Andrew R. Report post Posted July 2, 2005 its taking noticably more effort to shirt into first, second, third, or R... any ideas? Clutch grab seems good & goes into higher gears easier than lower ones.. Anyone know anything about the syncos on the diablos (I doubt all my syncros went at once though)? What was that clutch linkage issue everyone was talking about? Symptoms? Any ideas? After looking at it more.. it seems to me like the clutch is not dis-engaging all the way. Maybe a bad pressure plate... or control rod that connects to the control arm on the trans is adusted improperly or lost adjustment. What a perfect weekend for this crap.. the weather here in Michigan is beautiful.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamlotus Report post Posted July 3, 2005 hey andrew ck the clucth fluid,if its low ur loosing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew R. Report post Posted July 3, 2005 Nope, fluid level is fine... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamlotus Report post Posted July 3, 2005 andrew is the clucth engaging all the way back?make sure ur floor mat if u have one is not getting in the way.if those are not u probably have something going on with your clucth set. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ecnal Report post Posted July 3, 2005 I could not tell from your post if the clutch pedal was different or not. If not, forgive me if this is too obvious, but is the reverse lockout on the shifter turned so that it is hanging up? I have seen people (mechanics) who should know better be fooled by this one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew R. Report post Posted July 4, 2005 I dont think it has anything to do with that... this is such a mess. what I know... -problem came on all of a sudden -the clutch is not fully dis-engaging when pressed to the floor -no slippage at all when driving -clutch fluid is level fine, cant find any leaks (wonder if I need to bleed it?) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamlotus Report post Posted July 4, 2005 andrew when u release he clucth does it go all the way back ?does it line up to the brake pedal? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew R. Report post Posted July 4, 2005 yeah, all that seems to be normal.. its I just need to push the clutch in a little bit more to finish the release, but its already on the floor... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamlotus Report post Posted July 4, 2005 andrew when u release it does itline up to the brake pedal make sure it retracts all the way back up,my 94 vt i have to push all the way down also,its the heaviest clucth ive ever felt Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
US/UK-Diablo Report post Posted July 7, 2005 Andrew. Sorry I could not write sooner as I have been in FL for the last week. Just my 2 cents but I had the EXACT same thing happen to me on my Roadster. Both times it was the clutch slave cylinder. Both times the clutch reservoir showed full or near full. One time (the second time) hard to engage gears and then all of a sudden it emptied itself on the floor. The last time I replaced slave and master. No problems since it's been over a year now. Forget about the syncros. The only syncro broblem is with the fork on first only. Happens on occasion but rarely. There is one other possible thing to consider. The arm from the slave to the pivot arm on the trans. These do break. Would not be suprised that one would bend before it breaks. They are under lots of pressure. Don't panic. Check/deal with these 3 things first. More likely one of these then a true trans problem. Let me know what you find. Dave. (Pocono with the silver 6.0) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
US/UK-Diablo Report post Posted July 7, 2005 Just read more about this on other posts. See that you had a clutch done. If master and slave are fine then the arm would be the best suspect. If I have it correct yours also has a pin on the end of the arm which rests on the piston of the slave. This pin needs to be correctly in line with the slave or it will bend or break. I know this to be fact as I learned the hard way as I replaced 2 pins in a mater of days because the alignment was off. :oops: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
L Diablo Report post Posted July 7, 2005 Agree with Dave above. Clutch slave or pivot arm... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew R. Report post Posted July 7, 2005 Dave... check your PM Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzukidave Report post Posted July 7, 2005 my car did this and you could not even get it into first gear, I had to start the car in gear to get it home. I adjusted the mastercylinder linkage under the dash where the pedal engages and I could drive the car after, but the problem was a clutch slave cylinder. they are only about 60 bucks from ultimate and they have them in stock. I replaced the slave and master at the same time. fairly easy job to do, you can do both in about 1 to 2 hours. I dont know about the clutch arm because Ihave a early one and I hear the clutch arms are different and not a problem. The slave gets weak and will not push the clutch arm all the way through. dave :| Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
US/UK-Diablo Report post Posted July 7, 2005 Andrew, Have been trying to PM & IM you but it's just sitting there. e-mail me at [email protected] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamlotus Report post Posted July 7, 2005 dave does ultimate have a web site? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hazim Report post Posted July 7, 2005 Andrew, I had this problem before and i found out the clutch rod was bent. Then I got this redesigned rods which I think it's made of Tatinem. The guy makes them is John Custer [email protected] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew R. Report post Posted July 8, 2005 Cool... now I know exactly what it is supposed to look like.. I am working on getting the car into the air now... I hope its something I can fix..! :mrgreen: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
L Diablo Report post Posted July 8, 2005 Adam - ultimatemotors.com - They are a dealer in FL (407) 339-3443 SuzukiDave - Hows the motor? Finished yet? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allan-Herbie Report post Posted July 8, 2005 Andrew,I had this problem before and i found out the clutch rod was bent. Then I got this redesigned rods which I think it's made of Tatinem. The guy makes them is John Custer [email protected] How much was this? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hazim Report post Posted July 8, 2005 I think it was about $400-450 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzukidave Report post Posted July 9, 2005 L Diablo Motor still is not done. My machinist in florida is a little slow but he seems to be doing a good job. I have the block and all oil galleries spotless, oil cooler and lines spotless. I had a custom set of rings made by total seal, a new kevlar clutch from fort wayne clutch. My crank had to be turned 10 on the mains and 20 on the rods, the problem is that lamborghini does not make 20 over rod bearings, so we had to source the bearings from elsewhere, that took some time. The crank is turned down and has been sent off to be nitride coated. The machinist should have the connecting rods resized and the crank back to me in a week or two. The cylinder head has been line bored and had bearings installed in it to fix the worn cam journal problem, I am having a valve job done on both heads as we speak. I had the inside surface of the timing cover where the oil pump gears ride machined down 10 thousandths to clean the surface up. All associated surfaces were machined down to compensate for the 10 thousandths. I replaced the oil pump gears although they were still ok but not great. The small oil pump housing was still in good shape. I probably could have left the cover alone but I know a guy who is a fantastic machinist who does stuff for IRL and nascar and said he would fix it for free. I pulled the seats out and redyed them. I think I could have painted the whole car for the amount of time it took to redye the seats properly. My back is still killing me. Been cleaning up the engine bay and decided to pull off the front airdam and have it painted because I cracked it. Thats what is happening with me, hope to be driving it again one day dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Report post Posted July 10, 2005 Hi Dave :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
abolfaz Report post Posted July 10, 2005 Dave, What do you figure the engine work will cost you total? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzukidave Report post Posted July 12, 2005 whats up Mike! good to hear from you dave abolfaz The engine work is gonna cost about 10 grand, with me doing all the labor for "free". That includes the parts, machine shop, and clutch. dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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