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tpamurci

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  1. I have not heard of anyone being able to order those, or even an entire MED+immobilizers, in quite a while; few years. Parts have been really hard to come by post-covid since the factory's parts side, and sub-contractors, seem to only work when they want and give no guidance on when or if they'll feel like producing any particular part. I couldn't even get oem power steering hoses for my '03 recently; factory didn't have them, had no timeframe on when or if they ever would. bullstuff claims to have a single used one in stock https://www.bullstuff.com/med-2000-alarm-remote-control-programmed-pn-0061005005 If you have the PIN card you'd be able to reprogram it to match your system, although I think even a new one would require the pin card. If you don't have the pin card, you're stuck with what you have, replace the entire med+immobilizers, or rip the med and immobilizers out but then need an aftermarket door lock/unlock.
  2. In addition to the prior posts, I've found any cheap-o small jack can be handy to hold the trailing edge of the battery while you slide it half way out to get the terminals off. I jack it up to just the right height, slide the battery out to rest on it, get the terminals off, then lift the thing out. I haven't tried Die Hard but can tell you I've had bad luck with Interstate's batteries in my '03. I don't know if it's just bad luck, design flaw, or the alternator in some way, but I had two separate Interstate models gas around the positive post. One was noticed before it became a big problem because I was already in there looking for a small oil leak. Swapped it. Second one was noticed when the car would not start because it had turned the entire positive terminal clamp to mush. Of course since that assembly is part of the entire wiring harness, replacing it required the car going to a shop to put it on a lift because the bottom panel needs to come off allowing the harness to be replaced, since it connects to a fuse box on the firewall between engine / passenger compartment. Anyway, most recent battery I threw in there was this Duracell AGM model from Batteries Plus: https://www.batteriesplus.com/product-details/auto_light-truck/battery/duracell-ultra/sli34ragm I installed that one May of 2018 and zero issues so far. Have had the car for 12 years so I've gone through several battery change cycles.
  3. Past few cars I've sold have been via ebay but each has been outside of the site. You can list for free, and for this kind of car it never fails that you'll start getting messages with questions and offers and then just work something out with the right person in a way that both parties are happy with.
  4. I've got an MSI Racing exhaust plus stage 1 cat delete on my '03 and it screams pretty nicely; no idea if that company still exists or not as it's been on my car for 13+ years, or how you'd compare one to another unless you got a bunch of owners together. Maybe hit up a cars and coffee with a bunch of Murci owners and see who has an exhaust you like the sound of? Edit: that name seems to have come and gone, the entity currently going by MSI doesn't seem to have any relation to Lambo exhausts, so probably dead end. I definitely wouldn't spend 30k on an exhaust. On my Gallardo I put a titanium model on that back in 2007 and it was probably about 6k at the time.
  5. Just keep in mind that when things break, as they will on older cars, the costs of certain parts can be ridiculous if there is not a corresponding Audi part and/or a third party to do the service. A few examples of things from my '06 G Spyder 1) a/c compressor, parts/labor several thousand, where if it were a run of the mill Japanese family car, would probably have been a few hundred. 2) Passenger seat belt because retractor stopped working; $700 P&L. 3) Soft top hydraulic actuator failure; couple grand. Long term though the costs aren't that bad, they just bite you with big bills when they do happen; I've had my '06 since new, and in the 14 years, it's probably averaged out to $1k-1500/year, which is pretty reasonable. I've saved quite a bit by having a trustworthy third party place do most of the services.
  6. Hi all, been thinking about buying something new as I've had my cars forever compared to how long most people keep cars, 11 and 14 years, so I'm considering selling both. Curious if people are buying exotic cars during covid? Didn't seem to be many recent classifieds posts on the site. Obviously I can keep letting them sit as they've been doing if next spring/summer could see a better sale price, but would be equally happy to no longer worry about upkeep and insurance if it doesn't matter much either way. Would anyone have a very rough idea on a reasonable listing price for these? 1) 2006 Gallardo Spyder in orange (arancio borealis) with black interior / orange piping, 15,800 miles, only owner. Has '08 Superleggera wheels, Girodisc brakes, factory carbon fiber interior option, aftermarket exhaust. 2) 2003 Murcielago coupe, six speed, monterey blue / white leather, 17,800 miles, brand new tires, aftermarket exhaust. I bought this one in 2009 from JeffSD on here, but I think I'm the 4th owner. Thanks
  7. Your description of the e-gear problem reminds me of my friend Shamile's problems with the e-gear in his Murci Roadster (since sold). He did ultimately find the issue and have it fixed, after a lot of time and money. It may not be the same thing, but if you have an Fchat account, I'd message him to see; I feel like it ended up being something really silly and simple but was hard to find; here's his profile page https://ferrarichat.com/forum/members/shamile.2288/ My '03 likes to not always lock the doors, so I haven't had your problem with them remaining locked, but do have a similar issue with them simply not working properly in the other direction. Since it hasn't trapped me i haven't investigated further yet.
  8. Dramatically easier to get to the inside caliper bleed nipple by just taking the wheels off, so typically they'd be off unless someone's working on the car that just enjoys pain lol.
  9. The sensors are relatively useless, and love to wear through before the pad is anywhere near done. There is an audi part if you really want them. They have a boot connector that hooks into the car side but that's probably not the issue. They use a very small gauge cable and if it wiggles or gets bumped too much over time, from shop folks / detailers messing with, or cleaning, the rotors, easy for it to start fraying off the "sensor", which is nothing more than pad-like material the sensor wire is routed through. I bypassed mine and tied them off since I have my wheels off more than often enough to know when it's time for new pads.
  10. That title is pretty misleading, and certainly didn't require a video; is the purpose just to get Youtube click revenue? One sentence would suffice: I have no idea why anyone would ever get into such a situation to begin with, unless there are unscrupulous Lamborghini dealers out there telling naive customers they need a full rotor/pad replacement when machining would have been sufficient, and if that's the case, please call out those dealers. I believe carbon ceramic rotors can't be machined, so no reason to even mention those. If you actually need a rotor replacement, then the way to save money up front and long term would be to do it yourself and use an excellent aftermarket two piece product like Girodisc, as then you can not only send them back for machining, but they can also replace the rotor independently of the hat as needed, saving you even more. They're also not pointlessly drilled, providing even better longevity.
  11. The sensors are pretty easy to swap; pair of needle nose will normally do it, and I'd strongly suspect there's an equivalent Audi part number that will probably get them into the $6-10 range.
  12. I hate those buttons so much lol. Replacing them on my '03 now; one had the top just break off.
  13. I use the good ol' Battery Tender: https://amzn.to/2nR7laR I've had those on my '03 and '06 for the better part of ten years. The '06 has an Optima that is into year seven at this point, so I'm thinking of proactively replacing, but am otherwise super happy. I wired the quick disconnect through the battery access panel on that car. On the Murci, I just clip it onto the battery disconnect in the engine bay since I disconnect it whenever I'm not attaching the tender, so I just wanted to stay in the habit of always getting into the engine bay after a drive due to a battery drain issue on that car that I've never found the source of.
  14. If anyone needs the MED manual let me know; found out the hard way what it costs to replace the system, and immobilizers, when the prior owner doesn't give you the PIN card, but at least the all new alarm came with a manual lol.
  15. Cool thanks for the tip; last I had been told by a dealer was entire gauge cluster was the only way to get them. Would it be a nightmare getting the bezel off to replace one myself?
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