OzMurc

I'm pretty certain this will fit the Diablo based on the fact that the diablo and early murciealago have the same brake parts- so the first set of holes (the inner ones) would be the same, as would he outer ones if using gallardo/R8 callipers You'd need to fit hercules or hermera wheels

do you have a pic of yours? if you don't mind the post (i'm in London, UK) i'm interested in the swap

A Brembo specialist in the UK (Mode Performance) had previously manufactured the adaptors required However when I contact them in August 2014, they had lost the CAD drawing and where not interested in replicating the adaptors. Luckily, the only car i knew of with them fitted, Simon George's famous 250,000mile murcielago (featured in EVO magazine many times) was having its brakes done by Lamborghini Manchester before around Easter this year; Simon kindly let them provide me the adaptros while the brakes where of the car, and I have had them copied (with new CAD drawings made). I now have the CAD drawings, and have had the first set made, and I'm fitting them to my car one weekend this month; here's the pics of the adaptors (shame they are hidden once fitted!):

Well I've decided to update my 2004 to have the 05 update/LP640 callipers & Discs. To do this you need: 1. LP640 discs 2. R8/Gallardo/S6 8 pot calipers (see pics for VW and Audi marks on the callipers) 3. Either LP640 uprights OR caliper adaptor (I went with the adaptor- had it made) 4. Hercules or LP640 wheels (the stock 02-04 wheels do not fit with the 8 pot callipers) 5. (optional) Gallardo/Lp640 brake master cylinder/booster (if you want actual improved braking). I purchased some callipers from a Gallardo on eBay, and decided to paint them (originally silver) after having new seals, and nipples fitted and the caliber itself shot blasted etc. Here's the pic of the finished callipers:

I actually just powder coated my cross bar (rear), mesh exhaust cover, engine and transmission mounts etc as i have the engine/trans out of mine. I'm also painting frame (and internally treating with rust proofer as i can see some rust coloured water runs coming from bolt holes...)

Should have looked in the Diablo section- the same tool is used for adjustment, and this is a damn good write up! http://www.lambopower.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=53321

thanks so much for that pdf page from the 02 manual- makes much more sense! I'm definitely more comfortable with that- and its an easy job since the engine is out. It looks much more like my previous experiences with with solid lifter engines (although that was 20 years ago). Where did you get the pdf of the murcielago as opposed to the lp640 manual? I thought i had scoured the net..

Ok, i've got my engine/trans (e-gear) out as an assembly as I'm replacing my clutch (DIY). I figure, as my engine is at 60,000 miles, and its unclear when the valve clearance was last checked (I would hope when the crank was replaced at 50,000 miles, but theres nothing specific recorded) I figure I'd do this as well. However, looking at the only manual I have (LP 640 egear pdf workshop manual), I'm a little confused- it says to check the valve clearance when the engine is cold (with a warning stop sign); but then the next paragraph shows using feeler gauges between the cam lobe and the lifter- but says to use this when the head is off... I cannot believe that you have to take the head of check the clearance (and shim the lifter)?? I mean I guess I could.. but, to take the heads of, the timing case and variable timing mechanism come of as well, meaning timing the cams as well.... though still don't see why the actual clearance needs to be checked with the heads on a work bench?? See the attached page from the workshop manual. valves.pdf

I've seen this on Facebook, and this is what I won't say on FB... While that's obviously edited from 100s of attempts; and I doubt he'd do it without talking at all, but there is some truth to this. My murci is a daily driver for me (alternate between it and Aston DB9 volante, which the wife prefers to be in) and whenever I drive alone I can say that nearly every drive some girl will tap on the window at the traffic lights for a chat and invariably on a Friday night after work, some girls who've had a drink or 2 will ask for a "ride wherever you want to go, for as long as you like" (and other such flirtatious double entendres). I've only ever had that happen once in the DB9; and never in the various porsches etc i've had before. If I was a single man, I'd really have some busy weekends LOL Funny thing is my wife encouraged me to get it, as she knew its the only car i've ever really wanted, and she said "YOLO" :-) She also gets a giggle from the notes that are left on the windscreen, even though most of the time she is with me (its probably only once or twice a week i'd be in the car without her). Soooo many shallow people out there...

performance wise, you're not crazy- 911 TT is an amazing car- on the road, I doubt theres a faster real world car. I sold mine (well the one I got for the wife) because she drove it twice in 6 months, and kept wanting to go in the Aston DB9 (my daily whip); that's the problem, the DB9 puts a smile on your face every time you look at it, get in it, and hear it.... the 911 turbo- only when you where accelerating through a corner on the motorway (modern porsches since the 993 sound boring too). I've kept the murcielago and the DB9 because they make me smile and feel special every time I drive them... its a better car than my murcielago in outright performance, but doesn't feel special at all, nor make any nice noises.. G's still look great! x2 (my DB9 is the same basically as the DBS (to the point I have DBS sway bars, wheels, front&rear bumpers & side skirts etc- they are all interchangeable the only difference is carbon brakes and a different cam/tuning in the DBS apart from the cosmetics and spring/sway bar rates). I'm 6' and the wife is 5'9; there may be room in the back for a booster seat as long as the legs of the child don't extend past the lower seat squib... the front seats are 2cm from the rears at our normal positions... and Aston actually do not approve the fitment of a baby seat BTW... Maserati has much more rear seat room, as the does the Continental i share YOUR pain... Murcielago's (e-gear) are RUBBISH in stop/start traffic....when you leave enough room (or try) to allow the e-gear to engage, the gap is so large that people cut in, and you end up-half engaging... I hear the mallard's are not like this; either way a manual would be nicer (thinking of converting mine if I get less than 10K out of my new clutch..) Anyhow, the point is a lambo is an exotic, a porsche is not. One is practical, one is an event and appeals to the little boy inside most men... I actually think a porsche is not as good a choice as a GTR if being practical... but then again, being practical, nothing beats a Range Rover I find although I have a dealer network, and independents, I don't use them; I'm incredulous at the history of my car, and what hasn't been corrected considering the number of times its been to a dealer- to many little jobs get put of owing the fact the parts cost may be small, but the labour cost enormous (plus "lambo tax") that over time, to many small jobs pile up- in the process of changing pipes- i'm ending up replacing vacuum hoses/srews/bolts, repainting the steel chassis (flaking black paint leading to surface rust, recoating suspension arms) etc. However, doing the work myself means that the cost to do the extra stuff is pitiful, and the car will end up looking as presentable underneath as inside and the outside..

Since I acquired my car 6months ago, I did an oil change myself as soon as I go it; factory recommended AGIP (though now ENL) 5w-40 TECSINT. It would be fine for a regular drive, but if stuck in bumper to bumper traffic (fact of life in central london) for an hour, the oil pressure light would flicker on at idle; this is winter temperatures ( 10 deg C ambient) even with the side vents opened out; basically whenever the oil temp would be 120-5 from memory. I've since replaced it with 20W-50 AGIP 4T racing as recommended for "performance driving" since apparently traffic is performance driving... Not had a chance to see how it copes with traffic yet as I've pulled it of the road to replace the clutch.... These are seriously old tech engines, down to the solid/mechanical lifters (the last time i had to deal with these was in my teens with 70s cars and big cams); and the lambo engines seem to need what was considered a performance oil in the 70s- 20w-50....

the heat at the back of my car has browned the white vinyl wrap (rather than chip the paint). The factory heat shield is ok still, but i'm getting the exhaust ceramic coated to reduce the radiated heat in the first place..

I Live in central london; where a owning a £4.5m house in a nice suburb is unlikely to include a garage; garages in the same suburbs (knightsbridge & chelsea would cost £250,000 on their own). I'm lucky enough to live in the area in an apartment block with an entitlement to two car spaces; but its rare.... I know this is a foreign concept to most of the USA, except perhaps Manhattan (lived there in 2001) where similar style houses (brownstone terraces on the upper east side) also had no on property parking, yet the cost of the property meant the owner could afford nice cars.

HI, Requesting owner status (have my car in my avatar and enclose pics which definitely show its my car will be posting my pics of my DIY clutch change and vehicle colour change vinyl wrap in the coming weeks.

Did you get a Xemodex upgrade TB? http://www.xemodex.com/technologyimproved/...ni-muricielago/ I was considering that- had the surging on my car in December 13; changed TBs (2 where faulty) but I didn't know about the xemodex upgrade until after that; was thinking of doing all 4 next time I have an issue..

thats so helpful- and after seeing your pictures, now I understand about the e-gear solenoids being in the way.... very obvious now! I'm looking at doing this over easter; I have what looks like the same 2ton engine crane (with load leveller) can't see the jib extension though. I know the oil pipes require a 36mm spanner; any other special tools required, that may not be in the usual socket/spanner sets? I'm in SW1 london BTW, we should catch up for a beer (better than a tea, and summer is coming!)

Hi guys, I want to fit 3 of these to my car, to replace the oil tank drain bolt, and the two sump bolts. Any idea of the thread pitch so that i don't have to lose oil between oil changes to check? Here is the fumoto valve: http://www.fumotousa.com

I'm sure it will sound better; thats the main point of a sports exhaust. Modern manufacturers have really improved header design, and there's very little left to be gained in headers these days, even in the average nissan; not saying no improvements, but the "scavenge effect" has been really sought out by manufacturers to gain better economy numbers and emissions improvements if nothing else. Muffler design is still more of a cost exercise, and of course the noise regulations mean for a large displacement engine, the boxes have to be huge to muffle the noise to regulations. However, by the time the exhaust has reached the muffler, its a slower gas and it has less effect on performance, but a huge effect on "perceived performance" (i.e noise). My exhaust is modified... purely because standard is to quiet :-)

sounds normal to me; its a right hand drive car; the road camber will eventually take the car away from the centreline to my knowledge, if you're at a constant speed. This is most evident in cars with very wide tires.. Creaks sound normal, especially over driveways; my lotus Exige S does, and so does my (older) murci; not loads and more on hot days or very cold days- i think its because the carbon fibre and steel/aluminium parts contract/expand at slightly different rates

no, you remove the exhaust cover panel, and the exhaust ,and the crossbar that the cover panel bolts to, and you can move the engine into the area where the exhaust box used to be.

Ok how do you know? :-) but really, on another forum they show the engine separated enough from the transmission to change the clutch (on an egear). they removed the exhaust box, and crossbar support, and simply moved the engine into the space where the exhaust box was (but didn't lift engine out of the car).

I was looking to this thread for guidance on doing my own clutch. Now i'm confused - first you say you don't need to pull the engine & trans out of the car to change the clutch but now the engine and trans are removed?