PoKnow

Beautiful drive this weekend ended on a sour note when my regulator made a snapping sound when I tried to roll the window up. Window is currently fully down and now it won't come up. I've taken the panels off to make see if the window simply fallen off the tracks. Unfortunately, this is not the case. Hitting up and down buttons I see the regulator try to move the cable for a second in either direction and stop. I'm thinking the regulator is has gone bad and may need to be repaired or replaced. So I have a couple questions. 1. Anyone have any tips on what else I should be looking at as far as probable causes? 2. What is the procedure to remove the regulator? Does the glass need to come out? 3. My window is stuck in a down position... the bolts that hold the glass are impossible to get to. Any ideas on how I can get my glass to move up enough to get my hands and tools on those bolts? Many thanks to anyone that can provide me with some insight.

Size? Specs? Offset? Etc? Are those your wheels?

Also wondering about the cost of the conversion vs some of the high dollar issues with the egear (actuator?)

More info on this please! I can't believe you don't need a 6mt tranny!

You are giving the Italians way too much credit. Motors with speed sensors. Then speed sensors detects no speed... CPU goes... ok time to cut power and the wing is now in up/down position. Yes... thats what you get on a 300k super car.

If you turn on ACC and the wing does nothing... and the warning light is off but the wing is up... the CPU thinks the wing is already down. Adjust the motors manually (by turning them) to make the wing close. If you turn on ACC and the wing does nothing... and there is a warning light and the wing is up... you'll have to trick the CPU into cycling the wing. Can try going for a drive make the wing cycle or disconnect the motors and turn on ACC. Goal is to get that light off. I've had this EXACT problem. Your wing will eventually attempt to cycle again... usually after a drive. If none of that works you need LDAS which is a huge pain in the ass. Seeing how your motor is not broken and if a dealer is near you.... easiest would be to have LDAS cycle the wing. That will fix it.

Correct... that reset method only resets the batwings. You'll have to follow my procedure.

1. Unmount the suspect misbehaving motor from the deck but not the spoiler and let it sit dangling on the exhaust shield 2. With both motors connected... turn on ACC on the car and let the motors cycle... once they have been cycled and the spoiler is now in a closed position. The CPU now thinks both motors are in a closed state. 3. Remove the rear deck and turn the motor clockwise or counter clockwise to adjust it to the appropriate length (you want spoiler is in a closed position) 5. Reattach motor to rear deck 6. Turn on ACC. Spoiler should not move. 7. Go for a drive... hit 70MPH... see if it goes up. 8. Slow down to 55mph... see if it goes down. There are many little steps in between... but this is the meat of the solution.

Wow... I thought my Larini sounded good. Damn man... damn.

Remove interior trim behind mirror. Tighten bolts... if that doesn't get it tight enough add foam padding on the exterior then tighten.

You need the 0,0. Those 2 clips will break again. It was poorly designed. Just dab some super glue at the center and it's done.

Those buttons are crazy expensive. I put a dab of glue in the middle where it contacts the actual button and it works just fine. Use googone on the sticky buttons. Put some muscle behind it and the rubber coating will come right off.

Chevy Sonic

http://lambodiy.blogspot.com/p/correct-tire-size.html Just need to make sure your ratio is within the acceptable range. The issue is calculated OD is not necessarily actual OD.

I've read a few threads here and there that people are having problems with their rear wing. Symptoms being the following. 1. Rear wing stuck in up position 2. Wing goes up and down over and over. This is due to the motors being out of sync and they start fighting each other. I noticed my wing was twisted from this push and pull. In my opinion this is a horrible design. Engineering one motor to perform this function would have been the smarter thing to do, especially when using a motor / speed sensor combo to determine min/max. As I was saying, at some point in time a component (motor... connector... wires... gfa... who knows) lost connectivity temporaily (vibration?) and became out of sync. In my case the speed sensor had failed inside the motor. I was able to repair the speed sensor electronics. I believe the cause in my case was the repeated heating and cooling of the motor electronics. Hopefully this helps some people out there and saves them 1200 bucks. Those things are 540 bucks a piece on please check with our franchised lamborghini dealer sponsors.com