E-gear light- really irritating now

I am really having a hard time with this E-gear light now.

 

Here are the symptoms:

 

• An orange light comes on
• It reads "E-gear" with a lightning bolt looking line
• The transmission won't shift into Reverse

 

Everything else works fine. The E-gear pump seems strong and shifts are crisp.

 

So, looking for some help diagnosing this problem.

 

It happens about 50% of the time when I drive.

 

It's less likely to happen on a COLD morning.

 

There is DEFINITELY something going on with the voltage or draw on the rest of the system. When I turn on the headlights, the E-gear light goes away for a while. Also, if I start the car with the A/C or amps on- the E-gear light stays on until I disconnect the battery even if I turn off the A/C and all of the other electronics.

 

Sometimes when I hit a bump in the road, the E-gear light comes on.

 

Changing the battery was helpful, it didn't come on for about a week. I've tightened the battery lugs multiple times.

 

I've taken it to the dealer and there is nothing apparently wrong with it. They ran LaRas or whatever it's called and nothing seemed amiss.

 

I would just "drive around it" except for the fact that when the E-gear light comes on, I can't put it into reverse.

 

Do you think it could be some sort of short in the power system? Is there anything obvious I could check? I'm really at wits end with this problem.

 

When people have had E-gear pumps go out in the past, what were the symptoms of E-gear pump failure?

 

 

BTW- I did find a loose plug a few weeks ago, and I thought that was the problem. I reconnected it but still having the problem.

Check grounds to motor and chassis also positive cable connections and any plug in harness connections you can access .

Could it be a brakelight swith ?

I don't know where the ground is- but that might make sense. Anybody know where the different chassis grounds are?

I don't know where the ground is- but that might make sense. Anybody know where the different chassis grounds are?

 

I know there are two in the rear of the car by the starter - One on each side that goes directly to the frame rail.

It sound like a loose ground. When the pump is going bad or the actuator is bypassing pressure the lights around the 123456 indicator will flash. There are three ground wires on in the front on the frame rails. If the trunk is removed the frame rails that faze inward three different ground each with multi wires going to it.

There are also grounds at the back as well. If I have some free time I will try and see If I can find the ground for the pump and the accuator.

Okay! Yeah if someone has pictures of the grounds and where they are located I could check that out. I have the manual. I'll check that out too.

 

I wanted to give an update. I am absolutely certain that it isn't something wrong with the pump itself. What triggers the e-gear light to come on (at least initially) is when the car is no longer flat, smooth and level. So if I am traveling up or down a hill, or if it hits a bump.

 

If I'm traveling on a flat surface the light goes away. If I hit a bump, or go up or down a hill- the light tends to come on. Though not EVERY time.

 

Thanks for everyone's help here!

 

 

Perhaps the e-gear reservoir has a low fluid sensor on it that closes when you have a change in incline? Did you check the fluid level?

Perhaps the e-gear reservoir has a low fluid sensor on it that closes when you have a change in incline? Did you check the fluid level?

 

No I didn't! Where is that reservoir? I don't recall seeing it?

No I didn't! Where is that reservoir? I don't recall seeing it?

 

My 04 was a six-speed, so I'm not positive, but I believe it is on the passenger side engine compartment, behind the plastic engine trim cover.

My 04 was a six-speed, so I'm not positive, but I believe it is on the passenger side engine compartment, behind the plastic engine trim cover.

 

 

Correct. Remove the side engine bay cover and the res. is right there. Black. you will need a 10mm wrench to loosing the bolt on the side and the res will side out so you can removed the cap and check level. How many miles on the car. You could have a slipping clutch.

So I wanted to give an update on this to help anybody else that has had this problem.

 

After looking really closely at the warning light it looks like an electricity dipped icon. It's hard to explain, easy to understand when you see it.

 

The squiggly line up and down looks like electricity, then there is a line which appears lowered- thus, the E-gear has lowered electricity. That's my take-away.

 

I also noticed that the car is very hard on batteries, sometimes straining to start if I don't drive it every day.

 

So, I started hooking it up to a battery tender every night.

 

NO MORE E-GEAR warning light. No more over-revving. Not one time since I started hooking it up to the tender.

 

I started thinking about it, and maybe what's going on is a bad voltage regulator or a bad alternator. Perhaps they aren't creating enough juice in daily driving to keep the e-gear pump happy and the battery charged. What I know is this: The E-gear light is directly associated with something in the electrical system. Now, finding this little voltage sucker is going to be quite another problem. I've hunted down electrical draws on my Ferrari and let me tell you something, that can be a full time job.

 

I just wanted to archive what I found as a a symptom and at least a temporary fix to the problem in case anybody else runs into it. The solution, long term, is going to be a hunting expedition I'm afraid.

 

I've got TONS of aftermarket radio/nav/satellite/TPMS/DVD player goodies on the car that could all be drawing too much current. Not fun.

 

 

So I wanted to give an update on this to help anybody else that has had this problem.

 

After looking really closely at the warning light it looks like an electricity dipped icon. It's hard to explain, easy to understand when you see it.

 

The squiggly line up and down looks like electricity, then there is a line which appears lowered- thus, the E-gear has lowered electricity. That's my take-away.

 

I also noticed that the car is very hard on batteries, sometimes straining to start if I don't drive it every day.

 

So, I started hooking it up to a battery tender every night.

 

NO MORE E-GEAR warning light. No more over-revving. Not one time since I started hooking it up to the tender.

 

I started thinking about it, and maybe what's going on is a bad voltage regulator or a bad alternator. Perhaps they aren't creating enough juice in daily driving to keep the e-gear pump happy and the battery charged. What I know is this: The E-gear light is directly associated with something in the electrical system. Now, finding this little voltage sucker is going to be quite another problem. I've hunted down electrical draws on my Ferrari and let me tell you something, that can be a full time job.

 

I just wanted to archive what I found as a a symptom and at least a temporary fix to the problem in case anybody else runs into it. The solution, long term, is going to be a hunting expedition I'm afraid.

 

I've got TONS of aftermarket radio/nav/satellite/TPMS/DVD player goodies on the car that could all be drawing too much current. Not fun.

 

You could have a problem with draw or you may have a problem with the + battery cable havign a resistance problem cuasing the slow crank. If the aftermarket stuff is not installed right these could cause the can bus stay awake which will drain the battery very fast. preform a draw test on the batt if you have a DVOM. If your higher then .40 ohms there is your problem. All you have to do is find what curcuit is awake.

 

So I wanted to give an update on this to help anybody else that has had this problem.

 

After looking really closely at the warning light it looks like an electricity dipped icon. It's hard to explain, easy to understand when you see it.

 

The squiggly line up and down looks like electricity, then there is a line which appears lowered- thus, the E-gear has lowered electricity. That's my take-away.

 

I also noticed that the car is very hard on batteries, sometimes straining to start if I don't drive it every day.

 

So, I started hooking it up to a battery tender every night.

 

NO MORE E-GEAR warning light. No more over-revving. Not one time since I started hooking it up to the tender.

 

I started thinking about it, and maybe what's going on is a bad voltage regulator or a bad alternator. Perhaps they aren't creating enough juice in daily driving to keep the e-gear pump happy and the battery charged. What I know is this: The E-gear light is directly associated with something in the electrical system. Now, finding this little voltage sucker is going to be quite another problem. I've hunted down electrical draws on my Ferrari and let me tell you something, that can be a full time job.

 

I just wanted to archive what I found as a a symptom and at least a temporary fix to the problem in case anybody else runs into it. The solution, long term, is going to be a hunting expedition I'm afraid.

 

I've got TONS of aftermarket radio/nav/satellite/TPMS/DVD player goodies on the car that could all be drawing too much current. Not fun.

 

You mentioned earlier a bump or change in inclination would induce the problem so I don't think charging the battery has any effect on the condition . Could it be the seasonal cooler climate we now have , you did state it didn't do it when cold .

When I had a bad brake light switch on my Murc it would only malfunction on a hot sunny day , in the evenings it was fine .

Just a thought .

 

 

 

 

 

You mentioned earlier a bump or change in inclination would induce the problem so I don't think charging the battery has any effect on the condition . Could it be the seasonal cooler climate we now have , you did state it didn't do it when cold .

When I had a bad brake light switch on my Murc it would only malfunction on a hot sunny day , in the evenings it was fine .

Just a thought .

 

 

Great thought. Thanks. I took the car for a 1+ hour drive today and it did come on about an hour into the drive. I hit a bump, and sure enough the light popped on. Arrggh. But, I was still able to put it in reverse with the e-gear light on which is a first. Normally I can't put it in reverse when the e-gear light is on. These electrical gremlins are a PITA.

 

 

Isn't "your squiggly line up and down", in actuality, the universal electrical symbol for a resistor ?

That E-Gear light is the same for any E-gear fault. It has nothing to do with the type of error.

Real quick update on what I believe is the likely culprit. The positive battery lead appears to be defective and when I clamp it down with a vice grip the voltage gauge stays above 14.5v

 

Hopefully this solves the problems. Parts are on order $150.