TSS

Hi terryjoint, Did you get the same symtpoms with your TOB problems?

I can’t recreate it at will and it only did it twice but it wasn’t a nice feeling. It really felt as if there was something rock solid under the pedal. However there was no accompanying sound as if the pedal was actually hitting anything. The reservoir on the Master cylinder is full so no problems there. Is there a reservoir on the slave cylinder as well? I do sometimes get groceries in my Countach but I put them in the boot :-) I’ll do another “can of soup inspection” later but I couldn’t find anything in the footwell last night. So I need to get under the dashboard and have a look around the pedal mechanism. Do you know if any of the mechanism near the actual clutch visible from the engine bay or under the car? Thanks

Not yet, is there anything specific on the hoses I need to check?

Coming home last night I was driving the car quite hard and suddenly when I depressed the clutch pedal to change gear it would only go half way. The next time I pressed the pedal it was normal. Then a few gear changes later it did it again. I slowed down and drove the car really gently the rest of the way home with minimal gear changes and it all felt fine. The clutch operated normally and felt normal. Usually my clutch pedal will depress all the way to the floor/bulkhead. When this problem happened it felt as if there was a brick under the pedal – it went half way and stopped absolutely solid. I’ve checked the clutch fluid and that’s fine. I’ve had a play with the pedal by hand and can’t find a problem. Later I hope to have time to have a good look above the pedal under the dashboard. Has anybody had this issue before or have any suggestions what could be causing it? Thanks TSS

Mine is exactly the same.

Thanks Mike, that's what I needed to know.

Please can anybody tell me if they know of a replacement for the fuel pumps on a 1989 Countach? I’ve found these on ebay: With the part number 006222416 for USD586 each! But these are silver and round, whereas the pumps on the car are rectangular in shape and bolt onto the tank. Are the parts shown on ebay the internals of the rectangular pumps on the car? And can anybody suggest where to get them cheaper? Thanks in advance, TSS

Hi Martin, On my car they are definitely Hella Comet 450 lights. When one of mine got broken I noted down the serial numbers on it and after a bit of Googling found out what model they are. The ones I bought (from ebay) are an exact match to the ones on my car. It is possible that some Anniversary cars have different lights depending on what Lambo had in stock at the time! I’m sorry I can’t give you serial numbers as my car is away for a service and some upgrades at the moment. I’m sure somebody else on here could give you the numbers off the lights on their car. TSS

On the Anniversary the front flashers (“visual horns” as the Italians call them”) are Hella Comet 450’s. I bought a pair on ebay when one of mine got cracked by a stone. There are some for sale now: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HELLA-COMET-450-HALO...A1%7C240%3A1318

On my 1989 Euro spec Anniversary the dash lights and rear lights have stopped working. The front lights pop up and work fine. I’ve checked all the fuses under the glove compartment and the wiring connection on the light switches. In my manual there is no mention of a relay for the rear lights/dash lights. All the indicators, reverse lights and fog lights work fine. Does anybody have any ideas where I should be looking next? Thanks, TSS

I had several hours of fun with this problem last month. I couldn't understand why the plugs wouldn't engage with either of the sockets I had. I eventually figured out that the plugs are an unusual size: 18mm across the hex. This requires a "12mm" socket - I have no idea why it's called a 12mm socket when the size of the hex is 18mm. As soon as I got hold of one of those the plugs were easy to get out. According to the shop I bought it from this size plug is usually used on motorcycles and most cars have either a 10mm or 14mm plug. I’m sorry I don't know what the imperial measurements are because it's all in metric over here, but I hope that helps.

Thanks Jingjok, that's really useful.

Could you tell me where you got these? Did you just change the bulb or the whole light? And do they require different wiring? My headlights are almost useless above 50mph unless there is street lighting. Thanks, Tom

August 1983 I was 9 years old and in the back of my dad’s car driving through slow traffic on a beautiful sunny day in London. We passed a bright red Countach just parking up on double yellow lines. The car must have been near enough brand new as it had an A registration plate and A plates were only released on 1st Aug 1983. The doors went up, a young guy got out with his girlfriend and they walked off leaving it parked there. Obviously I’d heard of Lamborghinis but I had never seen one on the flesh before. Not only was it the most amazing vehicle I’d set eyes on, but the owner was probably no more that 30, had a cute looking girlfriend and had just left his brand new supercar parked on double yellows and walked off like he didn’t give a f#ck. For a nine year old car mad boy this was all seriously cool. I knew then I needed a Countach badly. When I saw Cannonball Run I knew it had to be black. Throughout the 1980’s I read the motoring pages of my parents' Sunday Times each week looking for Countach adverts. Occasionally one would come up for sale and I’d dream of how to make the cash to buy it. It took me over 20 years but I got one in the end!

I know the owner of that Countach, his car is almost identical to mine. He had had blue lights fitted for fun (I believe by the same people that supply the UK police) and had a bespoke roof bar made up that replaces the original panel just behind the cockpit. It is certainly a very professional installation. He has sometimes come to shows dressed as a cop.

I was looking into this for my 1989 CT last year. I managed to track down two guys who worked on CT sound systems in the 1980’s (one of them now works for Alpine). Often they ripped out the stereo it came into the country with and put in a higher spec model before the buyer took delivery. They both said that the Lamborghini factory used to put in whatever stereo Alpine had going cheap at the time so there is no specific model which is correct – apparently the factory fitted ones were sometimes a couple of years out of date. Fortunately I have the manual for the original stereo for mine and I managed to find the right model on ebay for £20! If you discover the model you want but can’t find one, try putting a saved search on ebay and it will email you when somebody puts one up for sale, this is how I found mine.

If it is the pin then it’s worthwhile getting a metal working shop to make you one out of really high quality steel rather than the OEM stuff which is quite poor. I did this and the cost was about £20 (about $40).

Eurospares had them in stock when I called a couple of months ago. They are not cheap though! http://www.eurospares.co.uk/partsListing.a...amp;ID4=1549504 Has yours broken or don’t you have one at all? There are people who can possibly repair broken ones. e.g. http://www.speedograph-richfield.com on the UK. Two people who’ve seen speedo angle drive on my Countach said it looks like a Triumph part so it could also be worth trying some Triumph spares stockists. Let us know how you get on. Tom

Sorry CountachQV, I just ran a check on that plate and it's actually registered to a 1982 Vauxhall Cavalier.

Those are UK plates. The Y at the end signifies that they were issued in between 1/8/1982 and 31/7/1983. The WE at the beginning denotes that the car was probably registered in or around Sheffield, Yorkshire.

I’m using Castrol Syntrax Universal 75w-90 at the moment. It hasn’t made the shift any smoother than the Agip gearbox oil I had in it previously, but it seems to have made the transmission vibrate and resonate a bit less at high RPM.

Thanks for the replies. After much deliberation we decided to go with Castrol Semi-synthetic 75W/90. We drained the gearbox last week and it seems there was about 2.2 litres of oil in it (before we initially topped it up) when there should have been 3.2 litres. The good news is there was very little swarf in the oil we drained out. We filled it right up and I’ve done about 300 miles this weekend. The gearbox sounds much, much better. Now I just have to keep an eye on the oil level and make sure it’s not going anywhere. PS Chad, thanks for the tip on shifting from 1st to 3rd until its warmed up, I’ve started doing that now.

I recently had my 25th Anniversary serviced. Everything was normal for about 250 miles then the gearbox started to get noisy in 3rd, 4th and 5th. Last night I took it to a friend who’s a gearbox design engineer for a listen. He immediately said “oil”. So we checked the oil. Doing this in the street outside his house it wasn’t possible to get the car level so we had to check it with the car pointing down onto its nose. This would have made the oil level appear higher than it actually was. It took 0.5L (about 0.13 US Gallons) of 85W/90 he had in his garage. If it had been level we could have put some more in so it must have been quite low. We took it for a drive and the noise was significantly better. There is no sign of any leak out of the gearbox. So assuming it was filled properly at the service, where could the oil be going? If it wasn’t filled properly at the service, why would the noise only start after a couple of hundred miles? I’m planning to drain it completely and refill it with the car level so I know for sure it’s full. What oil do you guys recommend? The manual says Agip SAE 85W90 and I think that’s what was put in it at the service. However I’ve discovered that there are actually 2 types of Agip SAE 85W90 (Rotra MP and Rotra MP-S, see below for full info) so which one would you use? My gearbox expert friend recommends trying Castrol Semi-synthetic 75W/90, I trust his judgement but as he has no previous experience of Lambos I wanted to get a few other opinions. Any oil advice would be gratefully received. TSS The two types of Agip SAE 85W90: AGIP Rotra MP *SAE 80w-90, 85w-140, mineral /AGIP Rotra MP is an EP (Extreme Pressure) gear oil recommended for hypoid gears operating under severe conditions and for very highly loaded gears in general, especially those subject to dynamic loads. It can also be used in conventional gear-boxes and steering-boxes on cars and trucks, and in gear-boxes, final drives and power take-offs on farm and earth-moving machinery. It can thus be used for lubricating all gears, whatever they are made of, for which the manufacturer recommend an EP lubricant. /API: GL-5, MAN: 342; ZF: TE-ML 1/5/7; GM: MS 9985 290; MIL: L-2105D; VW: TL 727/726; VOLVO: 97313/97314; CHRYSLER: MS-5644; OPEL: B 0401010; FORD: ESW-M2C-105A/ESP-M2C-154A/SQM-2C-9002A/9008A/9101A./ AGIP Rotra MP-S *SAE 85w-90, mineral /AGIP Rotra MP/S is a special gear oil with modified EP (Extreme Pressure) characteristics. It is particularly recommended for lubrication of limited-slip differentials and associated hypoid gears, subject to high dynamic loads at high sliding speeds between gear teeth and at high temperature. In general, AGIP Rotra MP/S is suitable for those transmissions where manufacturers suggest lubricants having antistick-slip properties. /API: GL-5, MAN: 342; ZF: TE-ML 1/5/7; GM: MS 9985 290; MIL: L-2105D; VW: TL 727/726; VOLVO: 97313/97314; CHRYSLER: MS-5644; OPEL: B 0401010; FORD: ESW-M2C-105A/ESP-M2C-154A/SQM-2C-9002A/9008A/9101A./

Thanks!!

Thanks RomanDad, that’s really great. What’ the logo on the blue lid? It doesn’t look like a Lamborghini logo but in the pictures but I can’t quite make out the writing. Does it have any other marks or an indication of where it’s from on it? Thanks again, TSS