Engine running on one bank

I have plenty of fuel at the rail, and have spark on all 6 wires, but cold exhaust. I have a CEL that says low voltage at the 02 sensor, but I think this is a symptom of something else, since they are new, and I assume they really don't do anything until the exhaust warms them and then they send voltage to the ECU with instructions?

 

I also have a P1602 code "CAN line communication fault"

 

Any ideas?

I have plenty of fuel at the rail, and have spark on all 6 wires, but cold exhaust. I have a CEL that says low voltage at the 02 sensor, but I think this is a symptom of something else, since they are new, and I assume they really don't do anything until the exhaust warms them and then they send voltage to the ECU with instructions?

 

I also have a P1602 code "CAN line communication fault"

 

Any ideas?

 

If it's running on 6 cilinders, it might well be one of the 2 coils that has failed. They are on the left , when standing behind the car.

 

EDIT: Just noticed you do have sparks on the plugs, in that case I don't know what it is, sorry

I have a CEL that says low voltage at the 02 sensor, but I think this is a symptom of something else, since they are new, and I assume they really don't do anything until the exhaust warms them and then they send voltage to the ECU with instructions?

 

If the O2 sensor wire has three wires (two plugs), the single wire plug supposedly heats the plug when cold. I am not sure if that is 100% correct, but I remember reading something about that somewhere.

 

Here is a pic showing the two plugs: http://www.as-motorsport.com/webshop/produ...oduct=100711943

 

 

^^ Along those lines. With the new O2 sensors, did you have to play a guessing game between white and gray wires and maybe lose that game? i.e. 'not sure how you worked your connections or if the late model D's are different, but if you ended up with a useless extra wire, is that connected to anything or did you try experimenting with that wiring?

Have you checked the fuses that go to the left bank ecu, and the right bank ecu?

Located in the engine compartment, on the left side. Several fuses located in a panel ...I think it is #6 and #7 location....if one is blown, it will give you the exact symptoms you are describing.

^^ Along those lines. With the new O2 sensors, did you have to play a guessing game between white and gray wires and maybe lose that game? i.e. 'not sure how you worked your connections or if the late model D's are different, but if you ended up with a useless extra wire, is that connected to anything or did you try experimenting with that wiring?

 

They're plug and play, no guessing.

 

Have you checked the fuses that go to the left bank ecu, and the right bank ecu?

Located in the engine compartment, on the left side. Several fuses located in a panel ...I think it is #6 and #7 location....if one is blown, it will give you the exact symptoms you are describing.

 

I have checked them, looks good. I need to check the injectors to make sure they're clicking, and see if there's a relay associated with them, but I'm beginning to think I have an ECU problem. That's about as bad as it gets! I swapped the cables and it seemed like both sides ran rough rather then just one, so inconclusive. I swapped them back. The car barley has 15K miles on it.

You need to make sure that you have voltage at the fuse's. You can have a good fuse if it does not have voltage at it is not going to run. A communication code is not a good thing on any car. Be careful on switching to ECU's If a sensor shorted out one ECU you don't want to trash the other one.

You need to make sure that you have voltage at the fuse's. You can have a good fuse if it does not have voltage at it is not going to run. A communication code is not a good thing on any car. Be careful on switching to ECU's If a sensor shorted out one ECU you don't want to trash the other one.

 

 

A vaccum leak on the manifold will give an out off range reading for the O2 sensor, making it run on only one bank, leaving that exhaust cold.

 

Check the small vacuum hose joints on intake plenums, easy for one to fall off while working on the car.

A vaccum leak on the manifold will give an out off range reading for the O2 sensor, making it run on only one bank, leaving that exhaust cold.

 

Check the small vacuum hose joints on intake plenums, easy for one to fall off while working on the car.

I have not had a O2 sensor take out a complete bank, run bad yes but not a dead bank. At least not on other types of cars.

Check the phase sensors (cam sensors). Use a multi meter on ohms make sure they read about the same. If one is not working could case this issue.

Appreciate all the suggestions. I will check through it all.

 

What concerns me more is the P1602 code "CAN line communication fault" I think this is the root of the problem. Connections or the computer. I hate the idea of going to the dealer on this but I assume if it's the computer It will need the LDAS software to evaluate.

I have not had a O2 sensor take out a complete bank, run bad yes but not a dead bank. At least not on other types of cars.

 

The vac leak will cause the sensor sigal to lean out the mix, leaving it dead on that bank.

Had me very puzzled for 1min when it happend on mine.

Dear Lamborghinisti,

 

 

Would an "off" sensor reading from the O2 kill a bank? I've never heard of that. Usually a faulty reading from a cat sensor will turn off the bank....thinking it's overheating.

 

 

Shamile

Got confirmation the computer is out. Ugh! This is one of those things you don't think will happen to you. I can't believe you've gone through three of them Shamile. There's got to be something else wrong that's causing them to fail. George isn't real keen on DIYer's but that's understandable. This is something you really do need the Lamborghini LDAS software to not only fix, but to see if there's something causing it.

Total bummer!

That sucks! What does George think is the reasoning for the failure? Just age and bad luck?

He says it's a common problem, along with allot of other things. I was always pretty confident with this Roadster, now, not so much. CAT failure, computer failure, and climate control failure. All with less than 15k miles. I'll have to re-think taking it out on back roads. He says "DO NOT JUMP START WITH ANOTHER CAR". I never have. Any voltage spike coming from the other car's alternator can take out the computer. Use a jump box.

It would be useful to know what else might cause computer failures and/or contribute to short computer lifespans. Did George have any further comments on what is going on other than dumb luck?

No, I take it it's just not very durable.

Lamborghinisti,

 

 

Thanks for the update. These electronic issues really drive me nuts. What I'm finding is that over the years, mechanical parts, rubber, wire seem to be very reliable and replaceable. It's the electronic circuit boards and modules that are not. The problem is that increasingly, the cars won't run without the exact replacements. And like all Italian parts, they stop making them!

 

 

I am now on my 3rd GFA module ( Airbags car) at $3200.00 each. I need to start a new thread with my findings and see if I can pinpoint an issue.

 

Was your engine computer failure due to something specific? With only 15k miles, I can't believe it could only be static age. I have over 65K miles on my Roadster now so I can see flaky Italian electronic modules going out.

 

When those Murci's LP 640's and Aventators get up in age, I just wonder if they'll still be on the road. With the Audi era, I wonder if they finally changed over to Bosch electronics.

 

Drive your car more Rey....keeping in the garage seems to cost you just as much

 

 

Oh, and this what still keeps my 91 Testarossa in the garage. While the belt service might be expensive, it's still electronically simple....and everyday reliable.

 

 

Shamile