del mar

Evening, whilst waiting for the starter motor to be repaired i thought i would tidy up some of the rear frame. The bit around the exhaust mounting and rear diff brackets are a bit rusty. Removing the rear bumper and exhaust tips ( Tubi) would give me clear access. The bumper appears to be held on by 4 bolts two either side of the number plate and i guess one in the wheel arch ? I am guessing with the exhaust i just cut / grind the bolts out of the jointing doughnuts ? Any pointers would be appreciated. Thanks Del

Afternoon Was bored yesterday morning so I took the starter motor out. It was easier than changing the oil ! the car lives on a 4 post lift so I can sit on a chair and reach the starter motor. Getting the wheel off was the hardest part- it is just fiddly finding a jacking point on a 4 post lift. battery shows 12.68 and the car hadn’t been out for a couple of weeks. i didn’t remove anything, big oil line is still in place handbrake cable is still there. The front but 19mm spanner, the top nut 17mm socket. I could get about 2 clicks on the ratchet but that was Just enough to be able to ind the nut. I would have struggled without the inspection camera though. I reckon under an hour once I had finished p****ing about with the wheel. Hopefully the repair shop can have a look at it next week. thanks for all the suggestions and LW for his thread on removing the starter, will report back on the outcome. del

Thank you for your suggestions. I will start with the cheapest easiest option and work up form there. Battery is a few years old now, and I have never changed the key fob battery. Being on lockdown means I have the time to play with the starter motor, although the rebuild shop is closed ! Thanks Del

When it does fire it starts up without issue, when driving it charges at 14v. If it was battery I would assume it struggled to turn over but it fires well. the coils are 18 months old. The starter does click bit doesn’t always fire up. Now is that starter or the immobiliser not switching off? thanks

Morning, 2003 car. Getting trickier to start. I assumed it was the immobilizer as some random pressing of the button would sometimes illicit a response but it could be the starter motor on the way out. Has anybody seen immobilizer problems or is it likely to be the starter motor ? Thanks Del

I know it has been done to death.... we seem to have limited options in the UK. Pirelli p zeros seem to come in three different patterns Winter sottozero Assimetrico Normal - a poor description but a more open tread pattern than the assimetrico. Other than winter is there much difference between them ? thanks del

All done - it took some time to undo the locking nut rusty / stiff, but there is more tension in the cable now.

coils - just touch each of the manifolds with your hand, the one that doesn't burn your fingers is the one that is failing !

Thanks will have a look this weekend. If anybody is ever interested i have recently changed the coolant - not a difficult job.

Afternoon, Mine is fairly useless.. Is there much adjustment on it, and has anybody adjusted theirs ? Any guidance would be appreciated. Thanks Del

Morning, I am sure i have read both 10.5l and 12l somewhere ? I have done it before but cant remember how much went in. Thanks Del

It is almost 30c in England at the moment !! I have a 2003 car, where are the valves to regass the air con ? Thanks Del

Morning, Previously I have had them "locked" in the open position but for the last year or so they have been in auto mode. I took the car out of the garage on Saturday and one side instantly opened, it will not go down. When you turn it off and remove the key it stays up, its default setting is up. The other side operates normally. I have removed the ram and motor and you can see that the motor will only turn in one direction, irrespective of whether I have pressed the button to close or not. What has gone wrong here, can the motor "fail" and not reverse, or does the system need locking in open and then resetting ? Motor looks nothing special a small 12v one. Thanks del

$50 - $75 ??

Mine 2003 have always been hit and miss. I gently pull mine in when I press the button - or get my son to help doesn't do any harm - Gently being the word just to start / assist the motor.

The before and after pictures are like those from fitness videos. Different angle and different lighting, makes it difficult to appreciate the improvement. I could shed 50lbs with the right lighting and angle....

Mine were rated at 1150nm, I got a company in the UK to make some at 1200nm. Still cheaper than Lamborghini. Del

Evening, Scanned and it revealed no codes, but with no cels I would expect that. What next ? Do I run it at idle to see if ot would generate a code ? Hopefully without blowing the engine up !! Thanks

Evening On the way to mot it didn't sound great, possible misfire. Mot tester said left bank was fine emissions on the right bank was jumping around and was difficult to get a steady reading. It still passed. Driving home once over 4000 revs it sound better less lumpy, but the right bank cel came on followed by the right cat. Limped back to garage. The right cat was glowing (under its metal cover). Let it cool for 30mins and limped home without a problem, it felt rough but no cels. Car is a "2003 coupe update". Will it accept obd ? nearest dealer -10 miles. Sensors ? Coils ? Cat itself Neither sound cheap ....: Thanks

I have a 6.2 on a four post lift - it is tight. The sills covers infront of the rear wheelS are the area you have to watch...... I raise the front drive on and then open the drivers door and look back at the rear wheel/ sill cover. If I get the sill within 1 inch of the structure the other side will be fine. Wheel refurbs are cheaper than resprays!

I think they are just push fit poppers, protect the edge of 11 and pry it up.

I have had all of mine off. I can't remember how I did it. I think you remove the storage compartment first. Take out the furry plastic tray and there are screws underneath that. this should allow you to get at the back of the part you need to remove. Once you remove the gear lever I think it is just pulled backward. https://www.eurospares.co.uk/parts/lamborgh...ing-trims-26675 10,11 and 15 to 18. need to come out ..

I had a look at mine last night. The rear diff could be moved back about 5cm. The casting it sits in is part of the engine casing, so i think it will be very difficult to get out in situ. If it slides in and out you will need to remove either the gearbox or the rear diff to get at it, which you cant do without removing the engine. The shaft obviously fits into the gearbox at one end and diff at the other, and is then supported by 3 bearings. for one bearing to fail would that really be a disaster as long as the other two are ok ? Would it be worth the risk to wait until you need a clutch ?, what is the worst that could happen......... del

The ashtray is a plastic mechanism with a heavy metal lid glued on it. The Lid is Lamborghini the ashtray Audi parts bin. I assume that the weight of the lid eventually causes the mechanism to break. If you take it out it has an Audi part number on it.

It has an Audi part number on it. The one in my 6.2 was from an Audi A6 rear door ashtray - GBP18 on ebay. Del