Murcielago Maintenance

So spring is a couple months away, planning on getting at the Murci here soon and doing a little refresh. The car is an 06 Roadster with 12,000km's so everything is still fairly fresh. The Bull got a few oil changes already with motul 300V 5w-40 and seems to like it. My 05 Gallardo seemed to run better on the 8100 series not sure why. I ran the Sport filters in the Gallardo, they were an orange cotton material. The induction sound was awesome with the windows down, you could hear it suck air when you depressed the accelerator. So I found that Lamborghini did the same thing with the 670SV they made a sport filter to fit the Murci part #07M133843A, wonder if anyones used them? Also in the G I changed the Champion plugs for some Denso Iridiums with the heat rating from the 06 up Gallardo's...not sure why 04-05's used a way colder plug. At the time I also replaced the coils with the latest Audi 2.0T coils I belive they were the E revision. The car was transformed, much smoother. It was a manual and had an issue sometimes when parking where when you went from 1st to reverse the engine would stall... the plugs and coils completely cured that. So I picked up some Denso IXU24's (same heat at the LP640) a step hotter then the 27's in the 6.2 originally, hope its okay. I also found that Audi has released a newer coil for the R8 which apparently solves missfire issues and has increased spark power part # 06E905115E, might be a long shot but has anyone used these coils in a Lambo yet? For $240 it's smll price for once the plugs are out. One question I do have, is I'll be replacing the trans and diff fluids with Motul 300 Gear oil 75w90 and was wondering if the "plain" oil is correct or the oil with the LS slip modifier in it? Also has anyone used Castrol SRF brake fluid? Is it worth the premium? Braile batteries makes a group 34 battery that seems to have more jam then most group 34's and I've had a few E-Gear gremlins last year, thinking maybe the increased juice from a new batt my cure them...anyone know if group 34 will fit? I know lambo uses a Deka with some odd dimension, but it's impossible to find here.

So spring is a couple months away, planning on getting at the Murci here soon and doing a little refresh. The car is an 06 Roadster with 12,000km's so everything is still fairly fresh. The Bull got a few oil changes already with motul 300V 5w-40 and seems to like it. My 05 Gallardo seemed to run better on the 8100 series not sure why. I ran the Sport filters in the Gallardo, they were an orange cotton material. The induction sound was awesome with the windows down, you could hear it suck air when you depressed the accelerator. So I found that Lamborghini did the same thing with the 670SV they made a sport filter to fit the Murci part #07M133843A, wonder if anyones used them? Also in the G I changed the Champion plugs for some Denso Iridiums with the heat rating from the 06 up Gallardo's...not sure why 04-05's used a way colder plug. At the time I also replaced the coils with the latest Audi 2.0T coils I belive they were the E revision. The car was transformed, much smoother. It was a manual and had an issue sometimes when parking where when you went from 1st to reverse the engine would stall... the plugs and coils completely cured that. So I picked up some Denso IXU24's (same heat at the LP640) a step hotter then the 27's in the 6.2 originally, hope its okay. I also found that Audi has released a newer coil for the R8 which apparently solves missfire issues and has increased spark power part # 06E905115E, might be a long shot but has anyone used these coils in a Lambo yet? For $240 it's smll price for once the plugs are out. One question I do have, is I'll be replacing the trans and diff fluids with Motul 300 Gear oil 75w90 and was wondering if the "plain" oil is correct or the oil with the LS slip modifier in it? Also has anyone used Castrol SRF brake fluid? Is it worth the premium? Braile batteries makes a group 34 battery that seems to have more jam then most group 34's and I've had a few E-Gear gremlins last year, thinking maybe the increased juice from a new batt my cure them...anyone know if group 34 will fit? I know lambo uses a Deka with some odd dimension, but it's impossible to find here.

 

 

I was hoping someone would respond to this for ya, but it looks like its going to land on me Sadly I don't have a lot of these answers. I have a few. PASS on the SRF, its PURELY for track value, meaning sure you can drive it on the street, but you will NEVER notice a difference. It takes 2 types of drivers to see any value in the SRF on the track, a rookie, who uses his brakes so damn much they would boil with any other fluid (SRF is the best), or the TRUE pro driver, who is going to nail those brakes for all they are worth and is noticeably quicker then the rookie, and therefore has to scrub off a LOT more speed in the same braking zones. And now the bad part, SRF takes on water a lot worse, and corrodes a lot more, so its required that you change it out OFTEN. I used to race in Viper Racing League, so I used it all the time, when I was a rookie, and it was a god send, but when I got better, I switched to much cheaper motul and never had any brake boil issues. Short answer: Skip the SRF.

 

The filters, well I would say go with the tried and tru BCM ones that are about 200-300 for a set, they are a perfect fit, and are noticeably less restrictive then stock, but they are like K&N and totally washableable/reusable.

 

On the battery side, I went with the Interstate battery everyone recommended, but please note it DOES require some good grinding on the base, so it will fit, but its excellent battery. admittedly I wish for something with a bit more cranking amps when the car has sat for a few weeks, but for 'daily use' the interstate is on the money.

Thanks for comming through Jon! Yeah I'll pass on the SRf then, I need a fluid that will repel as much moisture as possible since the fluctuating temps and drain intervals. I ended up getting the UFI sport filters from Lambo, they look like the BMC's cost a hundred bucks more but wtf they're oem. I'm wondering if a stronger battery will cure some of my E-Gear gremlins..plus as you said when it sits for a couple days the started does a couple false engagements..kind of like if you twst and release the key 2-3 times quickly. Def dont want the calipers to seize on this bitch so thanks again for the SRF advice. I'll let you know if the new coils make a diff.

I am with Jon on passing the SRF. I use Motul RBF660. It's not much more than ATE or RBF600 but the specs are higher. Although i never had any issue with ATE and they are super cheap ($15-19).

 

I did pop in an interstate battery in. It seems to crank slightly faster but not significantly. The car has a generic battery before that was fairly new and could just be low on juice. So, jury is still out on interstate for me. No modification needed on the interstate but a piece of the tie down couldn't go in and wasn't really needed.

Yeah not sure why Lambo insists on such weird battery sizes. I find Motul awesome across the board. All my fluids are motul

I went with a MASSIVE Die Hard battery and it made the car run better and fixed my front suspension error light. But it weighs about 50lbs.

Even though these cars are very simple as far as electrical creature comforts they seem to have a massive thirst for electricity to run the mechanical bits. Nick, did you gap your plugs? 6.2 states 0.5-0.6mm LP640 states 0.7-0.8mm and the plugs come factory gapped to 0.9mm....

I did gap them down.

I guess just like women...u dont want the gap too big

I guess just like women...u dont want the gap too big

 

 

I guess thats only a problem if your spark plug isnt big enough ;-)

Haha Amen Jon

Back on topic , what kind of fluid changes do I need to do? I have a 2006 Egear, with about 9,000 miles on it, I am guessing Trans, (oil I do often), Probably a brake bleed, what about power steering? I already did rear differential. I don't have a front.

 

So is that all the fluids? Trans, Diff, engine, steering rack, brake. Anyone have the factory fill information on these, or better alternatives? The white stuff's days are numbered, I'm guessing in a few weeks I might be able to take the murci out of hibernation. So I should get this done now, during the 'down time'

 

Thanks,

 

Jon

So here is the manual...

Motul 300V fluids... 75w/90 will meet the specs.

I used Motul DexronIII for my power steering/nose lift. Aside from a damaged steering system, I have never flushed power steering fluid in a car, but I feel that the extra pressure on the fluid from the lift system warrants a change.

Yes these cars are very hard on fluids. Compressing the PS fluid for the front lift I would imagine breaks down the fluid. Being mid engine with an integrated rear diff I assume the heat wears the diff fluid down a bit quicker as well. Plus the shock loading of the e-gear shifting

I'd definitely change brake fluid if it hasn't been done in a couple of years.

 

Coolant may be due now as well. You can get a tester for $15 to see if ur coolant mixture ratio and condition is still good if you are on the fence.

 

For PS, it should last a long while. The lift isn't too hard on the PS as it's only running when lift is raised. Once raised, it locks into the high position until lowered.

 

While under the engine, I'd check for leaks and belt conditions. Do the same with brake pads and rotors when bleeding the brake fluid. You will need a long funnel for the brake resevoir.

Yes these cars are very hard on fluids. Compressing the PS fluid for the front lift I would imagine breaks down the fluid. Being mid engine with an integrated rear diff I assume the heat wears the diff fluid down a bit quicker as well. Plus the shock loading of the e-gear shifting

 

 

Solid points. I did my diff last year, so I am guessing 5k miles isnt enough to warrant a new fluid change

 

But Trans, I really want to do, its got 9k on it, but since im sure its original fill from 2005/2006, I am 'guessing' it needs changing?

 

What about antifreeze?

 

See the chart above is great, but it doesnt give you replacement intervals. The egear system, I believe is self contained and never needs fluid changing?

Solid points. I did my diff last year, so I am guessing 5k miles isnt enough to warrant a new fluid change

 

But Trans, I really want to do, its got 9k on it, but since im sure its original fill from 2005/2006, I am 'guessing' it needs changing?

 

What about antifreeze?

 

See the chart above is great, but it doesnt give you replacement intervals. The egear system, I believe is self contained and never needs fluid changing?

 

egear fluid isn't a DIY. you need a lambo computer to bleed. so it's done at clutch changes.

 

see my comment on the antifreeze. it's usually every 5 years or so

 

trans would be optional at 9k miles. it's not time based. at ur miles, i bet the fluid is still like new. it doesn't start to break down until 30k miles.

This is a great thread and so timely. Thanks to all for your posts and downloads for even as I have the manuals this gets me exactly where I need to go w/o searching.

 

Spring is coming despite waking to 16 degrees these past 2 mornings there is maintenance to do. Mine is an '03 Rosso Andromdeda w/63K miles and I just replaced the coils thanks to Nick (Whiteout) and what a dramatic difference. That coupled with Nick's trans cover to effectuate the RWD conversion at the end of last season have made this a whole new car. Picked up a set of used cats also as I was getting the CEL but it seems that the coils solved that problem and I will not touch them. Thank you once again, Nick. Now I'm slipping and sliding all over below freezing roads and loving it in RWD. Will never go back and will do some track sessions again to get re-acquainted with the car.

 

First, rebuild leaking left, front shock, then replace the bent connecting link on the same side that must have gotten damaged when I broke the front stabilizer which I replaced a few months ago. Then all the fluids, especially brake which hasn't been touched since the big Brembo front brake install about 5 yrs ago. I think I'll even do the cabin filter or is that a waste of time/$? Got 2 BMC air filters from Fast by Ferracci a few months ago for $110 for the pair that I will now install now that the Murci seems to be running spectacularly. What a great price and why they had them...?

 

Enjoy yourselves, boys. It's going into the 40's here in NJ today and I've got some work to do.

 

Also great thanks to JonV for his expert insight and advice.

I went with a MASSIVE Die Hard battery and it made the car run better and fixed my front suspension error light. But it weighs about 50lbs.

 

IMO the Sears Die Hard Platinum at around $200 is the best battery for the Murci-better than any other including Interstate. Explored Brain and the BS Optima and though it is heavy as Nick states at over 50lbs it has incredible reserve and, of course, the car SEEMS, to run better with it as well. Plus I have never had to use a Tender. In this outrageously cold winter I turn off the mains after each run and even after not being used for a few weeks it starts like a summer day.

They have Deka batteries in my city and its the cheapest. I also found Braille batteries has a lithium battery..it's $1300 but they say lithium power is cleaner then lead acid power and all of the electronics work much better. I'm trying to see if this will cure my e-gear gremlins

FYI, Braille is re-branded Deka.

Really?!?!