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Guys - Can you tell me if this Murcie E-gear Issue sounds right?


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Hi guys. I am hoping this community of Lambo enthusiasts can combine our collective knowledge to help me solve an issue with my 2008 Murcielago LP640 (e-gear). Here's the deal (and sorry it's a novel)...

The car has around 20k miles on it. I was due for my NY state inspection, and I decided that rather than taking it to the independent exotic shop I usually use (who doesn't have a Lambo computer), I'd instead take it to the dealer so that I could have them connect to the computer and check the remaining clutch life.

Was a half hour drive there. Car drove perfectly normal same as it has for the past 3 years I have owned it. Stopped for gas on the way, restarted fine, drove to dealer with no issues. Car was awesome as always.

Dealer calls me 2 days later and tells me the clutch is done with 7.67mm after subtracting original and current, as shown here on photos the tech took:

image.jpeg   image.jpeg

 


OK... I knew the clutch was probably getting there, although generally I have had no issues. Once in a blue moon it would randomly switch back to neutral when I put it in first, but NOT flashing N indicating an e-gear issue. I always just chalked it up to the slightly clunky Murcie e-gear. But I knew it was about time for a clutch. So fine, the clutch is done.

HOWEVER, then he told me, "But when I first got in it after you dropped it off, when I went to start it the starter didn't crank the first few times." I asked him if he undid the immobilizer. "Yes. Then, when I went to put it in gear, it pops right back to flashing N. For either first gear or R. I have to hold the paddle to force it to go in gear."

(Now guys, this has NEVER happened to me. And now mysteriously after a perfect 30 min drive to the dealer that had no issues and felt just like every drive in the last 3 years, it coincidentally fails the second the tech gets in? I'm thinking WTF...)

So now they tell me that the potentiometers for the e-gear position sensors (front-to-back, side-to-side so it knows what position the shift rods are in) are also shot. He shows me this:

image.jpeg

 

Then he says, "Unfortunately, the potentiometers are not a standalone part; they are part of the actuator. A new actuator is $11,000."

Now I'm freaking. The clutch job just went up by about 50%.


So... I have read threads on here and other forums that say, "Unfortunately, yes, it's an engine out to replace the potentiometers. It's a cheap part, but engine out to replace. In the Gallardo you can reach them without dropping the engine."

I realize the engine needs to come out (for the clutch anyway), but I'm trying to figure out if I can replace these "cheap" potentiometers without replacing the actuator ($11k).

BTW, I don't think this is battery voltage-related. I keep it on a C-Tek tender, and in some of the photos the tech sent me the Lambo computer says "battery voltage 13.881v" or something. And the e-gear does prime when you open the door.

I'm also wondering... is there a chance he hooked up the computer and somehow cleared the e-gear learned slip position settings (PIS), etc. and that's why these potentiometers are now erroring?

Anyway... let's assume I need the potentiometers. I don't see anything in the e-gear section of the shop manual about potentiometers that can be replaced. I can't find any e-gear related potentiometers on the parts diagram on bullstuff.com.

Has anybody encountered anything like this? Can you maybe point me to the part numbers of the potentiometers? Or ANYTHING that can help? Or did you indeed need to replace the actuator? Or maybe if the just runs the self-learn procedure those potentiometers will stop erroring?

Thanks everyone for any advice you can provide!

-Jeff

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I'd put money on the hood being left open when it was popping back into nuetral and having to hold the paddle. That is exactly what happens.

The rest of it is a very complicated affair. I had various Egear errors, like it dropping into flashing N. They were 90% solved by fitting a new pump. It was always quirky on a long drive though & I have to say I don't miss one bit of the Egear. 

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I would contact this company http://www.gte-engineering.com/f1-actuator-rebuild.html and ask them for their opinion. They are THE experts on E-gear actuators and worst case can probably rebuild your current one a lot cheaper than getting a new one.

While engine is out for clutch and I assume throw out bearing as well (recommended to replace with clutch, although you could gamble and try to make it last another but not really worth it, mine was slightly leaking @ 20k miles) make sure to get a new e-gear accumulator (reservoir) as well. It's a cheap part that will break if not replaced at some point and it's engine out to replace it.

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1 hour ago, sprite said:

I would contact this company http://www.gte-engineering.com/f1-actuator-rebuild.html and ask them for their opinion. They are THE experts on E-gear actuators and worst case can probably rebuild your current one a lot cheaper than getting a new one.

While engine is out for clutch and I assume throw out bearing as well (recommended to replace with clutch, although you could gamble and try to make it last another but not really worth it, mine was slightly leaking @ 20k miles) make sure to get a new e-gear accumulator (reservoir) as well. It's a cheap part that will break if not replaced at some point and it's engine out to replace it.

OK. @sprite GTE looks really promising. Their reviews are out of this world. They are only 65 miles from my house (I am in NY). Sounds like I would be best to just bring the car there and have him do the clutch/TOB/etc. AND whatever needs to be done on the actuator. Thanks for the information. I am going to reach out on Tuesday. Sprite, if this works out beers are on me next time I am in ATL (my daughter goes to school at UGA). Thank you for your advice!

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On 7/2/2022 at 2:01 AM, Jeff DiBart said:

OK. @sprite GTE looks really promising. Their reviews are out of this world. They are only 65 miles from my house (I am in NY). Sounds like I would be best to just bring the car there and have him do the clutch/TOB/etc. AND whatever needs to be done on the actuator. Thanks for the information. I am going to reach out on Tuesday. Sprite, if this works out beers are on me next time I am in ATL (my daughter goes to school at UGA). Thank you for your advice!

No problem best of luck!

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The potentiometers are not part of the actuator. They can be replaced. They due go bad, I have replaced them many times. 

Part number for potentiometers is 086927321A  

Thats from Bull Stuf a little over 1K. Good luck with your repair I hope this info helps. 

I worked on Lambos for over 20 years at 2 dealers before I retired due to a injury. 

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