I wasn't at all inferring they took the same motor and just raised its red line.

Where ya been stranger? BTW, obviously I'm up and running, (TWICE now I have done this), are you at least done with doing this ONCE??!!!

Well the other option is that the sensor pickup location is different and so its getting proper readings, but they are for an lp640 and so the murci doesnt know what to do with them. We have to do some troubleshooting, so LARA is coming out to play. We will try to isolate where the issue is. Just curious if someone has already faced this problem and solved it, which would save us diagnostic time. Thanks, Jon PS. I have been talking to JeffLambo and he's been a great help, much of what I try is coming from his direct guidance, we are very lucky to have him here on the forums!

Or if you own a roadster like me, and there is PLENTY more room (even with the top on. So yeah, not everyone has a coupe

So here is the scenario and I am going to guess I am likely one of the few (well second confirmed) person to have this issue: I swapped out my 06 Murci Egear 6 speed, for an 09 Murci Egear. 2 reasons: Number 1: It (just like its little brother the differential) is stronger in the LP640 over the Murci, and since I went to Kevlar clutch I needed all the assurance there is. Number 2: LP640s actually have SHORTER gears then the Murci, so you in theory are doing a gear swap when you move up to the LP640, the reason the LP640 still does the same speeds in the same gears is that they moved the REDLINE up. Anyways, I like the snappiness of the shorter gears, ESPECIALLY since I am running 20's, and this effectively put me back to the original ratio as the Murci with 18 inch wheels. This will make my clutch life better as well. NOW the problem: I am obviously blazing new territory as I dont think anyone else has converted a Murci driveline into an LP640 driveline (probably because it doesnt make financial sense unless you have to replace the parts anyways). But I have done it, and it would seem my egear computer doesnt like it after 1st gear. It goes into 1st gear no problem and reverse, and you can drive no problem in either. But using the padels to select the next gear up (say second gear), it acts like you didnt even ask it to (almost like when you are going too slow to upshift it wont do it). The interesting part, is if you put it into 'slippery/wet' mode (that button on the right with the lambo doing a burn out' the computer can switch it all on its own, no problems. Then if you take it OUT of that mode, you have FREE rein to now manually select the gears as you like..... UNTIL you stop the car (at say a red light), and then it goes back to just allowing you to select 1st and reverse, until again you hit the slippery button, start moving, and then turn it off, and then you are back to full control again. Basically the button is overriding something. Anyone ever have a problem with going into SECOND gear (people with issues going into reverse is a totally different issue, and unrelated). Thanks !! Jon PS. My lambo tech and I are planning on flashing the Egear control unit to an 07 model and see what it does.

yeah 09+ is by far the best system, its definitely the way to go if you are doing egear, Bosch and Lambo got it right with this setup, really smart how the throttle bodies, transmission and engine all work together in these cars. Congrats! As a side note, anyone who breaks their regular murci diff, I have a spare one ))

What year car? IF you are early Murci, with egear and with that kind of traction (sticky tires) and 'grab' you will get from the Kevlar clutch, you will be the perfect use case for my hypothesis that all early murci's will eventually break their rear differential with RWD conversion, as its a matter of time, not 'if' (Whiteout disagrees, and I respect that, because he hasn't had any issues with his early murci when he did RWD). I know I am the naysayer, and it sucks (for me), but I am glad people are respectful about my alternate opinion, makes it easier to share. Also I am quite well versed in swapping major components out of these cars now, so anyone ever need questions about that stuff, ask me.

What the heck! Why wasnt I invited to this conversation, I'm mentioned at least twice Guys I appreciate the respect, I realize I have experiences that are different then others, and lord I sure wish I didnt have those experiences. But I absolutely broke TWO Murci Differentials while doing RWD. I have since swapped back to AWD and now run an lp640 rear differential (drive wise, you cant tell any difference, but the output shaft hubs are stronger. I'm not going to wish it on anyone of course that something break, but on early murci's I'd be more worried about the conversion. The LP640s differentials are more stout on the output shafts (about their only real difference), and so the OP should be fine. As far as OP loving the setup and not seeing any issues with the Egear, so your telling me your not getting any 'bucking' ??? Did you have your egear PIS changed? OH or are you one of the lucky 09 owners (which my understanding is thats THE best year for egear programming). So maybe your cars egear program is sophisticated enough to manage the change. The early non LP cars just dont know how to change from having that heavy driveline to a lighter one, and so you get some odd bucking during the summer when you run them hard. Once it cools down, it goes right back to normal. I wish all my Murci Brethren the best of luck with modding and what not, but all I can do (and I hope everyone does it as well), is share experiences. Yes, I also converted to 9 inch wide front tires, with 265 rubber to help get more footprint up front. Happy to answer any questions folks may have. As far as unstable going to RWD, I never had that issue, I loved the excitement of tossing the ass around, its like someone said above, Italian Viper. Good Analogy. The only negative I had with RWD was in the rain, you definitely cant take off or accelerate as quickly, and yes two broken differentials. If it wasnt for those two issues, I'd still be RWD, its a ton of fun. Oh and 1 more thing, I've also converted to an LP640 transmission, which I am sure few know has SHORTER gear ratios, so it gives a little more PEP to a non lp640 car, as now they have more advantage over the tires Thanks, Jon

Look you and me not agreeing .. so rare I am not feeling those wheels at all. They probably are fine on a GTR or Porsche, but seem out of place on the murci, and those rear wheel side walls look like the Pillsbury dough boy. But that said, I am sure with that much sidewall, its got to help to reduce the stiffness of the ridiculously harsh Murci Suspension.

345/30/20 will NOTTTTTTT WORK boys Ask me how I know Physically they fit (barely, in STATIC FORM), but Jesus you literally have to remove fender screws on the rear half of the inner fender well to avoid rubbing, I got them to 'roll' on the car but only about 10 feet from my garage and then had to back it in (I never got to check with active suspension if they would fit (bottoming out in the fender stuff). The MAJOR issue, is to get a MATCHING set of front tires that WONT fry the AWD, physically cannot fit in the fenders IF you plan to ever TURN. (But again, even RWD only guys are LIKELY going to have fitment issues if you ever hit a bump and the wheel/tire package move further up into the rear fender well) Been there, done that. I did come up with a set ass setup eventually to get 'as much tire' under the car as possible, but it required staying with Pirelli's 345 and 265 fronts (which required front a 9.5 inch front rim modification, so again not recommended). I LOVE my handling and driveability now, its night and day from what it was, BUT it came at the expense of a lot of trial and error and lots of $$$$ lost in testing scenarios. lol. Jon

Anyone who buys a car or ANYTHING else from Dr. Asshole (I mean Dr. Murcielago) is an idiot, he is well known to be a shady azz mofo, and so if the PRICE is what gets you to deal with him, get ready for the REAL cost to hit, when you realize what a pile of shit he just sold you. Stay far far away from him. Total piece of shit, yes I have dealt with him.... unfortunatly.