IlToro

He has no dash lights, so it wouldn't be a starter fuse, ignition maybe.

Remember there's another fuse/relay compartment in the engine bay, behind side panel, drivers side. More likely to be there IF that's the problem. You can see if the element is blown by looking at the top of those fuses.

97 or 97 1/2? The 97 1/2 has air bag, would bring a little more, but I would say $100-$135K Depending on condition. Also, is it 23K miles or kilometers? Even that will make a difference.

Any of those places are good for jacking, or the stand. They are the frame, where pieces converge are best. You can use a 1 x 4, or similar piece of wood between the jack and the frame, But I never use wood between the jack stand and frame.

Thus connect your pigtail connector direct to the battery and forget about fuses, switches, opening and closing doors, and hatches. etc.

Makes no difference using that little battery maintainer.

This is the way Shamile recommended, and the way I did it. You don't have connect ugly wires on your engine, or open the deck lid.

If your going to run the connector out of the splash shield vents in front of the tire, just make your connections right on the battery.

Right, two bolts, one each side, then slide the panel back and off. Might have to pull on it pretty good.

I like the Interstate MT34 for our cars. The Optima's have more mixed ratings surrounding them than conventional batteries. So while one person may have good luck with them, the next guy doesn't. This applies to more than just automobile use. There is no such experience with a good quality conventional battery such as the Interstate. Admittedly, it’s kind of hard to know what your getting with all the private labeling and, off shore manufacturing, just like everything else Today. Still, if you stick with one with at least 700 Cold cranking amps, comparable weight, and that will physically fit, You will have good results. Another thing to consider with the the premium priced Optima’s, your paying for features like being able to mount it in any position, and vibration resistance, none of which are important to street cars. If you still want to stick with the Optima, I still suggest the RED top, a more pure starting battery. Disclosure. I do not sell batteries or have any connection with any brand, and of course use a maintainer.

Just to clear up the battery thing. Deep cycle, starting, gel, AGM. They are all lead acid batteries. Deep cycle batteries are designed to deliver lower currents for long periods of time, while starting batteries produce high currents for short periods of time, which is what you want in a good starting battery. Optima's, and others claim to do both, and they can, but it comes with a compromise in performance in both departments. Also, weight is still king in lead acid batteries. The heavier, the better. If a light weight lead acid battery claims to preform as well as a heavier lead acid, it's not true. That's just a few facts. It's my business guys, so I'm not just spouting off about something I read.

Yeah power steering makes it a little too comfortable. But the Diablo probably needs it. I'm sure I'd want it, if I parked in parking lots that is...

Not sure I understand, but if the car flashers are flashing, as it would with the alarm going off, I found turning the ignition key on, and pressing the alarm buttons on the key FOB shuts it off. Come to think of it, I think it happened whenever I disconnected the battery.

yes, unfortunately.

Super nice car, been around forever. Is a testament to what high miles do to these car's no matter how well they've been maintained.

Not to butt in, that is the wrong battery. The red tops are the pure starting batteries, and what you want if your going to use an Optima. 8002-002 34. The yellow top is a combo, deep cycle/starting battery, that means there's a compromise to the starting capability.

I was going to say it shouldn't be too hard to install a simple toggle switch to cut it on and off.

I have Actron CP9180, which is known to work, but as stated above, I'm sure there are many cheaper ones that would work also.

Sure, Actron is good for reading and clearing codes. Will post the model I have later.

Best thing to do is get away from Optimas all together, and go with Interstate MT34

The oil pan is exposed, that's about it.

I've been looking hard for these tires with a reasonable mfg date. Tirecrawler.com has 6 left with a date code of late 2011.

Is a major overkill, and is no good for your battery to fast charge it.

The alternator charging to 14 is good. Since the battery has always been pretty charged via the tender, just leave it off for a few days and watch the voltage. If it falls pass 12.7 down to 12.0 or so that's an indication it can't hold a charge without something helping it, the alternator or tender.

From another site. "A compatible filter for the Weber-FI-02/2 is a Napa Gold 3008". Doesn't come up on NAPA web site though. So you didn't drain the tank?