Engine Out and Refresh!

If you want to go over-the-top while the engine is out. Get some foil-gold heat reflective tape and wrap the tunnel and rear firewall.

It will 1. keep cabin temps down and 2. look freaking awesome.

 

 

I hadn't thought of the foil gold tape but VHT does make a gold metallic high temp paint which I thought about using but I thought that might look tacky since everything else is now going to be blue and black really. Thought about using the gold metallic paint on the oil pipes. I don't imagine any tape or wrap will adhere well to the area I painted gray. It is a weird material it seems.

Brake caliper paint arrived yesterday. Used that to do the brakes and actually ordered a second kit but I was able to do 2 coats on everything which looks pretty covered to me. Then used a detailing paint brush (like for a model car) and paint the lines and Lamborghini script on the intake manifold. Then I still had some left over so I decided I would freshen up all the heat shields (half shafts, starter, and AC compressor). Planning to take the trans/bellhousing off tomorrow and paint the lips of the wheels.

 

 

Progressing nicely. I am enjoying the write ups, pics, and learning.

Thanks!

 

I just decided to check the continuity of the spark plug wires. The manufacturer website says a few hundred Ohms resistance per foot. But other places I'm seeing people say 0.2-0.4 ohms. Mine were all around the 0.2-0.4 ohms range. I would think logically this makes sense and they are good but am I missing something?

^No expert here but basic/common electrical knowledge would suggests that a few hundred ohms per FOOT is definitely not right for something that is suppose to be conductive.

 

The refresh is looking great, btw.

^No expert here but basic/common electrical knowledge would suggests that a few hundred ohms per FOOT is definitely not right for something that is suppose to be conductive.

 

The refresh is looking great, btw.

 

I agree. Oddly enough, I saw some places in my googling suggesting 4000 ohms per foot! I will just assume I'm fine lol.

Oddly enough, I saw some places in my googling suggesting 4000 ohms per foot!

 

 

Then those aren't wires; they are either skinny garden hoses or are poly ropes.

Haha. And thanks for the compliment! My "to do" list is shrinking. Paint the lips of the wheels, new power cables to terminal (switch), terminal (switch) to terminal, terminal to starter, battery ground to engine block, alternator cables. New vent house to the alternator, check my exciter wire wiring.

 

If I had just been doing the engine gaskets and checking the clutch, it would have been quick lol.

Went to take the bell housing off and it did not seem to want to come all the way off. Is there something I'm supposed to remove in terms of the driveshaft before I can pull the bell housing off? The bolt/sensor thing to the right?

 

 

Thanks!

 

I just decided to check the continuity of the spark plug wires. The manufacturer website says a few hundred Ohms resistance per foot. But other places I'm seeing people say 0.2-0.4 ohms. Mine were all around the 0.2-0.4 ohms range. I would think logically this makes sense and they are good but am I missing something?

 

 

^No expert here but basic/common electrical knowledge would suggests that a few hundred ohms per FOOT is definitely not right for something that is suppose to be conductive.

 

The refresh is looking great, btw.

 

 

I agree. Oddly enough, I saw some places in my googling suggesting 4000 ohms per foot! I will just assume I'm fine lol.

 

For what its worth the nuclear safety system cabinets I test at work have to measure less then 1.0 ohm between points to pass their continuity tests. I think your Diablo will be ok.

it is my understanding there is a ring nut around the drive shaft that needs to be removed with a special tool. Check with Glen of AMH or better yet I found this site

 

http://www.fixmydiablo.com/subscribe.html

27 bucks for a years worth of information does not seem like a bad price.

Thanks Hannibal and Netman. I'm sure Chad will know. I figured the gears just interlocked so they would separate freely in that direction. I don't recall anything being mentioned in the shop manual.

Thanks Hannibal and Netman. I'm sure Chad will know. I figured the gears just interlocked so they would separate freely in that direction. I don't recall anything being mentioned in the shop manual.

 

Glad to put work to use outside of work for a change!

I did see on an older thread on LT that there isn't anything special to remove to the get the bell housing off. It just takes some wiggling and elbow grease. But I'll wait until I hear for sure. I did finish painting the lips of the wheels a metallic black pearl which I think will look pretty good but they are still drying so I'll add pics tomorrow once I remove the tape.

Love the effort, but not feeling the blue on the engine. Maybe cause I'm use to seeing red.

Love the effort, but not feeling the blue on the engine. Maybe cause I'm use to seeing red.

 

I appreciate the criticism. Since the interior is red, adding red to the engine bay seemed like overkill to me. The only red thing back there previously was the Lambo script on the intake manifold. All the blue shields will barely be visible so I don't think it will looks too crazy with blue back there when it is all assembled but I had to pick something for replacements and didn't want everything black. It could look tacky once it is done, who knows lol.

 

Edit: Honestly I got red paint intending to do the intake manifold lettering in that but then I thought red and blue back there would be too much. But that will be easy to do down the road if I decide to.

Just found this thread. Nah, an hour ago I found this thread. Been reading since... And I can only say you're doing an awesome job! Thanks for letting us follow you!

Just found this thread. Nah, an hour ago I found this thread. Been reading since... And I can only say you're doing an awesome job! Thanks for letting us follow you!

 

I appreciate it!

 

 

Some of the radiator hoses came in yesterday. Just black hoses so not much to see lol. I think the wheels came out really well but of course it is hard to take a good picture of black wheels, especially in the garage and it is still raining out.

 

Forgot to mention that my injectors are in shipment back to me. I sent them to InjectorRX in Dallas or Houston (I forget which) last Monday and they were in and out on a holiday week so that's a pretty good turnaround. Total cost was $240.75. I'm told that some of my pintle caps had cracks and that flow had a 7% variance overall between injectors. They cleaned, flow tested, and new pintle caps and o-rings. Definitely a good idea for those of you that haven't touched the injectors in years and your car won't be down for long!

Well I decided to pop off the instrument panel and use the remaining carbon fiber wrap I had. Not sure why I didn't do this sooner. Bit of a pain to do a wrap on a piece like this with sooooooo many holes but I think it turned out decent. Also, since the shifter gate was already off the car and I had enough, I figured I would wrap that as well. We will see how they hold up!

 

 

Need a snap ring plier or just the attachment. Kind of an angled fit for the upper 2 screws holding the instrument panel on so be careful not to scratch the leather.

 

 

Once you pull it out, it's helpful to set it on a towel on the steering column. There are 5 little 8mm nuts and washers on the rear. 2 on the top toward the sides, 2 on the bottom toward the sides, and 1 closer to the top but underneath the temperature gauge area.

 

 

Once those are out, just lift the gauges and wires plate off and you'll be left with just the face plate. It was a little dark and I picked that up and flipped it and forgot about the 5 plastic spacers that separate the plates so I had to take a few minutes to find all of those.

 

 

Brought the plate and shifter gate inside and did the wrapping, using a heat gun occasionally around the holes.

 

 

Also the new solenoid arrived so I installed that in the starter. Kind of a bitch to compress that spring and try to mate those tiny little screws into the holes on the solenoid but that seems good now. Definitely going to test that before it goes back in the car!!

 

Wires, terminals, tool arrived, but still waiting for the spark plug boots to arrive. Might build the wires this weekend but it is supposed to be warm so I may finish up the painting I need to do instead.

 

Chipster, is the carbon film anything special, or just something like this...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4D-CARBON-FIBRE-...=item35c6f5219a

 

tempted to do my 99 dash in the same style as yours - looks very nice.

Well I decided to pop off the instrument panel and use the remaining carbon fiber wrap I had. Not sure why I didn't do this sooner. Bit of a pain to do a wrap on a piece like this with sooooooo many holes but I think it turned out decent. Also, since the shifter gate was already off the car and I had enough, I figured I would wrap that as well. We will see how they hold up!

 

 

Need a snap ring plier or just the attachment. Kind of an angled fit for the upper 2 screws holding the instrument panel on so be careful not to scratch the leather.

 

 

Once you pull it out, it's helpful to set it on a towel on the steering column. There are 5 little 8mm nuts and washers on the rear. 2 on the top toward the sides, 2 on the bottom toward the sides, and 1 closer to the top but underneath the temperature gauge area.

 

 

Once those are out, just lift the gauges and wires plate off and you'll be left with just the face plate. It was a little dark and I picked that up and flipped it and forgot about the 5 plastic spacers that separate the plates so I had to take a few minutes to find all of those.

 

 

Brought the plate and shifter gate inside and did the wrapping, using a heat gun occasionally around the holes.

 

 

Also the new solenoid arrived so I installed that in the starter. Kind of a bitch to compress that spring and try to mate those tiny little screws into the holes on the solenoid but that seems good now. Definitely going to test that before it goes back in the car!!

 

Wires, terminals, tool arrived, but still waiting for the spark plug boots to arrive. Might build the wires this weekend but it is supposed to be warm so I may finish up the painting I need to do instead.

 

Chipster, is the carbon film anything special, or just something like this...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4D-CARBON-FIBRE-...=item35c6f5219a

 

tempted to do my 99 dash in the same style as yours - looks very nice.

Chipster, is the carbon film anything special, or just something like this...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4D-CARBON-FIBRE-...=item35c6f5219a

 

tempted to do my 99 dash in the same style as yours - looks very nice.

 

It is just the 3M black Carbon Fiber DiNoc film. Now I believe they have a film that has 3D in the title and is a little more expensive. Not sure what the differences are but either should work. And there are other options besides 3M brand as well. Shouldn't need anything else other than a heat gun (I think my Kawasaki one was like $30 last year). I didn't use any but some of the 3M adhesive will only help but that is typically for corners or places where you need to stretch and manipulate the film.

Chad informed me that I need to remove the lever at the clutch slave to release the fork for the throw out bearing before I can pull the bellhousing/trans assembly off. Maybe i'll do that Wednesday if i'm not suffering from a terrible headache...

 

 

Fuel injector arrived back today with a printout showing the results. Two of the injectors were off by almost 8% and had poor spray streams. All new pintle caps and o-rings and looking good! Also the 2" hump coupler arrived. Waiting on the vacuum hose and heater hose but I can't use those till the engine is back in anyways. Hopefully ordering the gaskets I need next week along with Murcielago door struts and then that will be it!!! Except for fluids once i'm ready.

 

That last picture has you looking whiter then normal. Change your diet???

 

 

 

 

The light was burning my skin too