Old Guy Garage Report post Posted May 7, 2019 Here's the unit, exploded view, ready to assemble Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoKnow Report post Posted March 13, 2020 I'd like to thank everyone for their guidance in this thread. I'll post my comments on how to remove this thing and get it installed after the job is complete. I have it out... about it put it back in. I would however like to quash some misinformation. This is the part number of the starter and all it's details. I have done substantial research and am pretty darn confident this information is accurate. Item Name Starter Part Brand BOSCH OEM Numbers 016 016 104 / 07M 911 023 square jaw opening [degree] 340 ° Pinion Rest Position [mm] 21 mm Rotation Direction Anti-clockwise rotation Flange ⌀ [mm] 82.5 mm square mounting hole [degree] 20 ° Connecting Angle [Degree] 20 ° Position / Degree links ° Length [mm] 285 mm Clamp 30,50 Rated Voltage [V] 12 V Number of Teeth 9 Number of Thread Bores 0 Number of mounting bores 2 Bore ⌀ 2 [mm] 13.5 mm Rated Power [kW] 2.3 kW Bore ⌀ [mm] 13.5 mm Starter Type Self-supporting Supersedes 0 001 218 170 Cross reference and OE number list Manufacturer Part number AD KÜHNER 255225B AUTOTEAM SBO492 BOSCH 0 001 218 770 BOSCH EV (L) 12V 2,3 kW BV PSH 300.923.092.210 CASCO CST10492GS EAA EAA-121028 EAA EAA-121045 EAA EAA-121086 EAA EAA-121087 EAA EAA-121131 EAA EAA-121158 EAA EAA-121159 EAA EAA-121190 EAA EAA-121223 EAA EAA-121231 EAA EAA-121283 EAA EAA-121298 EAA EAA-121336 EAA EAA-121341 EAA EAA-121362 EAA EAA-121367 EAA EAA-121397 EAA EAA-121435 EAA EAA-121497 EAA EAA-121579 EAA EAA-121919 EAA EAA-121997 EAA EAA-122464 EAA EAA-122465 EAA EAA-122466 EAA EAA-122467 EAA EAA-122468 EAA EAA-122469 EAA EAA-122470 EAA EAA-122471 EAA EAA-122472 EAA EAA-122473 EAA EAA-122474 EAA EAA-122475 EAA EAA-122476 EAA EAA-122477 EAA EAA-122478 EAA EAA-122479 EAA EAA-122480 EAA EAA-122481 EAA EAA-122482 EAA EAA-141019 FARCOM 106249 VW 016 016 104 VW 07M 911 023 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoKnow Report post Posted March 13, 2020 As far as I am aware... this is a Lambo specific starter. I have been unable to find any other vehicle associated with ANY of the part numbers above. Prices range from $700-2000. I had my local starter/altenator rebuilder work on my starter. He identified two issues for around $150. 1. Solenoid failing 2. Bearing dry and needed lubrication He replaced my solenoid with the following part number ZF1975 Which has these as cross referenced numbers. 1319265 KHD 1011866 POWERMAX 1319265 KHD 137276 CARGO 227139 ERA 333141 CARGO 60-15-6646 WILSON 66-9189 WAI / TRANSPO 66-9189-1 WAI / TRANSPO 6660-2111 DIXIE 81011866 POWERMAX 9330331010 BOSCH 9330331510 BOSCH 9.40113E+11 MAGNETI MARELLI AME0418 MAGNETI MARELLI CSO10163 CASCO SND11020 WOODAUTO SSO10163 SANDO UD14446SS(ZM) AS-PL ZM1975 ZM Quick google showed that these solenoids are PLENTIFUL and around $20-30. With all this information I hope the community will be now more informed and understand that this is not some boogie man but rather CHEAP and completely DIYable. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoKnow Report post Posted March 13, 2020 Challenges getting it the starter removed. 1. The older your car the more likely the 2 nuts holding the starter down are seized 2. It took a substantial amount of torque to break these nuts 3. I would recommend minimum 10 inch 17mm/19mm wrench for the bottom nut 4. Top nut removal does NOT need camera I was able to repeatedly get my socket over the nut by feel alone 5. I tried removing the top nut with a breaker bar and the cavity did not lend itself to enough swing AND stability to break the nut (your experience maybe different depending on how seized the nut is) 6. I ended up using several swivels linked together plus another extension to get a 1/2 inch drive outside the cavity and THEN used my breaker bar... this worked for me. Final tip... don't bother using impact tools on the top nut if you have a million extensions linked up together. Torque loss through the chain will make this method a complete waste of time. Just get that extension with swivels snaked out of the cavity and go nuts with a breaker bar. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stimpy Report post Posted March 14, 2020 Great work, and thanks for posting, PoKnow! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LW Lambo Report post Posted March 15, 2020 Thank you. Great additional information on this DIY. I believe the next person performing this would have a much easier time. There is nothing like cranking a new/rebuilt starter with confidence that it will engage every time. To reiterate from everyone's experience who has performed this, the most challenging part is removing the top nut. And note that the top nut could be 17mm or 19mm. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
whiteout Report post Posted March 17, 2020 Great information, thanks for sharing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoKnow Report post Posted March 19, 2020 Don't know why LP doesn't let you edit your posts anymore... tons of typo's in my earlier posts that I'd like to fix. Most important is that my solenoid is a ZM1975 not a ZF. Challenges getting the starter installed. 1. Gluing/adhering the washer to the top starter hole. Use strong stuff as you'll be slipping and sliding this thing in and out to get the bottom washer/nut installed. It WILL get knocked off. 2. I ended up using a magnet attachment on my camera to get the top washer back ON the bolt... was a crazy hard carnival game but less difficult than trying to redo the bottom bolt (which sucked... see below) 3. Bottom bolt is extremely cramped for my hands as I DID NOT remove the oil line... I would say this is the ONE and ONLY true downside of not removing that line. You end up having to use your left hand to balance/finesse the heavy starter, while your right hand is barely on the nut and washer, as you're trying to thread it back on (both of which are trying their hardest to fly out of your grasp) It was painful enough that I elected to play the carnival game in step 2 vs taking the starter off and re-gluing the washer. 4. Top bolt... I ended up using the camera... I lucked out and with little effort the camera was looking at the bolt and my moving about to get myself and my tools in position did not jostle the view much. In my opinion the camera is ultimately optional but nice to have. I believe with some patience I could have gotten the nut back on by feel alone That's it... only 4... going on was much easier than going off. Everything else is pretty normal. I'll revisit this again in 10-15 years. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDragonmaster Report post Posted November 7, 2020 Has the LP640 the same starter as the Murciélago 6.2? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDragonmaster Report post Posted November 17, 2020 FYI: Is the same, ordered starter and friend has replaced It on mine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
F1Lambo Report post Posted July 15, 2021 This was so helpful and so useful. My 08 LP-640 is starting to click. Starter issues 100%... I'm going to follow this procedures mentioned above and get this going. Any Idea on the bearing part number? Or a rebuild kit I can buy??? I had a hard time searching for the solenoid today. But finally found it on a site. Cost more to ship the dang thing than the part itself. PoKnow - You are very good and through. I can't thank you enough! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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