Diablo_692

No, not really. Kind of why I was asking if you got any movement on yours. I agree that it doesn't look like it was designed to provide much up/down adjustment. Guess that's why in later years they went with the lower pod design.

Bxtech. Did you get this to work, i.e. any movement up or down on the instrument panel while holding the button up? To be honest I've never really gotten it to work or provide any real adjustment on my '93.

Good point regarding the Diablo ECU's, as some of those electrical components may no longer be available to enable the original supplier to make more ECU's. It will be interesting to see how the Factory handles that.

I wonder what the "newest" model is that is considered a classic Lamborghini car for this program - Countach, perhaps early Diablos?? Would be great to see a list of which models the factory currently considers the classics.

An inexpensive automotive stethoscope can be helpful when trying to identify noisy components, bearings, etc. If the noise/whine happens while you're standing by the engine compartment, touch the tip of the stethoscope to the housing of the suspect component and see if the noise gets louder while you're listening. Obviously don't touch the tip to anything moving, and don't get it caught in belts, etc. while trying to access the suspect component. Good luck.

The host (wireless router, cable modem, etc.) should be providing this stuff (DNS server values, IP address) to your client (laptop) automatically. Be sure that the wireless network that you're trying to access isn't MAC filtering to prevent unauthorized access. Did this laptop that you're having trouble with ever access this particular network successfully?

Ok, so I'm curious, what goes under that awesome looking cap?

By chance was that your red Countach sitting out front of Norwood today? If so, it was looking fine!

Looks great! So are you pleased with how it looks and drives after the time spent at Norwood? Would you recommend them based on your recent experience?

Awesome, glad to hear it! Who are using to transport it, and did you pick the carrier or did Norwood arrange it?

No problem. Enjoy it, it's Spring Break!

Great! Glad you're back up and running again.

I'm not sure what your static pressure should be with the engine off and the key in the accessory on position. The ECU's should start the pumps momentarily to pressurize the fuel rail, which is likely the 20psi reading that you saw on the gauges. At this point, there will not be any vacuum on the FPR's because you don't have the engine running. The 20psi seems a little low to me since you said these new FPR's are 30 to 70 psi, but perhaps the pumps weren't on long enough. To truly adjust the FPR's, the pumps will need to be running (like it states in steps 3 & 4 of the fuel pump delivery check) and you'll need a handheld vacuum pump to check the fuel pressures at the different vacuum levels that you apply with the vacuum pump. Doing the "bar to psi" conversions, from the table it looks like from ~26psi @ 600mm/Hg and ~33psi @ 200mm/Hg are the range of pressures you're after. I'm kind of surprised that your pressures went back to 0 so quickly. The manual seems to imply that 1 bar (14.5psi) of pressure should remain on the system for about an hour.

Fuel_Pressure_Regulator.PDF Here's the relevant page from my '91-'93 service manual. It may be of use to you regarding the system fuel pressures at the various vacuum settings.

Looks good. Can't tell from your pictures, but were you able to use the existing mounting brackets (the twisted pieces of flat steel) for your new regulators or did you have to make something new?

Agree with what emanon said; those are the keepers.

What is it that makes a girlfriend's butt get big? Wedding cake. No, I'm not married.

Chipster, The Aeromotive 15633 fuel pressure gauges that you have are supposed to be liquid filled. Perhaps the little vent on the top of the gauge opened and the liquid leaked out. I'm not sure how much needle fluctuation will occur on the Diablo when it's running, but the liquid is in the gauge to dampen that fluctuation and provide a steadier reading. The disadvantage of a liquid filled gauge over a dry gauge is the pressure reading on the liquid filled gauge will be affected by temperature in the engine compartment. That is why the manufacturer provides the external vent on top of the gauge. Once you have it mounted with the vent at the top (so the liquid doesn't leak out), lift up on the stem to equalize the pressure, then push it back down and take your readings. Keep us posted on how it goes.

Great news indeed, but c'mon man, one relay at a time so you (and we) know which was at fault! Seriously though, glad it's running again for you.

Thanks, it's good to have a source should I need any of these parts in the future.

If I may ask, what website are you using to source the relays & fuses? Thanks.

Anyone seen this video yet? Pretty awesome and great sound. Vettel seems to approve!

Thanks, perhaps in the mid to later '90s models, but I don't believe '91-'93 Diablos have this solenoid.

Ok, so curiosity got the better of me. I cut the hose clamp off at the regulator end and the "id" of the OEM fuel line hose is more like 5/16". A 3/8" "id" line would probably work and clamp down ok, but 5/16" will be more snug on the barb fitting of the regulator.