Advice on 1991 Diablo first possible purchase

I need your expert opinions on a possible 1991 Diablo purchase. I found the car at the local Lambo dealer in Vancouver, Red on Tan, has 8,000km, cam tensioners have NOT been done, A/C NOT working and NOT converted to 134A, some rock chips on front bumper and spoiler, NO wing, some curb rash on one rear wheel, original clutch, some cracks in the front A-arm bushings, torn door seals, not the original tires, Good compression test readings all within 5-10% of each other. The car is bone stock. Their asking price is $109k.

 

I've read that low mileage cars are worse than high milage cars, so should I be concerned over the low mileage, or just expect a lot of leak repairs before it is usable? How about the tensioners and A/C? The dealer said that they do not repair A/C, I would have to have that done elsewhere. Are there any signs that the tensioners are about to fail, or is it instant, without warning?

 

Can anyone recommend a good local shop in BC Canada for a PPI, besides the dealer selling the car?

 

I have to admit that one of my weaknesses is negotiating, so what is a fair value considering the work that will need to be completed, your best negotiating tricks and tips?

 

 

Cheers

 

 

I need your expert opinions on a possible 1991 Diablo purchase. I found the car at the local Lambo dealer in Vancouver, Red on Tan, has 8,000km, cam tensioners have NOT been done, A/C NOT working and NOT converted to 134A, some rock chips on front bumper and spoiler, NO wing, some curb rash on one rear wheel, original clutch, some cracks in the front A-arm bushings, torn door seals, not the original tires, Good compression test readings all within 5-10% of each other. The car is bone stock. Their asking price is $109k.

 

I've read that low mileage cars are worse than high milage cars, so should I be concerned over the low mileage, or just expect a lot of leak repairs before it is usable? How about the tensioners and A/C? The dealer said that they do not repair A/C, I would have to have that done elsewhere. Are there any signs that the tensioners are about to fail, or is it instant, without warning?

 

Can anyone recommend a good local shop in BC Canada for a PPI, besides the dealer selling the car?

 

I have to admit that one of my weaknesses is negotiating, so what is a fair value considering the work that will need to be completed, your best negotiating tricks and tips?

 

 

Cheers

 

 

Don't know about Canada, but Around $80-$85 would be more like it in the states. I for one love Queens. It' may need some updating, but at least you don't have to worry about what someone else did with that low of mileage. I'd be concerned about fluid's condition.

 

The seller always has the upper hand with a low mileage car, but being neglected can be a good bargaining tool.

 

I'm certainly not the pillar of wisdom here, but I would think this would fall into the basket-case category. In the States I've seen average 91/92s this year transiting the 60-75k USD range. 91/92s near 100k sit. Out of every year of the Diablo, the 91/92 cars seem to catch the most flak for their issues. Plus, every tech I know says run away bravely. So I wouldn't be surprised if you opened it up and faced 20k+ in repairs because I'm thinking engine-out, reseal, water pump, tensioner fix, coils, gremlins, cosmetics, tires, etc., etc. Twenty-two years is still long enough for things to rot, leak, or break so I'd probably approach it like I was buying a 26yo Countach. All that said, I think there's a secret beauty in a well-sorted stock 91/92 car since nobody thinks of it as a classic and there are still kids who came of age with that poster on their wall -- who have yet to think about buying one. It just depends on why your buying it as far as what you're willing to deal with.

Clutch, tensioners, and a few other things I'm sure that car will need with labor I'm sure you would drop $15-20k.

Why clutch?

way too much money for that car. 91's need lots of sorting out. If you are very mechanical not that big a deal, not mechanical an easy 20 grand to make it reliable

Why clutch?

 

Just assumed if the engine has to come out for the tensioners anyways that he might as well switch to a carbon clutch. Even with the low miles that clutch could be bad. Who knows.

See what good advice your getting. Now LEAN on him to lower the price.

See what good advice your getting. Now LEAN on him to lower the price.

A lot!

I was talking with someone else that was looking at that particular car. What's up with the front hood? It looks a bit tweaked and doesn't seem to shut completely straight against the bumper. Also, if you take note, the front headlights are a mismatched pair. Could these things be evidence of some previous accident repair?

 

However to give the benefit of the doubt, The headlights could be as simple as somebody just replaced only one when it burned out......but at only 8km?? In either case, just take a very close inspection of the front end area.

The engine does not have to come out to replace the tensioners. If one is broke you will hear the chain clatter when the engine deccelerates. I don't think the early cars are ones to run from, if well sorted. In some ways an early diablo has less things to go wrong. I own a low mile 91, original clutch, tensioners replaced, no leaks, everything works and I love it!

 

For the price they are asking it should be perfect!

 

Good luck

You are right about the front hood being off. Besides the spacing at the front bumper, the gaps on either side are not equal. I thought that was because the cars are handmade and not exact. The salesman said that the car is accident free, which means nothing, I know. I'm going to go back again to have a look with it up on a hoist, maybe I will see some evidence of a previous bump or damage. I was also thinking that the car was priced too high. Would I get tossed out on my head if I offer 85-90k?

You are right about the front hood being off. Besides the spacing at the front bumper, the gaps on either side are not equal. I thought that was because the cars are handmade and not exact. The salesman said that the car is accident free, which means nothing, I know. I'm going to go back again to have a look with it up on a hoist, maybe I will see some evidence of a previous bump or damage. I was also thinking that the car was priced too high. Would I get tossed out on my head if I offer 85-90k?

 

Tell him everything that was mentioned in the thread and then offer him 80k. I wouldn't be worried about being tossed out on your head because you are a legit buyer. It is one thing to come in and say I will give you 80k. It is anther thing to come in and say A, B, C, D, E......Q is wrong with the car. I am looking at +20k to fix it. This car is priced way too high and this is my offer based on the work it is going to need.

 

Also what the heck is up with the dealer saying they aren't going to fix the A/C? Sounds like a shitty dealer.

The A/C repair could cost a TON!

I would be in the $72000 area with your offer.

The A/C repair could cost a TON!

I would be in the $72000 area with your offer.

In all fairness, it could be an easy fix. Have the car checked out.

Yep, could just need recharging. Again, it can't be worn out.

Yep, could just need recharging. Again, it can't be worn out.

 

 

In Canada, I was told that legally shops are not allowed to recharge systems with the R12 refridgerant, the system will have to be converted over to the new 134A, and from what I am told that would require changing of certain components.(condensor, evaporator, etc) I will look into having it repaired in the US.

 

The dealer told me that they don't do A/C work and the service manager gave me the name of an outfit that sells and repairs A/C components. I have not called them yet.

 

 

Yep, could just need recharging. Again, it can't be worn out.

 

There is no repairing an R-12 system..

It Would have to be converted to the R-134A system

I just went thru this with my 91 Diablo..cost me $7000.00

 

Anything is possible

 

Worst case would be...

 

If it has not been pressurised and air has entered the sysytem....

 

Not worn out, but totally corroded internally .....its junk.

 

Price out replacing the condensor, the compressor , the receiver/dryer and evaporator. $9000 easy.

There are shops that hv r12 still and they are not as expensive as they used to be. You don't need to replace any component really. Just evac the system and fill. There s a leak usually which means some part needs to be replaced. If the compressor is bad or leaking, you will need to change addl parts.

 

 

Generally, if the system hasn't been left open, and the car hasn't been stored outside in damp or cold conditions for long periods of time.....the A/C internals will be okay. Even if it has depressurized, it will usually be fine.

 

I'm not an A/C specialist, but I do work on my own A/C system. So please don't take my advice as coming from an expert. Use these recommendations at your own risk! What I would do is:

 

- First, briefly press one of the schrader valves to see if the system has any existing pressure at all in it. If so, this is a good sign!

- Turn the compressor by hand (the clutch, not the pulley) to see if it's free and any good.

- If the system does have pressure, I would put the leak detecting dye into the system and recharge with R12 or R12 compatible Freon. Make sure you recharge correctly using a gauge set for the high and low sides. If you don't know how to do this, it would be wise to hire someone with the correct equipment and knowledge.

- If the system does not have any existing pressure, I would connect a gauge set, evacuate the system with an evacuation pump for a period of time (I've let it evacuate overnight before), and see if holds vacuum.

- No matter what, you will need to put the leak detecting dye in and recharge the system to find a leak. You will also need a blacklight.

- Bottom line is that you will need to find those leaks and fix them.

 

There's not very many people that service systems with R12 anymore since it's so expensive. However, I found a manufacturer out of Southern California that makes an R12 compatible Freon that you can completely fill your system with, or simply top off. No changing of your seals, receiver/dryer, fittings, etc as you have to do when you convert to 134a. I don't remember the company's info off hand, but I can look it up if you want it.

 

I suspect that your A/C system may not be in that bad of shape and might be able to be saved with minimal effort. As IlToro had mentioned......the parts shouldn't be worn out.

 

 

djantlive beat me to the punch! As I was writing up my post, he posted before I finished and basically said in a nutshell what I was trying to say. I honestly don't think your whole system needs to be replaced, but I would definitely get some sort of estimate on what it would cost to repair.........Then use that in your negotiation. Good luck.

Sounds like a car I wouldn't touch with a 10-foot pole...