Smoky

Quite true. I unloaded my 03 Murci back in May for a profit (a very small one after almost two years of ownership, but I was in the green none-the-less).

If you wait it out a tuned model will turn up. For a GTR I would definitely want one as modded as possible (assuming tasteful choices). Can't help with the need-a-Porsche-dealer bit, but here's a few I've seen lately. Here's one you've no doubt seen on NAGTROC. It is even white. http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?/t...4995firm-in-pa/ I highly recommend seeing any selection in person before purchase. I've never seen a car lie about it's paint condition in pictures like a GTR can. They really hide defects well, and sellers take advantage of that.

From the service manual: Spark plug type: Champion RA59PP Distance between electrodes : 0.5 – 0.6 mm

Congrats Andy! Glad you are happy with the parts.

Nice sounds. The white letter tires (slicks I assume?) are a nice touch.

...in left-hand drive countries.

Haven't heard of that. Sounds more like the AWD coupling if you hear noise when turning. OBD plug is behind the center tunnel service panel assessible from the passenger footwell.

No prob at all. Glad you got it fixed.

Beautiful car, great writeup! Another win for Roy! I'm just glad he finally sold a Countach to someone in the Western Hemisphere! :-b

Have you CALLED Tire Rack? When I bought Corsas for my Murci all RETAIL outlets said "no way" and even Tire Rack's site said backordered, but all I had to do was call them and they found one tire here, one there, and pieced a set together for me. All tires even had te same mfr date!

Good work. Now you have a "short shifter" ! I love having a die and tap kits in the garage. Very handy tools!

OMFG the forum just ate my reply. Had a detailed writeup all done for you. Arghh!! See attached files. Pg 6 of trim removal and the vent removal. Get a dental pick to aid in unhooking the three plastic tabs inside each vent. Remove vent inner, then outer, then remove or push aside the a/c sleeve. Reach into the vent hole (one on each side of cluster) and access the plastic wingnut. Remove, don't drop it. Cluster is hooked in the back (front of car, back of cluster) with a rectangular metal bracket, like a friction fit when the wingnuts are secured. Take care not to scratch the leather when sliding the cluster up and out. There are also two bolts protruding from the bottom (for the wingnuts). Just go slow and be careful. Set out shop towels out to protect the leather. The cluster has two connectors. One has a lever to flip to loosen the connection on the plug, the other is a tab or just unplugs. The GFA and airbag wiring are under there, as well as a few grounds to be careful when mucking about. There...you just saved $800 in labor (that is the actual amount Lambo dealers charge to do this). Now go have a beer and enjoy the extra mod money. And try not think about the fact that you are dicking around with about $10k worth of OEM hardware doing all this and the job will go much more smoothly! PM me if you get stuck vent_removal.pdf interior_trim_removal.pdf

Credit goes to a fellow named Sergio from German Exotic Auto Care, who helped guide me through this process. Of course, I take no responsibility from use of these instructions. Use at your own risk. They worked for me. The workflow is overall for replacing the switches, but some sub-steps may prove useful for other tasks or diagnostics (such as bleeding the system, refilling, and auto-purging). Common problems that causes the vehicle not raise are the following: - Low Power Steering (P/S) fluid level. (Total P/S system takes 2.7 liters) - Leak from one or both front struts - Leak from the supply line - Failing Minimum/Maximum Switches Open engine lid Remove rear exhaust grille and passenger side engine panel. *Careful with all the screws which are being removed as they are stainless steel from Factory and don't magnetize. Step 1. Inspect and verify Power Steering (P/S) reservoir is at full level when suspension is down. Step 2. Inspect vehicle for any leaks from the front struts or supply line. If no leaks are present, proceed to step 3. Step 3. Remove air cleaner box completely to access the hydraulic lifting unit where the valves are covered by a rubber boot with wiring. Mark the wires as they can be mixed up and switched around. Step 4. Adjust the Maximum switch by turning the screw three turns clockwise then test to see if vehicle is maintained in the raised position. If raised position is not achieved, adjust once more and retest. If raised position is not achieved proceed to replace both "Min/Max" switches. Procedure to replace the valves: Step 5. Remove the trunk wall liner panel that holds the light by folding the top part of the carpet downwards to expose three screws or bolts on the upper part that hold it in place. Step 6. Pull panel completely and search for the bleeder valve in the center. Step 7. Plug the bleeder with a rubber tube going to a container to release the pressurized fluid on to. Step 8. Open bleeder valve SLOWLY AND ONLY ABOUT A QUARTER TURN until no more fluid is extracted, then close the valve. * This releases most of the pressure but many occasions there is still residual pressure at the valves. Step 9. Unscrew the Switches slowly so that if any pressure is present, it will slowly leak out on to the chassis. Inspect seals and replace if any slight tear is on them, I had the seal fail with a minute tear on the rubber portion. Step 10. Fill the P/S system with Dexron III type of Automatic Transmission Fluid and operate the lifting system three times. *First few tries the vehicle will not raise due to the air in the system. When it works properly, it is purged. Go ahead and cycle the lift a few more times just to fully purge. Step 11. Lower the suspension and inspect P/S fluid level and top off. Check for leaks. Continue to perform the self-bleed sequence this way. If at anytime you still have air in the system you can manually purge the system as described in page 29 of the attached file. When complete, wipe everything down real good (though p/s fluid is not corrosive, it is still nasty to leave around, and sitnks). Reinstall all your panels, airboxes, tubes, boot covers, screws, etc. Hopefully that sorts it out. Once it is fixed, never use it again so it stays fixed. :-) 19_Suspension_and_Steering.pdf

If you've got no lift warning lights, and no leaks, then just manually flush the system using the valve located behind the carpet liner under the rear wall of the front boot (trunk). I have step-by-step instructions that I can send to you if you want to try this yourself. You just need a rubber hose from Home Depot, a bucket, a wrench, and replacement p/s fluid. Takes about 10 mins to do right. Check for leaks under the distribution block where the switches mount, which is located beneath the passenger-side airbox (that's where it was on the Murci...yours may be a little different, but prob not by much). Check for leaks on the front shocks. Look for "runs" or drips running along the underbody from front-to-rear. Peace

22k miles and who knows how old those ADV photoshoot pics are. Not at that price. And the orange SL @ Dallas is not in great shape cosmetically at all. Might be a good driver but it has been well worn in and looked to be put away wet. I passed on it.

o-rings went out on the water pump, and the GFA went out.

I was told by two different reliable sources that the silver 6.0 in Houston has had the wrong ratio wheels on it for many miles before oem wherls were put back on, so diff/trans issues have a higher probability. That is why I walked away from this car. And I will never allow Lambo Houston to touch another one of my cars. Their techs are slow and not thorough given the mistakes they made on my Murci right before I sold it. Stay far away.

I haven't tried those yet but sounds good. Savvy has an additional feature to mute the V1 below a user-defined speed. But if that isnt a big deal then ya that add-a-fuse is a nice and simple solution.

Maybe obd1. Obd was a choice for us-bound cars until 94 or 95 if memory serves. Id call v1 first and confirm compatibility. Good luck!

It's pretty straightforward.

Less cutting/hacking at the end of said-wire.

Just use a Savvy and spare your wiring. http://www.valentine1.com/savvy/

Did you find someone? I have a couple recommendations if you end up needing them.

Same car? And maybe here as well, before the wheels and interior were redone? (How many 6.0's have an early-gen spoiler?)

Saw this car up close at the Dallas Lambo cruise last October. Got a couple videos of it... Skip to the last 10 seconds of this video, just a walk around from the front: And this video is short, it is mostly Countach startup but you do get to hear the VTTT rev a little as it drives off: I thought the same at first but when you see it in person it really isn't bad. First-gen Murci wheels would look 100% better though.