OzMurc

can't seem to find this on e-bay; who is the seller?

oh hey, thats me..... I will post up some pics of the parts and difference in transmissions. this is not any harder than changing the clutch yourself... but there are some things to watch for parts wise. There are 2 parts that are kind of optional- in that no one can confirm if they are required or not- these are the only 2 parts I'm missing (i.e havent bought yet): -ECU (engine) -GFU I was hoping to reflash mine rather than buy new units- but the best advice i got was from a tech from Lamborghini in London- "put it together, and see what lights up (on the dash)" so at the moment i'm looking for a well priced manual ECU and matching GFU..... but i have all the other parts and have trial fitted etc. I'm also the only person to have upgraded a murcielago to use a Gallardo/R8 throw out bearing. Despite people who "think" it can be done, i'm the only person to have done it, as I know it requires the purchase of an LP670 bell housing (or clutch cover as lambo calls it)

why not just add extra valves to close of the muffler flow totally? or try my exhaust tips- LP640 end, single pipe entry (like what you plan). I'll post up a pic tomorrow. You can have the tips, and I'd pay you what you paid for yours

def sounds like a software issue; especially if running the same wiring harness. My guess the MPH vs REVs map is out..

the lambo camera is actually this one, made by this german company: you can see the company details on this pic; and also see the heat sink slots from this view too: http://www.please check with our franchised lamborghini dealer sponsors.com/product/MainPic_75418.jpg

those pipes look good.... i bought the larini exhaust of the same guy on ebay- missed out on the pipes as you bought them LOL

LEDs barely draw any current; why not just run them off your DRL/tailights?

LP670 pressure plate and clutch disc and flywheel are all the same as 640/580. What differs on the 670 is the throw out bearing (gallardo/R8); but this has oil ways in different positions than the 580/640 throw out bearing; so you also need the 670 clutch cover (bell housing for most people)- it has different cast oil ways and another modification (where the pressure line from the pump plugs into the bell housing). I will post pics up on my clutch thread. AS a side note- I also made the mistake of buying to short a crane, and had to pull the engine from the side... never again.... bought a longer arm crane to put the engine/trans back in.. PS we should have a beer!

mine was running just a primary cat (euro cars never had the secondary); and the rear muffler was replaced with a quicksilver set up (pipes, no cross over); finished with LP640 tip. These are the quicksilver pipes: http://www.quicksilverexhausts.com/Lamborg...uctbulletin.htm and this is a video a car spotter in London made of my car where you can hear it idle and also drive:

How did you go with the manual conversion? I also bought most of the things needed to do this (pedal box, manual trans+shift tower etc). There is no "slave cylinder" on the transmission- it only looks that way on the parts diagram (badly done). That's the one that actual mounts on the front bulkhead that the clutch pedal depresses. So really its the "master cylinder" (as most would think about it) and it DOES share the reservoir of the brake master cylinder (mounted next to it). The actual "slave" as you call it, is the throw out bearing in the murcielago manual trans (same is true on ferrari 360 and 430 etc). Although its an old thread, i see you've been on in Jan 2016, so I thought I'd ask. I have the part numbers, but a bit late now! LOL. My question is whether you completed the conversion, as I have the following questions: 1. where the holes in the front bulkhead already there for the master cylinder, or did you need to drill them? 2. Did you need to change the instrument cluster (manual does not have a gear position window). 3. Did you re-programm or replace the ECUs for the engine? 4. Did you need to replace the GFA module? 5. Did you change the engine to ECU harness, or simply not use the loom that went to the the TCU and fuses on the passenger side (LHD cars)?

you could make the first part of the trans tunnel removable I guess; I'd probably make it out of aluminium and carbon laminate; mold in some aluminium strips and that way make the part a bolt in/out proposition... personally i'd just move the motor back same as the post by fluid motor union on their website.

here is a picture with the CD changer panel behind the seat removed, showing how accessible the TCU isL

to get the TCU out in a USA car- move the pax seat forward and wind it upright; remove 3 screws that holds the cover (which houses the CD changer) to the bulkhead, then lift that out of the way (and disconnect the connections to the CD changer). You can then see the TCU; unscrew it from its bracket, and disconnect the harness. 10-15min total. Alan key and a screwdriver is all you need (from memory).

yes its probably reading a scale of 0-5V for he throttle position; and only using the fastest shift when 1. sport mode is on and 2. throtle is at 5V; so you could probably have that value changed to some lower number (under 5V). The question is, when you're not accelerating at maximum..... why do you want the "BANG" shift that feels its going to blow the car apart when you're at say, 50% throttle? Unless you're trying for max track/lap times, I don't get why you'd want such a violent shift on the street....

Yes. I'm under the car next week, and I will take some pics to show what needs to be modified (for a manual car). You would need to cut one frame component and replace the section with a centre section with a flange at each end. You may not need to remove the engine, but you'd need to lift it up of its mounts and back; theres no room for the transmission to move forward towards the firewall to remove the two spline drives from engine block and clutch before you can angle transmission down or drop it. You'd slide the engine back, then drop the transmission straight down. It wont work for an e-gear as you cannot get to some of the bolts as they are under he e-gear valves/pipes, and the fluid reservoir lines run between the heads and the water coolant pipes on the engine (I guess these could be re-routed but it doesnt fix the first problem). Ferrari where smarter and mounted their valves and pipes on side, which can be swung out of the way to remove the box.

LOL probably.... or getting in/out of the car doing repeated 1/4 miles or standing Km races.. 2000 miles is a quite a few race miles... what I don't get is how the F**K do they get the power down- a regular LP640 gets FOUR (4!!!) launches out of clutch when using "thrust mode" The lambo dealers tell me people have burnt clutches on a murci driving up the ramp of a delivery truck.... how do they get 1-2000HP through a murci clutch??? what kind of magic is this??

i actually bought most of the components to switch to manual. Only need a manual instrument cluster and (no one can cofirm; a GFA unit and ECUs and engine to ECU harness). For the sake of time (car been in parts for 18 months) I'm putting it together as an e-gear (albeit with the upgraded t/o bearing). The e-gear is a fun thing when out of the city... if I get under 10K miles on the kevlar clutch, I'll complete the manual conversion next clutch change....

i can confirm the MG-F unit works; its a hella part; also fitted to some models of rear spoiler on Audi A3 vehicles. Cost me £17 from the MG dismantler in the UK; cheap and easy. The number plate lights are from a series one Audi TT (will see if I can dig up the part number). Load of Audi parts.

the TCU is only behind the drivers seat (RHD cars) or the passenger seat (LHD cars). ie. same location regardless of car. Its completely separated from the 2x ECU's and GFU etc. Considering a lambo delear can change the PIS (i.e. the slip point) cheap and easy, you're paying for allegedly faster shifts? I fail to see how the software will shift faster than it does in sport mode already- after all to its still a mechanical shift mechanism- and this isn't being changed- i'd imagine to have a significantly faster shift may require more hydraulic pressure or faster acting valve blocks. This is more an issue of hydraulics over software... Also how fast can the clutch disengage/engage? This is down to the throw out bearing- the gallardo/R8 bearing provides a faster mechanism than the old murcielago one- be aware that the faster shifting LP670 has the gallardo bearing. How do I know this? I just installed the gallardo bearing and LP670 bell housing (lambo calls it a clutch cover) that is required when using the upgraded t/o bearing on the murci e-gear box... The Ferrari F360 runs exactly the same pump and lines (well they look the same diameter, not measured them); it may be worth checking what shift times they are getting with them...

my car has 60,000 well driven miles; I use it daily in central london- clutch life- 5-8K miles owing to the fact an e-gear never fully engages 1st gear in stop/start traffic. Now you know why i do my own clutch change. I've just changed to a kevlar clutch and I hope to see some more clutch life. There the clutch cover is the same between manual/egear- but the t/o bearing is different, and the e-gear uses a sensor (added/bolted and dowelled) to the clutch cover. The throw out bearing for he e-gear has magnet added for the sensor, and it has different seals - as the manual uses brake fluid for the t/o bearing, and and the e-gear uses an automatic transmission oil...

nope cost me £1200 from Lamborghini London (including taxes). Its shown below (but note the price is excluding VAT at 20%). Lamborghini London gave me a nice rate and have been very helpful information wise. Don't forget at £1200 plus £500 for the new style t/o bearing, your total price is the same as the old style bearing (£1700) which fails more.. Here is the part number for the clutch cover: http://www.eurospares.co.uk/parts/lamborgh...3465/086323209K

correct, and why I changed my T/O bearing to the Gallardo/R8 version- far less failures, and £500 instead of £1700 (UK prices). Only draw back is you need to use the LP670 bell housing (or as lambo calls it a "clutch cover") I will post about this in a separate thread. PS- all done in my home garage- underground car park of my apartment building :-)

I actually purchased the gallardo master cylinder/brake booster. It looks the same as the original one to me, but I will post side by side pics when i pull the original one out of the car (so you can see if the later/gallardo one is physically externally difderent to the early murci one- i don't think it is)

no the rotors are different; hat depth for a start. You'll notice the holes on the adaptors aren't centred for a reason. The callipers are the same between gallardo/LP640 (and R8 and RS6) but the LP640 is the odd one out disc wise, with a different depth. Also the LP640 has a thicker rotor.

well I wanted a factory approach (which it is apart from the adaptor). You'll notice from the pics the gallardo/LP640 caliper have both Brembo and VW and Audi markings cast in. The 6pot rear brakes (if required) are actually the same as of a porsche cayenne.... Thing is you can run the larger size LP640 rear discs with the standard 4 pot murci rears (same as gallardo).