Lamborghinikid

Yes , that is a Rosso Vic car. That color can play tricks with the camera. The lighting makes it dark or bright but it is definately a stock rosso car. Looks nice , go get it Mike !

Your car is simply stunning ! I absolutely love that color combo with the SV script and the seats. AWESOME !!! P.S get yourself a "lambo owner" title

:partyman: :partyman: I say move it to a sticky immediately for the world to see. Eric , you better hurry and get it copyrighted before i do .

I replaced mine with a red top Optima and I highly recommend it. My previous one was an Interstate but if your going to go through the trouble of having to pull the wheel I highly recommend getting the best. Its a little higher but the Optima turns twice as hard as my old interstate. Most all local parts stores have them, I got mine from advance for around $119, and it fits perfect. Once you pull the inner apron it is all right there. Everything is quite accessible and an easy change.

I hope him the best but I don't think it can be done without NOS or forced induction. That's a huge number to obtain from my point of view but I would love to see it happen. I too looked into extensive mods at one time but with the money it took to obtain such small amounts of power I decided to leave it alone and get a beater car to experiment with rather than my nice car. When i looked into cam work and hardening everything at the cost of around $12K I was looking at only picking up around 25 true HP. No doubt NOS is the best money you can spend on these cars and get the most gains. Going internal to me has not proven to be cost worthy enough for me to do it. I hope someone is able to make great strides with it so I can follow.

^Youve been here from the beginning, and yet you use your 4th post EVER to chime in out of nowhere and insult someones 280k dollar car???? :roll: No need to add fuel to the fire IMO. Theres obviously something going on between Adnan and Audrey. Let them handle it themselves.. Just my .02cents I think they are just kidding , or i hope so

Few more , http://www.rennsouth.com/attachment.php?at...entid=634&stc=1 http://www.rennsouth.com/attachment.php?at...entid=635&stc=1 http://www.rennsouth.com/attachment.php?at...entid=637&stc=1

http://www.rennsouth.com/attachment.php?at...entid=633&stc=1

Pics didnt work... One sec !

Mike , did you ever see this car ? I heard it went for around 250K some time back . I wonder where it went ? Or what was the true extent of the damage ?

Right on. Sounds like the early cars are the same. I think they are 10MM bolts . Remove them and them and then you will have to "slide" it straight back to get the two pins out of the slots and it comes right off in your hands.

ab, you can shift them as fast as anything when you get used to the gate shifter. No way should you car's 2nd gear grind any. I have driven them and driven them hard and they shift tight and precise. The only car that I ever recall grinding was in 2nd gear and it needed its synchron's replaced along with the clutch. I hope this is not the case but grinding any at all is not part of it. For now to lessen the grind in the 2nd gear shift I would pat the gas a little when you clutch it and it should fall in a little better but I would get it looked at and fixed.

A mutt lambo :?:

Put those wheels on that yellow car and BAM !!! :twisted: :supz: :prayer:

I have a book with that car in it but i was thinking that it didnt have the wing on it ? I do LOVE THAT CAR though ! If that car was offered for $45K i am throwing up with you !!!!! Someone stole that car for that !

Of course i am still the last to know ! SO WTF HAS HE BOUGHT NOW ???? We know it is a CT but what kind , what year ?

Ralph , are you just trying to find what color your car was originally ? Mike , taking the doors apart is a god idea , Also look up inside the fenders from under the hood. Climb in there on top of the spare . They painted those cars with the fenders bolted on but open and a lot of it should have blowed up in there . It would not have been able to blow up I there during a repaint like it would have originally due to all of the headlights and other hardware that would be in place. You should be able to spot some !

Those numbers do not include proto's . They were out of an old book I had but seemed pretty accurate except for the later cars , which they did approximate and estimated numbers on. Didn't Aram have a 78 LP400S car that he bought new ? Not that all of the early cars are not rare but that is one rare bird !

Absolutely , a thumb rule in restorations ... Never remove or cut out stationary panels , 1/4's , roofs, Rockers, firewall's, ETC. unless there is un repairable damage or rust that cannot be patched and that is for any car ! All of those are critical for the structure and alignment of the car as it came. You usually wind up doing more work and damage than if you would have left the stationary's in. Its common to have comebacks around your re joints and tack welds if you don't get them treated and prepped perfectly and kept in or around 75 degrees and up until you get the zinc or primer on. Especially on the backs of some of the welds since you cant get to them and treat them properly. You get a much cleaner job by just doing the repairs needed and leaving them alone. Ralph , call me if you need some details on what I have seen done and what exactly your doing. I may can get help you. Also if you need any PPG supplies to do the project I can call one of my reps and tell him you have a special project and they usually give me the stuff I need or he can call it in at your local PPG pro shop. Its good advertisement for PPG to have these cars out there and in shows and they have always been very giving on projects that I have done. I would be glad to see if I could help you out on yours.

Ralph , the aluminum is very thin and it is in two sections. front half is a long section and the rear half is short. I have never taken one off but I did examined them pretty closely and i had two NOS fenders years ago and i could see how the panels were cut in their raw form. If there was no damage , NO WAY would remove the 1/4's. Even at the factory when they paint the car they paint the skeleton with the roof , fenders,and 1/4's in tact and they have all of the panels in the paint room spread out. So to do a factory correct paint job you need to keep the 1/4's on. The lead filler is a lost art, very few practice it. Then I think they use hair bondo filer over the lead. I think that is why around the door frame you see a lot of "crows feet" that tend to come through the paint after about 10 years. Also keep in mind that those doors were aligned to each panel to that car from the factory. Right now it should have perfect gaps and fit. You will sacrifice it in some ways if you peel it away and it will be a lot of work to get it back right. They are so thin I don't think it can be done without buckling them in some ways . So there will be excessive body work to get them back straight when you get them back on which you dont want. I say don't do it ! Do it just like the factory did ... Skeleton, roof, fenders and 1/4's on the frame with everything else in the booth for perfect color match.

Mike, didnt you and Ralph have some "bar hopping boots" made out of the leftover material from those seats

I wouldnt mind some more shots of that avatar !

I found these in one of my old books tonight and thought i would pass them on. Some of these numbers are mindblowing low. Good luck in finding some of these babies ! LP400 1974- 23 1975- 60 1976- 27 1977- 40 LP400s 1978- 16 1979- 40 1980- 120 LP500S 1981- 88 1982- 96 1983- 114 1984- 132 5000QV 1985-1988 (450 approximate) Anniversary (450 Estimate)

Time to get your feet wet with an exotic. You might want to look into last generation Lotus Esprits. Used prices are in a nice moderate range . 97 up cars are nice and a lot more reliable than the late 80's and early 90's car. There are some nice upgrades on them as well. Very exotic looks , great all around car , respected in all of the car world, and they hold their value pretty good. Its been quite a few years ago but Insurance on mine wasn't that bad either. Good luck in your search !

Sounds just like my lotus i had. The seals were dry rotted and i had to buy a kit. It was holding fluid until i started driving it and then it went quick.