Charlie Report post Posted December 31, 2011 On my 2003 the TCS was horrible....it would always come on even when I first got the car with the stock wheels on it. I always drove it with TCS off because of this. Hopefully the newer LP's are alot better that the 2003's. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
donzikid Report post Posted December 31, 2011 All Murcis from '02 to '10 have 18s Ok, guess I got confused when you refered to the common 20/19 wheels earlier. Maybe on of my sensors is bad or a wire is off. Thanks I will post if I find anything. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
medici78 Report post Posted December 31, 2011 I have NO IDEA what the stock tire and wheel size was. The wheels on my 03 Murcie are from a much later year Murcie, different diameter... (18 inch) My tire size is: Rear 335/30/18 Front 245/35/18 IIRC, your year vehicle used a 235/35/18 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellomurci Report post Posted December 31, 2011 On my 2003 the TCS was horrible....it would always come on even when I first got the car with the stock wheels on it. I always drove it with TCS off because of this. Hopefully the newer LP's are alot better that the 2003's. I seem to remember either on this board or another someone saying that on their 03 murci manual they hated the TCS and always turned it off before driving as it was very intrusive. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellomurci Report post Posted December 31, 2011 found the thread but don't know how to link it. Searched "traction control" thread was started Aug10 2009 Jefflambo stated that this was a problem on all 02/3 cars and the dealer has a fix but most people just turn the TCS off, if it was me I would have the fix done as no Traction control could be bad news. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Report post Posted January 1, 2012 The fix for them was complaining to the dealer. The Dealer would then call some Lambo contact in New England or the east cost to get approval to send the dealer a less sensitive wiring harness that would replace the existing one (or something like that - was over 3 years ago so do not remember everything). A month later you would get this at the dealer, the dealer literally takes ten minutes to install it and the system would be less sensitive. It is still crap and still too sensitive. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.Wiggs Report post Posted January 1, 2012 The fix for them was complaining to the dealer. The Dealer would then call some Lambo contact in New England or the east cost to get approval to send the dealer a less sensitive wiring harness that would replace the existing one (or something like that - was over 3 years ago so do not remember everything). A month later you would get this at the dealer, the dealer literally takes ten minutes to install it and the system would be less sensitive. It is still crap and still too sensitive. Yeah, the Murci needs no TCS. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dj_Diablo Report post Posted January 1, 2012 D.Wiggs: Few questions... 1. How do you find traction in 1st and 2nd with the RWD mod? I've driven high-hp RWD cars all my life and the one thing I really love about the murc is that I can go WOT in 1st gear from a 5-10mph roll and the car will go a little sideways (until power is sent to the front) and immediately after the car will correct and propelled forward. Same situation in 2nd. In your car, if you were to go WOT in 1st at 5-10mph, how much of a disadvantage are you at? Is there enough weight in the rear to maintain decent traction, or is the car useless at full power in 1st gear? I've also got straight pipes, so that's an additional weight reduction in the rear, just like you. 2. Do you notice any high-speed stability changes with the 180lbs reduced frontal weight? There were mentions on some of the RWD threads that the front felt more floaty and not as glued to the road during high speed runs as before. I know you've gone to 200+, but still...? 3. I've seen your vids all over youtube. Were you running full straight pipes? ie: All 4 cats removed and straight pipes from the headers back? Did you have an X-pipe? Specs on exhaust would be great. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.Wiggs Report post Posted January 2, 2012 D.Wiggs: Few questions... 1. How do you find traction in 1st and 2nd with the RWD mod? I've driven high-hp RWD cars all my life and the one thing I really love about the murc is that I can go WOT in 1st gear from a 5-10mph roll and the car will go a little sideways (until power is sent to the front) and immediately after the car will correct and propelled forward. Same situation in 2nd. In your car, if you were to go WOT in 1st at 5-10mph, how much of a disadvantage are you at? Is there enough weight in the rear to maintain decent traction, or is the car useless at full power in 1st gear? I've also got straight pipes, so that's an additional weight reduction in the rear, just like you. 2. Do you notice any high-speed stability changes with the 180lbs reduced frontal weight? There were mentions on some of the RWD threads that the front felt more floaty and not as glued to the road during high speed runs as before. I know you've gone to 200+, but still...? 3. I've seen your vids all over youtube. Were you running full straight pipes? ie: All 4 cats removed and straight pipes from the headers back? Did you have an X-pipe? Specs on exhaust would be great. 1. Traction was just as good in 95% of the situations. If the road was a little slick, you might spin a little more and need some throttle modulation but not much. Mid-engine and sticky 345s are hard to break loose on a car that heavy (even with the mods). I could get it to slide a little in first and second at WOT occassionally, but never on good, warm tires. 2. None; that's because I re-dialed the suspension in to the RWD Diable SV specs. You need to lower the front some because of the weight loss; same for the rear. But with the right settings, the car felt just as planted; it just had much better steering response. 3. Totally custom straight pipes. No cats, no mufflers. Just a ceramic coated exhaust and X-pipe with a LP640 tip (also ceramic coated). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kipper Report post Posted January 2, 2012 1. Traction was just as good in 95% of the situations. If the road was a little slick, you might spin a little more and need some throttle modulation but not much. Mid-engine and sticky 345s are hard to break loose on a car that heavy (even with the mods). I could get it to slide a little in first and second at WOT occassionally, but never on good, warm tires. 2. None; that's because I re-dialed the suspension in to the RWD Diable SV specs. You need to lower the front some because of the weight loss; same for the rear. But with the right settings, the car felt just as planted; it just had much better steering response. 3. Totally custom straight pipes. No cats, no mufflers. Just a ceramic coated exhaust and X-pipe with a LP640 tip (also ceramic coated). Hi Wiggs I have an 02 Murci with a Tubi and was wondering what difference the sound would possibly be be if I changed from the stock tips to the 640 outlet the Tubi sounds OK but still has that typical burble that you get out of a V8 chev if you know what I mean especially at lower RPM I was in Japan today in a town called Shibuya and a white 640 cruised down the main street it was white Murci with a large wing it had a rear body kit and Black wheels not original, not sure if it is member on this site, anyway this car sounded insane, it is what most of us probably would like our car to sound like, although he was not giving it shit and just driving in traffic it sounded like an F1 with a 6.5 litre engine. wasn't able to get a pic Kipper Kipper Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
whiteout Report post Posted January 2, 2012 RWD is the BEST mod for the Murci. Traction is limited in 1st and 2nd gear. Most notably when the power jump midway through the powerband hits. But, I think the lack of traction is due to the Pzeros. My Viper, which made more torque than the Murci, would rarely spin the rears in lower gears, and it was on the same tires, just Michelin PS2s. The car is very controllable when the tail comes out. With power, it will get back into line very easily. It's much more easy to control than a viper is when the tail kicks out. I haven't notices snap oversteer at all either. I put 8,000 miles on my car in the past year; 5,000 of which was rwd. The car is much more enjoyable in every aspect, except snow, with RWD. It's faster, I net 15-17mpg on the highway, longer clutch life, better braking, easier to drive in the city, easier to get in motion from a stop, much more responsive, etc. The only thing that MUST be done, is turning off TCS when getting into the car. When TCS steps in on a RWD car, it can be dangerous for how much power it cuts. Nick Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
whiteout Report post Posted January 2, 2012 Hi Wiggs I have an 02 Murci with a Tubi and was wondering what difference the sound would possibly be be if I changed from the stock tips to the 640 outlet the Tubi sounds OK but still has that typical burble that you get out of a V8 chev if you know what I mean especially at lower RPM I was in Japan today in a town called Shibuya and a white 640 cruised down the main street it was white Murci with a large wing it had a rear body kit and Black wheels not original, not sure if it is member on this site, anyway this car sounded insane, it is what most of us probably would like our car to sound like, although he was not giving it shit and just driving in traffic it sounded like an F1 with a 6.5 litre engine. wasn't able to get a pic Kipper Kipper Changing the tip will not change your exhaust note. You would need to switch over to a different brand. I run LOC muffler delete and secondary cat delete. Which is much louder than stock, but not overly loud (I thought it was stock). SP Engineering is designing a full titanium exhaust, which IMO will be the best exhaust for the Murci due to the SP design, along with the weight reduction of titanium vs. stainless steel. There is some video of the noise from my car here (scroll through for Lambo videos): http://www.youtube.com/user/suboobaruwrsex...rt=p&view=u Nick Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.Wiggs Report post Posted January 2, 2012 Hi Wiggs I have an 02 Murci with a Tubi and was wondering what difference the sound would possibly be be if I changed from the stock tips to the 640 outlet the Tubi sounds OK but still has that typical burble that you get out of a V8 chev if you know what I mean especially at lower RPM I was in Japan today in a town called Shibuya and a white 640 cruised down the main street it was white Murci with a large wing it had a rear body kit and Black wheels not original, not sure if it is member on this site, anyway this car sounded insane, it is what most of us probably would like our car to sound like, although he was not giving it shit and just driving in traffic it sounded like an F1 with a 6.5 litre engine. wasn't able to get a pic Kipper Kipper tip won't change anything. You need custom straight pipes like I had RWD is the BEST mod for the Murci. Been saying it since '05!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
whiteout Report post Posted January 2, 2012 Also, you don't just pull the front halfshafts. They hold the front hubs together. So the factory halfshafts either have to be disassembled or Diablo SV halfshaft deletes have to be installed. A new halfshaft is about $1500 from Lamborghini. A new set of SV deletes is about $1000 from Lamborghini. I am a bigger fan of the SV halfshaft deletes than tearing apart the stock halfshafts. Nick Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
donnie Report post Posted January 2, 2012 Also, you don't just pull the front halfshafts. They hold the front hubs together. So the factory halfshafts either have to be disassembled or Diablo SV halfshaft deletes have to be installed. A new halfshaft is about $1500 from Lamborghini. A new set of SV deletes is about $1000 from Lamborghini. I am a bigger fan of the SV halfshaft deletes than tearing apart the stock halfshafts. Nick DWiggs is saying the mod is a couple hundred bucks - but now its just shot up to 2 and a half grand excluding labor I guess?..so 3K? What am I not getting? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.Wiggs Report post Posted January 3, 2012 DWiggs is saying the mod is a couple hundred bucks - but now its just shot up to 2 and a half grand excluding labor I guess?..so 3K? What am I not getting? It's only the cost of labor for 8 hours. We just coated the open part of the missing drive shafts; no need to get a special part. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
donzikid Report post Posted January 3, 2012 Also, you don't just pull the front halfshafts. They hold the front hubs together. So the factory halfshafts either have to be disassembled or Diablo SV halfshaft deletes have to be installed. A new halfshaft is about $1500 from Lamborghini. A new set of SV deletes is about $1000 from Lamborghini. I am a bigger fan of the SV halfshaft deletes than tearing apart the stock halfshafts. Nick Yep, my halfshafts were taken apart. If anyone has the halfshaft parts for sale that I need, let me know. I have the shafts but the joints at the outside end closest to the wheel were taken apart, and would like to have them. email if anyone has some they want to sell. [email protected] The pic shows what I need. (thanks Nick) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
whiteout Report post Posted January 3, 2012 DWiggs is saying the mod is a couple hundred bucks - but now its just shot up to 2 and a half grand excluding labor I guess?..so 3K? What am I not getting? If the Diablo SV half shaft deletes are not used, the stock half shafts have to be dismantled. A set of new SV half shaft deletes is 2/3 the price of a single Murci half shaft. So if there is no concern with returning the car back to AWD, then dismantling the half shafts is the cheap option. But if there is any concern about going back to AWD, then running the SV deletes is the way to go. Simply removing the half shaft is not the only step. It's only the cost of labor for 8 hours. We just coated the open part of the missing drive shafts; no need to get a special part. You went the route of dismantling the half shafts. Nick Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.Wiggs Report post Posted January 3, 2012 If the Diablo SV half shaft deletes are not used, the stock half shafts have to be dismantled. A set of new SV half shaft deletes is 2/3 the price of a single Murci half shaft. So if there is no concern with returning the car back to AWD, then dismantling the half shafts is the cheap option. But if there is any concern about going back to AWD, then running the SV deletes is the way to go. Simply removing the half shaft is not the only step. You went the route of dismantling the half shafts. Nick All we did was remove them; just as easy to put them back. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
whiteout Report post Posted January 3, 2012 You can't just remove them. The half shaft holds the brake rotor to the hub. So the half shaft has to be dismantled and the splines to the hub re-attached or simply put in SV hub deletes. Here's a picture of the hub with the halfshaft spline, but without the hub nut. The spline with the nut is what holds the brake rotor to the hub. There is also a ring on the back of the hub that is held in place by the spline of the halfshaft/SV delete. Nick Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.Wiggs Report post Posted January 3, 2012 You can't just remove them. The half shaft holds the brake rotor to the hub. So the half shaft has to be dismantled and the splines to the hub re-attached or simply put in SV hub deletes. Here's a picture of the hub with the halfshaft spline, but without the hub nut. The spline with the nut is what holds the brake rotor to the hub. There is also a ring on the back of the hub that is held in place by the spline of the halfshaft/SV delete. Nick Very interesting. I didn't physically remove them so I was unaware. What's interesting is that the people who did remove the 'stuff' off of both of my cars, never mentioned anything about that. Guess it was pretty easy. Good to know! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
whiteout Report post Posted January 4, 2012 If just replacing the half shafts with SV stubs, the install time should be 3-5 hours. Which makes sense for the time difference of dismantling the half shafts that it took your car to be completed. Nick Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Report post Posted January 4, 2012 Whiteout, you had to lower the front suspension and get a new wheel alignment correct? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
whiteout Report post Posted January 4, 2012 I still need to. I haven't lowered the car yet, I'll probably do it over the winter. It's just a matter of turning the coilover keys to lower the car and then get an alignment. I am going to lower the rear too. Dropping over 100lbs from the aftermarket exhaust has also lifted the car. Nick Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
untamed one Report post Posted January 15, 2012 Hi Wiggs I have an 02 Murci with a Tubi and was wondering what difference the sound would possibly be be if I changed from the stock tips to the 640 outlet the Tubi sounds OK but still has that typical burble that you get out of a V8 chev if you know what I mean especially at lower RPM I was in Japan today in a town called Shibuya and a white 640 cruised down the main street it was white Murci with a large wing it had a rear body kit and Black wheels not original, not sure if it is member on this site, anyway this car sounded insane, it is what most of us probably would like our car to sound like, although he was not giving it shit and just driving in traffic it sounded like an F1 with a 6.5 litre engine. wasn't able to get a pic Kipper Kipper You are hot Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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