Jalpa_Mike

I have no idea..... I suppose anything is possible. With the introduction of the Diablo, they moved over to electronic fuel injection, so I wonder if someone could retrofit the Diablo system onto a Countach? Might be possibble...... Mike

No, the cold start injectors just dump more fuel into the intake manifolds along with the fuel from the injectors. So, it just runs rich until the car starts getting warm. Funny thing, I know several owners who just unplug the connectors and not use the cold start injectors and the car starts and runs just fine. Just as a test one time, I pulled one of mine off and put a glass bottle under it. I started the car and it was pretty interesting to see the fuel coming out of it. It was a nice atomized spray pattern, so I knew it was OK. After the car warmed up I started the car again and no fuel came out of the cold start injector, so I knew everything with the thermo-time switch was OK. BTW, if your Thermo-Time switch ever goes bad. You don’t have to pay Lamborghini the outrageous $600+, its the same switch used on the Alfa Romeo GTV6 and can be purchased for around $130. Mike

K-Jetronic is a mechanical fuel injection. It was a big thing back in the day.... it was used on Saab, Volvo, Mercedes, Porsche, DeLorean, BMW, Ferrari and many other cars during the 70’s and 80’s. The only electrical elements in the system are: 1. Cold Start injectors which are operated via a thermo-time switch located in the thermostat housing. When the engine is cold, the thermo-time switch sends a signal to a relay with opens and allows the cold start injectors to operate. Once the engine is warmed, the thermo-time switch closes, the relay shuts off the power to the cold start injectors. 2. The O2 sensors in the exhaust send a signal to the respective computer box (behind the right rear trunk panel) which causes the frequency valves (basically an additional fuel injector) to open or close depending on whether the mixture is too rich or lean. The fuel injectors on the Countach have a spring inside them and are fopened by fuel pressure. This is one of the main reasons fuel pressure is so important on K-Jetronic cars. Attached is a photo from the K-Jetronic service manual describing the fuel injector with a nice diagram. Mike

Crikey

Just saw this '98 SV Monterey Edition sold at BJ for $236,500.00. Wonder how reliable it is with those twin Eaton Turbos? http://www.barrett-jackson.com/Events/Even...IABLO-SV-195913 Mike

Just on the other board, this hammered at €600,000 ( €672,000 with fees). That equates to around $760,000.00 US! http://www.rmsothebys.com/mc16/monaco/lots...30-jota/1079713 Mike

Just to back up Roman's findings. I went out and measured mine and it is also 7" Mike

This was the best I've seen on wing restoration. It is over on the other forum F*Chat. Bothe AviatorBobby and Petrolfumes did their wings. Lots of photos and explanations of the process. Both opened their wings, got rid of the polystyrene packed inside. If this link doesn't work, just go to the site and search for thread # 368554. https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/lamborghi...-corrosion.html Mike

I remember coming up to your showroom a couple years ago Roy and checking out the Diablo 6.0's you had for sale. I was amazed at how much more room there was inside compared to my Countach. It was at that point I decided that when I'm ready to move on from the Countach, I would replace it with a 6.0. Everything about the 6.0 was nice. It had A/C that actually worked, the clutch didn't take Hulk Hogen to push. Everything just felt more "refined". But then again I guess it should, since its 15 years newer than my Countach! LOL! Mike

This seems to be a nice example. Lamborghini Montreal has had it for awhile and price seems about right: http://www.lamborghinimontreal.com/en/used...0l-v12/6472368/ Mike

I forgot to add, that I am not sure if the Diablo uses the same switch as the Countach. I haven't had a chance to look. I just know all the Countach varients used the same switch. Sorry for the confusion!

Looks like I can't use that URL.... Here was my original post and photo. Just found out that the Backup Switch for the 5000QV (the one that screws into the Transmission), is an Alfa Romeo and FIAT direct replacement. Lamborghini Original (2409895) is a SIPEA 7820 which is $95.00 Replacement is a Facet 34266000 I got mine for $13.50 from International Auto Parts. Alfa Romeo and Fiat Backup Light Switches Just replaced mine and it worked like a charm. Here is photo, new Facet unit on the left, OEM SIPEA on the right:

Yes. It is a Sipea 7820 unit used on Alfa Romeo and FIAT's Here is a link to the other side with a post I made several years ago, ahowing the units side by side. http://www.another board/vbforum/f4...3504/#post98805 Mike

Here is the ad from the dealer: http://classiccarslist.com/lamborghini/212...with-story.html Also, doing a search on the phone number shows a business called "Autohaus Los Gatos" 3275 Winchester Blvd Campbell, CA 95008 Mike

Ted is a funny guy. I met him back in 1988 and bought a 1980 Maserati 4Porte from him. A few years later I bought a '74 Mercedes 450SL from him as well as an '85 Maserati Biturbo and a Jaguar XJ-6. He is quite the character. He is an ex-Boxer and has made several movies over the years. Check out IMdB for such gems as "Scarecrows" and "Hammerhead Jones". Mike

I had the door tied up while I changed the strut. After I finished, I took the rope off and started putting the door panel back on. I heard a small "tink" sound. About the time I realized it was the little circlip that held the door strut in place, the strut popped off and down it came. I'm pretty confident the rubber weather seal saved my fingers! If there would have been no weather stripping, I think the door would have cut right through the fingers! I remember there was a lot of blood! First thing I did was wiggle my fingers and was shocked they weren't broke! I wrapped my hand in a towel and drove myself to the ER. The lesson learned? Never reuse a circlip! Use a new one! LOL!! Mike

Yes! Tie the door up! Ask me how I know......... Mike

Have you checked with Steve at Interstate Motorsports? He is currently showing (2) 1991 examples, a 1992, a 1995 and 1997. Not sure of the prices: http://www.interstatemotorsport.com/new-je...ake=Lamborghini Mike

Very cool!!! After I finish mine, I want to do the Aventador next. Mike

This is the TPMS I bought for our RV. It works great! I run the RV tires at 100psi, so this unit is fantastic for monitoring all 6 tires. The only thing that would suck about using this on the Countach, is the transmitters screw right onto the valve stem. I would think they would look silly on a Countach, whereas the RV tires are so big you don't notice them! LOL!! I wonder if you can get the TPMS sensors that mount inside the wheel (like my Maserati Quattroporte has)? http://eezrvproduct.com/TIRE-PRESSURE-AND-...EZ-RV-TPMS6.htm Mike By the way, I run my Countach with 38 front, 40 rear.

I posted these over on the F-Chat site. This is a good visual so everyone knows what we are talking about. You can use the Marelli cap from the late model XJ-S (1989 & 1990 model years). You just use the center coil connector. Some folks just jam a rubber plug into the second coil receptacle to keep out moisture, etc. Bear in mind you can't use the late model XJ-S rotor in the Countach (unless you have someone like Chad modify your distributor to accept it) The early XJ-S Cap & Rotor will not work on the Countach (I've just included those so that folks can see the difference with the later model Marelli equipped XJ-S cars). The 5000S, 5000QV and 25th Anniversary all use the same cap & rotor.

Great size comparison! Mike

Forgot to attach this photo from the parts manual. You can see what there a proportional valve should look like. It is part number 16 in this diagram. Mike

I think if you follow those wires further done, you will find that they connect to a pressure valve that is just behind e steering rack. Its a big brass valve that should have 4 rigid brake lines coming in and out of it. I believe there is a male spade connector coming off it where the Orange/black wire plugs in. The black ground wire attaches to the stud which holds the valve onto the frame. I believe my valve must have gone bad at some point, and the previous owner replaced it with 2 brass connectors. Here is a photo of what mine looks like. Mike P.S. My stupid iPad always rotates the photos 90° so that's why it looks funny

Wonder if someone could take a look at their Countach and tell me where a wire goes? I was out cleaning the car today and noticed I had a wire that was disconnected and I can't find where it goes! It is the wires on the Brake Master Cylinder reservoir that sends a signal to the "BRAKE" light on the dash should the fluid level drop below minimum. The black wire is still hooked up. It goes to a ground post. However, the Orange w/ Black stripe is the one disconnected. Here it is with its female connector Thanks! Mike