Allan-Herbie Report post Posted August 16, 2013 Any ideas on how to restore them to their original glory? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Netman Report post Posted August 16, 2013 Mine were removed and compounded and polished. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev99sv Report post Posted August 16, 2013 I have used a griots garage plastic cleaner. Really has worked well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hipresr Report post Posted August 16, 2013 If you need them polished, I source one of the best polishers this side of the Mississippi. Let me know. Plenty of pictures to back up my claims. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sudesh Report post Posted August 16, 2013 I just purchased these for my car, they didn't come on early models but can be fitted easily, quite cheap too. Was thinking of doing them in CF, going to install them today, and see if there is a real need for them to be as flimsy/flexi as they are. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SingleSeat Report post Posted August 16, 2013 Hmm, options, from least aggressive to most aggressive, - Buy new parts - Bondo Restore Black ( ), advertised to last for 6mo. Purely cosmetic approach, not sure as to heat resistance though. - Toothpaste as a polish ( ), might work, might not, depends greatly on the type of plastic and type of toothpaste. But, it's so cheap and non-aggressive, it might be worth a shot for shits and giggles. - Wet sand, polish, like other headlight repair processes. Wet sand in increasing grades. Make a mistake?...repeat the sanding process. Downside would be getting into the nooks and crannies that are still oxidized. Might try a 3M headlight lens restoration system kit too. - Brake fluid pre-wipe, then polish with some other polishing method (pre-test in hidden area first!)...starting to get toxic now. - Chemical home brews ( ), your mileage may vary. - Heat gun ( ), skill dependent, reorganizes the surface of the plastic but with a slight risk of damage. Don't let the plastic surface start to sizzle or look bubbly. Might last, might not, depending on the plastic type. The part might still become oxidized all over again in the future and you can't re-heat that thing over and over again or else it might break -- returning to option 1. Other: Krylon Fusion plastic paint, but again, this part is in the engine bay subject to high temperatures, so I probably wouldn't do this. No need to be a test pilot to see if the paint will blister or light on fire over such a minor cosmetic issue. Plus, paint is more of a commitment to permanence vice a reversible treatment. And, who knows, maybe the part is made from a type of HDPE that nothing in the known universe will stick to anyway. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
IlToro Report post Posted August 16, 2013 I wouldn't have any faith in any kind of polish. It might look good for a minute, but won't stay that way. Aside from replacing, Painting is the way to go IMO, Krylon Fusion has a Hunter Green that looks pretty close. I don't think heat would be a problem, but to test, spray the inside, install, and check it after a month or so. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
215mph Report post Posted August 17, 2013 "Back to Black" pick it up ant any Pep Boys. I think it is made by Mothers. Mine was the same way used this stuff and back to brand new. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allan-Herbie Report post Posted August 17, 2013 "Back to Black" pick it up ant any Pep Boys. I think it is made by Mothers. Mine was the same way used this stuff and back to brand new. Isn't back to black like an armor all type of product? Use it things like bumpers to make them black again? Isn't it somewhat oily and a short term cure? Or does it last? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SingleSeat Report post Posted August 17, 2013 I wouldn't have any faith in any kind of polish. It might look good for a minute, but won't stay that way. Aside from replacing, Painting is the way to go IMO, Krylon Fusion has a Hunter Green that looks pretty close. I don't think heat would be a problem, but to test, spray the inside, install, and check it after a month or so. Polish isn't a suggestion to eliminate the oxidization. Polish is the clean up from the wet sanding, which is what actually renews the surface. My main point on paint is risk vs. reward. Plus, when the paint gets tired or fails to stick to whatever-kind-of-plastic, then you're facing stripping it without hurting the part, sanding it down, or painting over it. Therefore, sanding and polishing is an experiment worth trying before committing to paint. You can get away with paint in many cases, but risk tolerance is personalized. Another person might cringe just the same at the heat gun idea. This is the kind of job where you can afford to play with it a little to see what works. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
215mph Report post Posted August 17, 2013 Isn't back to black like an armor all type of product? Use it things like bumpers to make them black again? Isn't it somewhat oily and a short term cure? Or does it last? Answer is yes and no. I only use a very small bit and it last for about 3 months, my opinion is it gives it a slight shine but not oily, that is why I only use a very small bit on a micro fiber. For detailing and prep for the various concourse shows I attend it serves its purpose well. So I am happy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allan-Herbie Report post Posted August 17, 2013 I dont think heat is much of an issue at the location they are placed in. Certainly not enough for paint to be an issue.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shamile Report post Posted August 17, 2013 Lamborghinisti, I just use simple green on everything in the engine bay to clean it down. I then come back with a can of silicone spray. After the first spray and drive, it will be completely absorbed. Spray a few more times and before long it will build up and STAY shiny. All the rubber and plastic in my engine bay stay shiny....evern with heavy Florida rain. Remember, I drive my VT Roadster as an absolute daily driver. Oh, it isn't oily or greasy. You can even come back and wipe down with a micro fiber cloth. The shine is in the plastic. Shamile Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sudesh Report post Posted August 17, 2013 Lamborghinisti, I just use simple green on everything in the engine bay to clean it down. I then come back with a can of silicone spray. After the first spray and drive, it will be completely absorbed. Spray a few more times and before long it will build up and STAY shiny. All the rubber and plastic in my engine bay stay shiny....evern with heavy Florida rain. Remember, I drive my VT Roadster as an absolute daily driver. Oh, it isn't oily or greasy. You can even come back and wipe down with a micro fiber cloth. The shine is in the plastic. Shamile Very nice and shiny Shamile! I'll be adding a clean down of the engine bay to my car at a later date. I think Diablos with the engine bay covers stay a bit cleaner in there too, I notice you car doesn't have the throttle covers? Did you remove them or is it something that wasnt on there? I though later cars with the bigger firing order panel had them? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
IlToro Report post Posted August 17, 2013 Yeah Shamile, it's easy to keep them looking new when you don't have them! LOL. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sudesh Report post Posted August 17, 2013 I was doing a bit of research, and it would seem that the throttle body cover only came on certain models, SE30 SV Although for 1998 SV, the parts diagram doesn't show the covers, but does show the brackets? Which is a bit strange as I've seen 98 SV models with the covers. Then for 1997 Roadster it shows the covers, but after 97 it doesn't? Seems to be a bit sporadic, plus different for each country too. I've just fitted them to my 93 car, pics over on the refresh thread Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
IlToro Report post Posted August 17, 2013 It might have something to do with VVT motors having them, and non-VVT not. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shamile Report post Posted August 18, 2013 Lamborghinisti, Very nice and shiny Shamile! I'll be adding a clean down of the engine bay to my car at a later date. I think Diablos with the engine bay covers stay a bit cleaner in there too, I notice you car doesn't have the throttle covers? Did you remove them or is it something that wasnt on there? I though later cars with the bigger firing order panel had them? Hey Sudesh, My 97.5 VT Roadster never came with them and I've never seen them except on 98+ SV's and 99 Roadsters. I kinda like it without them. Even though all the shielding protects the engine, I think it hides the beauty of all the aluminum castings. Here's a pix of the engine bay of my 91 Testarossa. I just love that raw hand crafted look.....kinda like the very early Diablos. Yeah Shamile, it's easy to keep them looking new when you don't have them! LOL. Haha....very funny Sez....the guy that never drives his Lamborghinis lol. I was referring to all the plastic and rubber in the engine bay. Once you scrub it down with simple green and a tooth brush, it will stay in great shape with the silicone spray. Shamile Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allan-Herbie Report post Posted August 20, 2013 So here is what I did... First I went over the top with 3m Rough Cut..... Then I went over with Meguires Fne cut... Finished off with Meguires yellow wax... All products I already had at home.. This was just an initial try, so I only went across the top.. Next I will do both entire covers. Looks pretty good inmo.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
IlToro Report post Posted August 20, 2013 I'd say it looks real good. Hopefully it will stay that way. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allan-Herbie Report post Posted August 20, 2013 I'd say it looks real good. Hopefully it will stay that way. Hopefully.. we will see.. But I guess if they fade back over time pretty easy to polish them again. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sudesh Report post Posted August 20, 2013 Great job Allan! Those came up real well, my NEW pair dont even look that clean lol. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shamile Report post Posted August 21, 2013 Lamborghinisti, Very Nice! Try a water test and see if it etches it or rolls right off. Shamile Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SingleSeat Report post Posted August 21, 2013 Solid. Every tactic would show degradation over time anyway. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
huntnphool Report post Posted August 21, 2013 Solid. Every tactic would show degradation over time anyway. I dont use mine either, I wash the engine bay every time the car gets washed to keep everything looking good. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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