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You need a new $4k mirror. LIES!!!!!!

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And so, I've done it. After many many tries and failures, I've found the issue was within the motor. When the motor was unscrewing itself when hitting limit at one side, that produced upwards motion of the rotor, so the brushes went down touching the armature and then they wouldn't conduct electric force. Sooo I cleaned up the motor collector, stacked a small shim to limit the upwards travel as a precaution and bended the brush contacts a little upwards. It worked out finally.

 

I got it apart and back like 15 times, so be sure now I'm close to god level in these poor motors.

Damn, no wonder the dealer refused to try and fix mine.

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Damn, no wonder the dealer refused to try and fix mine.

 

I'm somewhat local, let me know if you want me to take care of them.

 

And so, I've done it. After many many tries and failures, I've found the issue was within the motor. When the motor was unscrewing itself when hitting limit at one side, that produced upwards motion of the rotor, so the brushes went down touching the armature and then they wouldn't conduct electric force. Sooo I cleaned up the motor collector, stacked a small shim to limit the upwards travel as a precaution and bended the brush contacts a little upwards. It worked out finally.

 

I got it apart and back like 15 times, so be sure now I'm close to god level in these poor motors.

 

 

Glad you finally got this sorted. I just saw it.

 

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I'm somewhat local, let me know if you want me to take care of them.

Excellent! I am waiting for the passenger side to fail completely. As of right now, it folds out completely no problem and on fold in I step outside by the passenger door reach in to operate the window switch and give the mirror a slight nudge at its sticking point and then it folds in. Some day it will bust completely I am sure.

 

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Hi all,

I've recently undertaken this project and rather than taking the motor/gear assembly apart I purchased exchange units from Gruven.  With this setup they are using high-torque motors that draw more amperage than the factory motors - upwards of 5amps each on startup.  Since I decided to replace both driver and passenger side units the 5 amp fuse will blow every time with both mirrors plugged in.  With just a single mirror connected either will operate fine - so I don't believe I am looking at a short somewhere, just too much of an amperage draw.

Gruven has suggested using a 10amp fuse in place of the 5amp fuse.  Does anyone have concerns with this method?  The alternative would be to keep the factory motors and just use the brass gear.

Thanks in advance!

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37 minutes ago, Houston said:

Hi all,

I've recently undertaken this project and rather than taking the motor/gear assembly apart I purchased exchange units from Gruven.  With this setup they are using high-torque motors that draw more amperage than the factory motors - upwards of 5amps each on startup.  Since I decided to replace both driver and passenger side units the 5 amp fuse will blow every time with both mirrors plugged in.  With just a single mirror connected either will operate fine - so I don't believe I am looking at a short somewhere, just too much of an amperage draw.

Gruven has suggested using a 10amp fuse in place of the 5amp fuse.  Does anyone have concerns with this method?  The alternative would be to keep the factory motors and just use the brass gear.

Thanks in advance!

What other things are connected to that fuse?

How easy was the swap using the gruven assemblies? I need to do this to mine asap.

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56 minutes ago, yellomurci said:

What other things are connected to that fuse?

How easy was the swap using the gruven assemblies? I need to do this to mine asap.

Mirror motor/heating element and fuel door are all that I can see are connected. 

With the complete assembly it cuts out a lot of time and/or potential frustration with installing the new gear.  At least that has been my viewpoint so far.

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As a follow up to my post above:

Not being overly assured that the small wire gauge on these cars is the same on GM vehicles that use this motor with a 10amp fuse - I tried a 7.5amp.  So far so good and I'm not as concerned about running a larger fuse in a circuit that may not be up to the task. 

If a person does not want to use the high-torque motor but still wants a 'drop-in' unit using the original style motor then Paul at Gruven has stated he is happy to rebuild as such.

Thanks again to gmendoza and all the others for these great posts!

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Houston, did you send the entire assembly to Paul to match up the motor? I’ve gotten disassembly down to the step before separating the metal casing, so I haven’t seen whether the gear is broken but I’m guessing it is.

Has anyone ever bought the GM assembly?  Looks the same, I wonder if it’s worth buying as a drop in replacement. 

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achilles99,  you can send the entire motor/gear assembly to Gruven on an exchange basis or just specify for them to rebuild your units and eat the core charge (this might be preferable as the exchange unit you receive may look like it came out of a swamp - if you're detail oriented). 

The initial drawback that arose for me is that they replace the motor with a high-torque unit which creates more amperage draw and pops the fuse when both mirrors are activated.  Just specify to not use that motor.  Otherwise you will have to move up to a higher amp fuse as I did.  I can't say that this motor is really needed on our cars as the swing is not as great as on a GM vehicle.

By the way, our units are the same.  It's a drop-in replacement but you will still have a plastic gear. 

 

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Seems my day finally arrived where the passenger mirror no longer moves. Months of slight coaxing while working the switch was working pretty well, but as you can see now stuck in the middle position. It doesn’t even make a grunt/gear noise anymore, although driver side works fine so I figure no fuse blew. If I could just get it to open all the way then I would just leave it like that in the fully open position but no luck...ugh!

E122E93A-B54B-44A9-8758-3640AE732C4F.jpeg

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On ‎6‎/‎6‎/‎2019 at 3:25 PM, JanDaMan said:

Seems my day finally arrived where the passenger mirror no longer moves. Months of slight coaxing while working the switch was working pretty well, but as you can see now stuck in the middle position. It doesn’t even make a grunt/gear noise anymore, although driver side works fine so I figure no fuse blew. If I could just get it to open all the way then I would just leave it like that in the fully open position but no luck...ugh!

E122E93A-B54B-44A9-8758-3640AE732C4F.jpeg

Mine are stuck in the open position but they stick out so much vey are very vulnerable so I think I will make the repair soon.

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Good idea to fix it. I am taking mine in tomorrow for rebuild on the passenger side. Seems there are some downsides with the brass gear unit and the plastic too, so just doing plastic. I figure if it lasted 10 years already then I may get 10 more out of a rebuild.  You are right, they stick out way too far to keep extended all the time. I already accidentally bumped into my drivers side mirror by leaving them out, but seems ok.

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Thanks to Raging Bull in Costa Mesa my passenger mirror now works again. They rebuilt my existing mirror with new gear & motor. This was something way beyond my capabilities especially without damaging something else in the process so it was well worth  having the experts handle it. Seems the small plastic gear broke right in half.

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Glad you got it sorted. To update the thread. As it has been stated, Gruven now offers high torque motors. I strongly advise AGAINST these. These work great on the GM trucks but not on the Murcie. The Murcie relies on a small post to limit travel of the mirror. High torque motors could put too much stress on this post on potentially lead to failure, My recommendation is to modify the oem motor, if you are using the brass gear (definately recommend the breass gear), by removing the noise suppressor inside the little electric motor. Gruven can also supply you with modded, oem motors.

  

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