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cclassics

LP Member
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  • Location
    vancouver

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  1. looking for a shop manual - paper or electronic-
  2. well i hope whoever is interested does some research to see what they paid.. i assume it was sealed bid so no one else wanted to pay more- asking prices are different but really 150k more than they paid is stupid - my first thought was 275 was too high considering it was sold as is with no records and unknown condition due to the seizure.
  3. so i guess now we wait to see who posts it for sale next month!
  4. Jon whats the color code on the viper? and as for the stable change- i wouldnt jump yet unless you have to have the P. it will depreciate a LOT and IMO better to keep what you have- its always nice to have a vertible in the stable- i have 4 of them.. actually my only coupe is the murcie. will the Demon be allowed on the track >? i know locally theyre saying even stock cars need a cage if they are faster than 10 secs now-- id skip on the demon and wait for the performante spyder and/or a significant price drop- -
  5. take out LOL.. thats if you can reach high enough to pass them the money.. ive never been brave enough to try it myself-- also too many curbs to make sure the nose misses it all.. good color choice - mines the same-- now i know what mine would look like with yellow calipers.. (black now) enjoy it-- im having a blast with mine
  6. voltage should definitely be 13+ volts when running-- mine will usually say 13.6 up to 14.. and 12.5 or so in the morning when cranking to start you can buy cheapo cigarette lighter test pieces for prob $15.. they will show charging if your not mechanically inclined-- but everyone should own a basic $5 to $10 VOM- volt ohm meter-- i even keep one in the kitchen drawer to test batteries in remotes before replacing- and check new ones prior to install- if you had that you could put the probes on the batt terminals and see voltage changes - also most battery shops will test your charging system for free -
  7. would be really interested to see if someone does one-- personally i drive my cars so i'd take a "converted" car anyday F430 or murcie etc to drive - i almost bought the parts to do my 430- (but its not having issues right now) but then bought the murcie that same week ..
  8. they are cheaper per shock from Glen.. @ AMH than bullstuff.. at least the reply i got from him today was over $25 a pair less
  9. wheres best place for struts -- my drivers door needs a slight push up to get moving so its on my winter upgrade list
  10. ugh no fun.. im quite interested to see what they find after its out-- got offered an 05 egear murcie yesterday for a decent price - almost too good to pass up so i may have to get it..
  11. i have a friend who builds GTRs and they easily get 1000 whp -- they blow up transmissions at that and need to be fully built to handle it
  12. i feel your pain-- i had a similar issue with my 430 and while its fixed now the stress of it acting up made me not drive it far from home even after it was fixed for fear it would leave me stranded. hence why i just got a manual murcie
  13. that may be the first upgrade after i go thru this car a bit-- did all fluids yesterday- need to get center caps on and then brakelight- thats it till end of summer then will look intosome upgrades.. radar- stereo and 2wd
  14. found hella part # but havent found local supplier yet 2 da 005 739 111
  15. is the murcie third brake light easily located or from another car? mines corroded on the pcb board and need to replace that with leds or the entire light assy-- where can i get one.. thanks
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