Looks like a very nice Countach for sale!

My cars twin! Judging by the periods of storage, the sagging rear shocks droopy mirrors etc, expect a motor rebuild, suspension etc... But cosmetically looks to be in great condition..

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lamborghini-Counta...em=291580066581

 

 

My cars twin! Judging by the periods of storage, the sagging rear shocks droopy mirrors etc, expect a motor rebuild, suspension etc... But cosmetically looks to be in great condition..

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lamborghini-Counta...em=291580066581

 

 

I was looking at this beauty this morning. I think it's a GREAT deal for a car in great condition. It gives me that nostalgic feel when I look at it. I hope it goes to a great home instead of someone that's just going to flip it for a quick buck and add $150K to the price. I think the price is better than the shitty condition 88 1/2 Ferrari of NJ is trying to sell for $400K with the wrong wheels.

I was looking at this beauty this morning. I think it's a GREAT deal for a car in great condition. It gives me that nostalgic feel when I look at it. I hope it goes to a great home instead of someone that's just going to flip it for a quick buck and add $150K to the price. I think the price is better than the shitty condition 88 1/2 Ferrari of NJ is trying to sell for $400K with the wrong wheels.

Remember this car will need approx $100k in work.

Remember this car will need approx $100k in work.

 

Very true. What would you offer, honestly, if you were buying?

 

For those of you guys who send a car like this to someone for $100K of work, what does that usually entail? Is that like a nut and bolt restoration?

Very true. What would you offer, honestly, if you were buying?

 

For those of you guys who send a car like this to someone for $100K of work, what does that usually entail? Is that like a nut and bolt restoration?

 

 

No.. a full nut bolt resto would be more.. If this car is in great shape on the exterior and interior, it still needs a full mechanical resto and euro conversion.

Alan, I don't doubt what you're saying, but how the hell could a car with 5800 miles need an engine rebuild?

Alan, I don't doubt what you're saying, but how the hell could a car with 5800 miles need an engine rebuild?

From sitting.. all gaskets dry rotted out, fuel and oil lines dry rotted. Who knows how it was stored, but if the ad says it needs servicing from storage.. you can bet its been sitting unused for a long long time.

This is one of the more interesting cars to come up for sale in a while. No doubt that I'd seriously look at if I didn't have one.

Looks stunning! Wondered how many years it sat in storage?

great looking car!

agree with Allan it will need lot of $ for the sitting

I have to say I'm like Emilio and I love working on cars. If I was the one to buy this car I'd probably replace and rebuild a great bit of components by myself but making sure to do it right. I'd learn how to rebuild the engine and of course I couldn't do everything by myself but I think it would be an emotional experience to restore a car like this and then to have it be a part of my life.

I am surprised by the $100K claim repair. The car is is great cosmetic shape. Much more than the black one for $600K...

but an engine out and suspension repairs to change some bushings and gasket cannot be $100K or am i living with old pricing?

Droopping mirror is typical in any countach. Sometimes it is just the adjustment. the leather quality tells me the car was cared for

Auction ended and the car is sold.

Auction ended and the car is sold.

It was a good buy for someone. I too would be skeptical about the $100K number but you never know.

 

The number depends on how far you want to push things.. I believe they charge now $25k just for the front and back euro conversion. When you pull the motor, and you do things right, for example it cost me $6k just to do the valve job on the car, carbon clutch, high capacity alternator etc... everything adds up fast.. Then add the exhaust, headers etc... And rest assured, you will find other issues you will want to fix, whether its spider cracking in the paint, to brake lines, stuck calipers. etc.. So yes, a 100k figure could be very realistic.

The number depends on how far you want to push things.. I believe they charge now $25k just for the front and back euro conversion. When you pull the motor, and you do things right, for example it cost me $6k just to do the valve job on the car, carbon clutch, high capacity alternator etc... everything adds up fast.. Then add the exhaust, headers etc... And rest assured, you will find other issues you will want to fix, whether its spider cracking in the paint, to brake lines, stuck calipers. etc.. So yes, a 100k figure could be very realistic.

 

Thanks for elaborating. I think a lot of us were curious about that number. I don't doubt that $100K in things could be found, it's just such a high number!

Thanks for elaborating. I think a lot of us were curious about that number. I don't doubt that $100K in things could be found, it's just such a high number!

Sure is but it shrinks when you realise a throw out bearing is 6k.

Sure is but it shrinks when you realise a throw out bearing is 6k.

 

ARE YOU SERIOUS?! That's insane! I know Chad was saying that he utilizes a lot of Diablo parts for the Countach because some are higher quality, more reliable and easier to find and cheaper. I really want to start a parts business and manufacture high quality replacement parts for a decent price. Do you think that people would be opposed to purchasing things like that? 6K for a throwout bearing is crazy.

GT Parts in Arizona is said to be rebuilding throw out bearings btw. Doc, when working on a Countach, you have to remember that it is a very difficult car to work on. Not really complicated, just difficult. I have found it easier to remove the rear decklid/wing and sit in the trunk to work on the engine, if I'm doing much to it. A good example is what happened when the pin on the starter bendix cam out on mine. I couldn't press it back in, so I had to remove the starter. Guess what? I had to drain the coolant to remove the air box and left carbs, take off the exhaust, left rear axle, two headers on the left side, a heat shield & wiring. JUST to get at the starter! All very tight clearances. Anytime I work on it, my chest & arms look like I got in a cat fight. I'm scratched everywhere. Everything is packed tight. Even if the parts where free, the labor would surprise you.

GT Parts in Arizona is said to be rebuilding throw out bearings btw. Doc, when working on a Countach, you have to remember that it is a very difficult car to work on. Not really complicated, just difficult. I have found it easier to remove the rear decklid/wing and sit in the trunk to work on the engine, if I'm doing much to it. A good example is what happened when the pin on the starter bendix cam out on mine. I couldn't press it back in, so I had to remove the starter. Guess what? I had to drain the coolant to remove the air box and left carbs, take off the exhaust, left rear axle, two headers on the left side, a heat shield & wiring. JUST to get at the starter! All very tight clearances. Anytime I work on it, my chest & arms look like I got in a cat fight. I'm scratched everywhere. Everything is packed tight. Even if the parts where free, the labor would surprise you.

 

Glad that someone is doing it. I really want to run a parts business one day or possibly work on redesigning old parts that are prone to failure for vintage cars like this.

 

I know for sure what you mean by difficult. To get to my alternator, I have to put an engine brace on my car, remove the front wheels, remove the power steering hydraulic lines, remove the front suspension, remove the subframe/steering rack and then end up having enough space to get all of the scars I have all over my hands, lol.

GT Parts in Arizona is said to be rebuilding throw out bearings btw. Doc, when working on a Countach, you have to remember that it is a very difficult car to work on. Not really complicated, just difficult. I have found it easier to remove the rear decklid/wing and sit in the trunk to work on the engine, if I'm doing much to it. A good example is what happened when the pin on the starter bendix cam out on mine. I couldn't press it back in, so I had to remove the starter. Guess what? I had to drain the coolant to remove the air box and left carbs, take off the exhaust, left rear axle, two headers on the left side, a heat shield & wiring. JUST to get at the starter! All very tight clearances. Anytime I work on it, my chest & arms look like I got in a cat fight. I'm scratched everywhere. Everything is packed tight. Even if the parts where free, the labor would surprise you.

 

You are in for shit when the first steps to working on your car is remove rear trunk deck, get a pillow to kneel on, a blanket to lay on and prepare to be hurt.

 

Oh yes and don't break or force anything because it is made of unobtainium.

 

 

6k? Wow, I should think about selling my spare throw out bearing.