Stick Shift Removal?

Well, my murci is one where the stick shift broke apart at the threaded post the shifter screws to. So, I need to remove the rod that goes down to the shifting tube in the tunnel.

 

I called the dealer to ask about parts and labor. They want $900 for the 6" metal stick, and $2000 labor for installation. They said the transmission has to be removed to replace the knob.

 

Can anyone tell me if they have replaced theirs? The reason I ask is simple. The parts diagram shows that the metal rod simply has a ball on it and is held in with a roll pin. I removed the roll pin already. According to the diagram, it should come out now.....but it wont.

 

It looks like it is fairly snug in the plastic cup it fits it. Does it just need to be pulled? I dont see anything else that would hold it in.

 

Any advice appreciated!

When I replaced my shift rod I had to get from underneath and lower the shifter housing but it required removing the transmission brace if i recall correctly. Definitely not a $2k labor job though. I wouldn't say more than $500.

 

But that was on the Diablo and I don't know what is different between that and the Murcie

Well, my murci is one where the stick shift broke apart at the threaded post the shifter screws to. So, I need to remove the rod that goes down to the shifting tube in the tunnel.

 

I called the dealer to ask about parts and labor. They want $900 for the 6" metal stick, and $2000 labor for installation. They said the transmission has to be removed to replace the knob.

 

Can anyone tell me if they have replaced theirs? The reason I ask is simple. The parts diagram shows that the metal rod simply has a ball on it and is held in with a roll pin. I removed the roll pin already. According to the diagram, it should come out now.....but it wont.

 

It looks like it is fairly snug in the plastic cup it fits it. Does it just need to be pulled? I dont see anything else that would hold it in.

 

Any advice appreciated!

Your Murci's stick shift broke? has one of Rackjoe's old girl friends been visiting your house.

It can be done without removing the engine/gear box.

bone doc, im certain that someone here on LP has experienced this before and there was a write up on how they replaced the stick shift with a new one or even a slightly thicker/stronger stick. sorry, cant find the thread.

Thanks guys. I will search. I have the roller pin out and successfully backed the broken piece out. It was only 3/4" or so. BAD design. Might as well just thread the post and be done!

I found that thread. He did have to move the gearbox out. $2OOO is right. Should have been a recall. Here is a picture. Roll pin #12 goes into the ball of #8. I removed it, yet something is still holding it in!

 

It was a huge pain in the ass to get the shift rod out of that ball. Have you looked up from underneath the car? If Jefflambo says the transmission and engine don't need to come out then trust him. I didn't have to and I don't imagine the design changed that much.

It can be done. its not easy to remove the center support. When it is out the shift gate drops down. The new shifter from Lambo has been updated so this will not happen again with the new one.

 

Are you sure they said engine out. The price they said is very cheep for engine out. But about right for doing the shift knob. Part price is about right also.

It was not engine out. It was "dropping the transmission". What is physically holding that stick in? To me, it looks like that roll pin is it. It also looks like the stick can only come out by going up.

Fixed it....The stick only broke off 1/2" of thread, so I ran a die down it and it is only 1/2"....might as well pcoket $3k ;-) It is 8 x 1.25 if anyone wants to know.

Good work. Now you have a "short shifter" !

 

I love having a die and tap kits in the garage. Very handy tools!

 

 

Sorry I didn't see this thread a week or so ago. I had the same issue with the first '02 Murci I owned. When it happened, all dealers quoted me engine and or transmission removal. It just so happens that one of my best friend's from law school was an engineer at Lamborghini. Back in 2007 when it happened, he emailed me the factory protocol for fixing that issue. It was not an engine and/or transmission out fix. If I recall correctly, the factory budgeted around 4 or 6 hours for the repair.

Broke mine off too (2002). Just wondering if the failure mode of mine looks like everyone elses. I don't really see how there is enough to tap with out the shifter handle extending into the flat area for the shift gate. For those that tapped the stuby piece, did you also cut down the shifter handle?

 

For now I had a sleeve turned to act like a cast on a broken arm.

Is this a problem only with MY2002 cars, or with 2003 cars as well?

Is this a problem only with MY2002 cars, or with 2003 cars as well?

 

Well 2002 and 2003 have the same part number for both the shifter and lever/handle. Only the 2004+ part number is available now which also requires the 2004+ lever/handle to go with it.

 

The broken stub in the console measures between 10.00mm o.d. if someone with a 2004+ could measure their diameter (part going into the transmission, not the removable lever/handle) I would not be surprised if it is a larger diameter.

 

 

I found that thread. He did have to move the gearbox out. $2OOO is right. Should have been a recall. Here is a picture. Roll pin #12 goes into the ball of #8. I removed it, yet something is still holding it in!

 

 

Me again, digging up old threads....

 

I am still working on centering my stick shift. It's off to the right by about 2mm. I looked into moving the shims for the transmission bracket, but that's a no go. The location of the transmission is really set by the engine and front differential mounts. The transmission bracket is really along for the ride, and is not going to overpower the other mounts. I tried loosening the engine and front diff mounts to check for possible left to right play, and there isn't enough to make a noticeable difference.

 

So now, I am convinced the only option is to adjust the shifter itself. So my question is, can you access the #15 and #16 nuts on this diagram by removing interior trim? Looking through the manual, it's not clear if the access is there.

 

Or is there any other way to adjust the shift linkage without removing the gearbox?

 

Thanks in advance!

I don't know if the shifter box assembly is accessible with the driveline in. You definitely have to drop the torque tube (which requires front diff & front axles to be removed) to access it. Maybe you can make minor adjustments to the shifter assembly from inside the car.

 

I've owned 3 different manual Murci's and all of them have different shifter characteristics.

Is it a similar problem on gated LP640?

What led up to the shifter failing? I only ask because my 03 Murci is getting harder to shift up and down. Feels like I'm pushing into play doh with every shift. Side to side still good though. Only in and out of gears. Wondering if this is going to lead to a broken shifter because of the force in putting on the shaft

What led up to the shifter failing? I only ask because my 03 Murci is getting harder to shift up and down. Feels like I'm pushing into play doh with every shift. Side to side still good though. Only in and out of gears. Wondering if this is going to lead to a broken shifter because of the force in putting on the shaft

 

From what I have read about the Murci and Diablo, the shifter breaks from forcing too hard into gear. If you are having to force it so hard that the shifter breaks, good thing the shifter breaks before you end up breaking your transmission, which is much more expensive than a shifter.

Below is the email reply from a former (then current) engineer at Lamborghini (project manager of the LP640 and Reventon) who is the cousin of a friend of mine from law school. I emailed him in 2007 when I had the shifter in my first (low USA VIN) 2002 Murcielago break while on a care rally. I had been told by a dealer that it was an engine out service and I didn't bite on that...

 

As far as I've been told here it should not be necessary to do so; in our workshop the engineers usually do the following:

 

1) dismount the transmission shaft to the front axle (5 screws on the gearbox side and some more on the differential side), disconnecting the front differential from the gearbox and thus allowing access to the lower part of the shifter housing and the relevant 4 fixing screws (the front differential might have to be loosened as well, in order to allow the the removal of the whole shaft)

 

2) remove the fixings to the frame (4 screws on a big black bracket), transversal to the vehicle.

 

3) at this point you have the shifter housing itself, hanging under the tunnel; the only constraint left is a shaft (lever) from the shifter housing to the gearbox,which could be the hardest part of the job: removing the elastic pin. on the garbox side.

 

4) once you've done this, the whole shifter assy is in your hands, ready to have the lever replaced.

 

Shouldn't take more than 4 hrs, while removing the whole engine + gearbox might take a couple of days...

the only constraint left is a shaft (lever) from the shifter housing to the gearbox,which could be the hardest part of the job: removing the elastic pin. on the garbox side.

 

I don't see where your instructions say to remove the silentbloc fixing nut to the shift lever device support. That's another big constraint holding on the shift assembly to the transmission.

I don't see where your instructions say to remove the silentbloc fixing nut to the shift lever device support. That's another big constraint holding on the shift assembly to the transmission.

 

My post was copied directly from the email from the factory. I can follow up with Tommaso and see if he recalls anything else.

It's missing a few details, but in general is a good write up.

 

To remove the torque tube, the front differential must be removed first.