DIY clutch install on my Murcie

Ok how do you know? :-)

 

but really, on another forum they show the engine separated enough from the transmission to change the clutch (on an egear). they removed the exhaust box, and crossbar support, and simply moved the engine into the space where the exhaust box was (but didn't lift engine out of the car).

 

 

I've just done my e-gear clutch. Two issues that mean you have to pull the trans, first is there's long threaded studs that hold the e-gear solenoids on top of the bell housing, you just cannot get to them in situ, secondly, the e-gear oil reservoir pipes pass between the rear water pipe to the heads and the heads them selves, you can just get it off in situ, but you'd never get it back. It's not too big a deal to pull the trans too however.

 

Just putting it back together now...

I've just done my e-gear clutch. Two issues that mean you have to pull the trans, first is there's long threaded studs that hold the e-gear solenoids on top of the bell housing, you just cannot get to them in situ, secondly, the e-gear oil reservoir pipes pass between the rear water pipe to the heads and the heads them selves, you can just get it off in situ, but you'd never get it back. It's not too big a deal to pull the trans too however.

 

Just putting it back together now...

 

 

Shoot, I was hoping this thread was going to give me hopes of a DIY clutch change without pulling the trans out. I liked the idea of not even removing the motor from the car, but just backing it up.

 

Any details on doing the egear clutch change? How did you do the computer part of it? (egear setup)?

Very cool! Fluid MotorUnion recently posted pix on their blog and Facebook of a Murci clutch swap. The step by step photos of the whole process were awesome. They swapped to an ECT Kevlar clutch assembly.

 

Anyways, thanks for sharing. DIY stuff like this is badass!

 

Do you have a link to it? I'd love to review it. I was at 50% last summer, I am guessing I've got 2 more summers to go before I need to do this.

http://www.fluidmotorunion.com/sections/pr...tch-replacement

 

Jon, FMU is in the Chicago area.

http://www.fluidmotorunion.com/sections/pr...tch-replacement

 

Jon, FMU is in the Chicago area.

 

Righty, I see what they did there. I was trying to do the same as Patty, i.e. undo bellhousing and pull the motor, without touching the trans. This cannot be done on an e-gear. What the FMU boys have done is pull the front diff from the torque tube and pull the motor and trans back, as an earlier poster suggested. This would give you access to the bell housing bolts to get the motor out, leaving the trans in the chassis, albeit pulled back a bit, with the torque tube to the front diff disconnected. I'd suggest it's easier to pull the lot out; the only biggy is getting an engine crane with enough reach to get this lot out and back in again. I had to make a jib extension to my crane to do this. Looks like FMU did similar to their engine crane on their coupe engine out only clutch change. See their Youtube video and look at the end of the engine crane. Pics shortly, I'm travelling at present..

 

Anyway 24 or 40 hours book time my arse. Start to finish, around 15-18 hours, and I'm an amateur spanner man, it was my first time. That included tea (I'm a brit) and bacon sandwich breaks, of which there were many.

Shoot, I was hoping this thread was going to give me hopes of a DIY clutch change without pulling the trans out. I liked the idea of not even removing the motor from the car, but just backing it up.

 

Any details on doing the egear clutch change? How did you do the computer part of it? (egear setup)?

 

 

Pics and details later. Went to a local indy with LARA to reset the e-gear clutch details. Got all the info from SV workshop manual that Patty posted. The local indy didn't really have a clue, I drove Lara to update the files. Also then went for a drive and felt the difference in changing the PIS (point of initial slippage) that other's have posted of.

 

When I put it all back together (apart from this still disconnected plug you read on the Murci forum) was fine to drive, gear selection all fine. Went to chum's shop to get A/C recharge, then to indy for the trans coding.

Pics and details later. Went to a local indy with LARA to reset the e-gear clutch details. Got all the info from SV workshop manual that Patty posted. The local indy didn't really have a clue, I drove Lara to update the files. Also then went for a drive and felt the difference in changing the PIS (point of initial slippage) that other's have posted of.

 

When I put it all back together (apart from this still disconnected plug you read on the Murci forum) was fine to drive, gear selection all fine. Went to chum's shop to get A/C recharge, then to indy for the trans coding.

 

 

Hope your still around when I attempt this myself. Hopefully you took good notes. I have done some amazing things, like putting 400 SB chevy in a porsche back in the 90s, and SC my Viper, replaced numerous clutches, etc. So I am not afraid of the job, but I hate when they are so complex that it takes weeks/months to complete them, not because its hard, but because its such a tedeous job, that you cant bring yourself to work on it but for a few hours at a time, and then its so daunting, that you just dont want to even go out to the garage to put in another session. Maybe I am just getting old. In my 20s this never stopped me at all. lol. Now with Family... its easier to do the 'honey do list' then get the garage time. Its inevitable though, I am sure I'll be undertakin this myself, as I cant bring myself to spend that kind of money to replace a clutch, just seem insane, when I think about how CHEAP it has cost me to do every other clutch job (sub $500 from Porsche's to Vipers).

 

Again, thanks, and its great to see the support on this forum for when I need a question or two answered along the way!

 

Jon

http://www.fluidmotorunion.com/sections/pr...tch-replacement

 

Jon, FMU is in the Chicago area.

 

 

Awesome, much appeciated!

what a day. Now in UAE (Hello Vahid!) on shitty hotel Internet. Might go and get a 3G dongle.. Anyway, Lambomatters...

 

Lifting the motor and trans using chum's lightweight crane, but which has 4 swivel casters. I only have a small garage at home, and it was cramped.

 

 

7' headroom under the door was just enough, but had to drop the car right down on a jack..

 

Patty lent me his large adjustable, it is needed for the sump oil pipes and A/C compressor pipes ! :-)

 

 

Load leveller ($50 on ebay) was a must. Assembly has to go in and out at a steep angle and level to bring back..

 

 

 

 

 

 

Righty, I see what they did there. I was trying to do the same as Patty, i.e. undo bellhousing and pull the motor, without touching the trans. This cannot be done on an e-gear. What the FMU boys have done is pull the front diff from the torque tube and pull the motor and trans back, as an earlier poster suggested. This would give you access to the bell housing bolts to get the motor out, leaving the trans in the chassis, albeit pulled back a bit, with the torque tube to the front diff disconnected. I'd suggest it's easier to pull the lot out; the only biggy is getting an engine crane with enough reach to get this lot out and back in again. I had to make a jib extension to my crane to do this. Looks like FMU did similar to their engine crane on their coupe engine out only clutch change. See their Youtube video and look at the end of the engine crane. Pics shortly, I'm travelling at present..

 

Anyway 24 or 40 hours book time my arse. Start to finish, around 15-18 hours, and I'm an amateur spanner man, it was my first time. That included tea (I'm a brit) and bacon sandwich breaks, of which there were many.

 

thats so helpful- and after seeing your pictures, now I understand about the e-gear solenoids being in the way.... very obvious now!

 

I'm looking at doing this over easter; I have what looks like the same 2ton engine crane (with load leveller) can't see the jib extension though.

 

I know the oil pipes require a 36mm spanner; any other special tools required, that may not be in the usual socket/spanner sets?

 

I'm in SW1 london BTW, we should catch up for a beer (better than a tea, and summer is coming!)

Incredible!

Good work!

Just an FYI, if you jack the front end of the car up that will make the rear sit a little lower and also allow you to not have to tilt the engine/trans assembly at as steep of an angle.

looks like a lot of damn work… sheesh good job