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You need a new $4k mirror. LIES!!!!!!


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And so, I've done it. After many many tries and failures, I've found the issue was within the motor. When the motor was unscrewing itself when hitting limit at one side, that produced upwards motion of the rotor, so the brushes went down touching the armature and then they wouldn't conduct electric force. Sooo I cleaned up the motor collector, stacked a small shim to limit the upwards travel as a precaution and bended the brush contacts a little upwards. It worked out finally.

 

I got it apart and back like 15 times, so be sure now I'm close to god level in these poor motors.

Damn, no wonder the dealer refused to try and fix mine.

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Damn, no wonder the dealer refused to try and fix mine.

 

I'm somewhat local, let me know if you want me to take care of them.

 

And so, I've done it. After many many tries and failures, I've found the issue was within the motor. When the motor was unscrewing itself when hitting limit at one side, that produced upwards motion of the rotor, so the brushes went down touching the armature and then they wouldn't conduct electric force. Sooo I cleaned up the motor collector, stacked a small shim to limit the upwards travel as a precaution and bended the brush contacts a little upwards. It worked out finally.

 

I got it apart and back like 15 times, so be sure now I'm close to god level in these poor motors.

 

 

Glad you finally got this sorted. I just saw it.

 

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I'm somewhat local, let me know if you want me to take care of them.

Excellent! I am waiting for the passenger side to fail completely. As of right now, it folds out completely no problem and on fold in I step outside by the passenger door reach in to operate the window switch and give the mirror a slight nudge at its sticking point and then it folds in. Some day it will bust completely I am sure.

 

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Hi all,

I've recently undertaken this project and rather than taking the motor/gear assembly apart I purchased exchange units from Gruven.  With this setup they are using high-torque motors that draw more amperage than the factory motors - upwards of 5amps each on startup.  Since I decided to replace both driver and passenger side units the 5 amp fuse will blow every time with both mirrors plugged in.  With just a single mirror connected either will operate fine - so I don't believe I am looking at a short somewhere, just too much of an amperage draw.

Gruven has suggested using a 10amp fuse in place of the 5amp fuse.  Does anyone have concerns with this method?  The alternative would be to keep the factory motors and just use the brass gear.

Thanks in advance!

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37 minutes ago, Houston said:

Hi all,

I've recently undertaken this project and rather than taking the motor/gear assembly apart I purchased exchange units from Gruven.  With this setup they are using high-torque motors that draw more amperage than the factory motors - upwards of 5amps each on startup.  Since I decided to replace both driver and passenger side units the 5 amp fuse will blow every time with both mirrors plugged in.  With just a single mirror connected either will operate fine - so I don't believe I am looking at a short somewhere, just too much of an amperage draw.

Gruven has suggested using a 10amp fuse in place of the 5amp fuse.  Does anyone have concerns with this method?  The alternative would be to keep the factory motors and just use the brass gear.

Thanks in advance!

What other things are connected to that fuse?

How easy was the swap using the gruven assemblies? I need to do this to mine asap.

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56 minutes ago, yellomurci said:

What other things are connected to that fuse?

How easy was the swap using the gruven assemblies? I need to do this to mine asap.

Mirror motor/heating element and fuel door are all that I can see are connected. 

With the complete assembly it cuts out a lot of time and/or potential frustration with installing the new gear.  At least that has been my viewpoint so far.

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As a follow up to my post above:

Not being overly assured that the small wire gauge on these cars is the same on GM vehicles that use this motor with a 10amp fuse - I tried a 7.5amp.  So far so good and I'm not as concerned about running a larger fuse in a circuit that may not be up to the task. 

If a person does not want to use the high-torque motor but still wants a 'drop-in' unit using the original style motor then Paul at Gruven has stated he is happy to rebuild as such.

Thanks again to gmendoza and all the others for these great posts!

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  • 3 months later...

Houston, did you send the entire assembly to Paul to match up the motor? I’ve gotten disassembly down to the step before separating the metal casing, so I haven’t seen whether the gear is broken but I’m guessing it is.

Has anyone ever bought the GM assembly?  Looks the same, I wonder if it’s worth buying as a drop in replacement. 

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achilles99,  you can send the entire motor/gear assembly to Gruven on an exchange basis or just specify for them to rebuild your units and eat the core charge (this might be preferable as the exchange unit you receive may look like it came out of a swamp - if you're detail oriented). 

The initial drawback that arose for me is that they replace the motor with a high-torque unit which creates more amperage draw and pops the fuse when both mirrors are activated.  Just specify to not use that motor.  Otherwise you will have to move up to a higher amp fuse as I did.  I can't say that this motor is really needed on our cars as the swing is not as great as on a GM vehicle.

By the way, our units are the same.  It's a drop-in replacement but you will still have a plastic gear. 

 

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Seems my day finally arrived where the passenger mirror no longer moves. Months of slight coaxing while working the switch was working pretty well, but as you can see now stuck in the middle position. It doesn’t even make a grunt/gear noise anymore, although driver side works fine so I figure no fuse blew. If I could just get it to open all the way then I would just leave it like that in the fully open position but no luck...ugh!

E122E93A-B54B-44A9-8758-3640AE732C4F.jpeg

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On ‎6‎/‎6‎/‎2019 at 3:25 PM, JanDaMan said:

Seems my day finally arrived where the passenger mirror no longer moves. Months of slight coaxing while working the switch was working pretty well, but as you can see now stuck in the middle position. It doesn’t even make a grunt/gear noise anymore, although driver side works fine so I figure no fuse blew. If I could just get it to open all the way then I would just leave it like that in the fully open position but no luck...ugh!

E122E93A-B54B-44A9-8758-3640AE732C4F.jpeg

Mine are stuck in the open position but they stick out so much vey are very vulnerable so I think I will make the repair soon.

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Good idea to fix it. I am taking mine in tomorrow for rebuild on the passenger side. Seems there are some downsides with the brass gear unit and the plastic too, so just doing plastic. I figure if it lasted 10 years already then I may get 10 more out of a rebuild.  You are right, they stick out way too far to keep extended all the time. I already accidentally bumped into my drivers side mirror by leaving them out, but seems ok.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks to Raging Bull in Costa Mesa my passenger mirror now works again. They rebuilt my existing mirror with new gear & motor. This was something way beyond my capabilities especially without damaging something else in the process so it was well worth  having the experts handle it. Seems the small plastic gear broke right in half.

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Glad you got it sorted. To update the thread. As it has been stated, Gruven now offers high torque motors. I strongly advise AGAINST these. These work great on the GM trucks but not on the Murcie. The Murcie relies on a small post to limit travel of the mirror. High torque motors could put too much stress on this post on potentially lead to failure, My recommendation is to modify the oem motor, if you are using the brass gear (definately recommend the breass gear), by removing the noise suppressor inside the little electric motor. Gruven can also supply you with modded, oem motors.

  

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On 6/20/2019 at 9:43 AM, JanDaMan said:

Thanks to Raging Bull in Costa Mesa my passenger mirror now works again. They rebuilt my existing mirror with new gear & motor. This was something way beyond my capabilities especially without damaging something else in the process so it was well worth  having the experts handle it. Seems the small plastic gear broke right in half.

How much did raging bull charge you? Did you bring in car, mirrors off car or just the motor? Thanks for the info. 

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On 6/24/2019 at 7:56 AM, gmendoza said:

Glad you got it sorted. To update the thread. As it has been stated, Gruven now offers high torque motors. I strongly advise AGAINST these. These work great on the GM trucks but not on the Murcie. The Murcie relies on a small post to limit travel of the mirror. High torque motors could put too much stress on this post on potentially lead to failure, My recommendation is to modify the oem motor, if you are using the brass gear (definately recommend the breass gear), by removing the noise suppressor inside the little electric motor. Gruven can also supply you with modded, oem motors.

  

So modifying you are stating change gear as directed ourselves or have Gruven do it for us and send them our motors with old gears attached?  What was lead time (if you sent them yours) to get completed?  Thanks for all your work early on and for updating this thread when able! 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update:  Here is and IMO the easiest way to do this... Thanks for the info on removing and disassembling the mirror... made it much easier to figure out. 

 

1) Remove and disassemble the mirrors to remove the motor as mentioned in this thread.

2) Go on to Gruven and purchase the $229.99 (x2) price for left and right mirrors using the link in this thread. Titled on Gruven is (Strengthened Spur Gear for 2007+ GM Trucks Folding Mirror Assembly). 

3) Email [email protected] and include your invoice number so they don't ship the actual parts to you and inform him what car you are working on.

4) Ship Paul the motors and include a copy of your invoice in the box.  When he received these he turned them around the same day!!

5) He will modify your motors by removing the noise capacitor (which only will show noise in the stereo on AM radio... so nothing to worry about here) and also installing the brass gear.  The benefits are 1) you won't have a stronger motor which could damage something in the long run, 2) you won't have any issues with fuses blowing due to higher amperage draw and 3) a solution which should last the life of the car.   Since our mirrors only fold partially the movement (from A-B) isn't that far and we are not in a rush to make them move faster... just be more reliable. 

6) (please read A & B before going to #7) Motors will arrive with a "P" and "D" labeled on them. These are for Passenger and Driver respectively so be sure you install them in the correct housing.  Reinstall the motors.  My holes were slightly off since they removed the motor from it's outer shell.  I just used a pic or small screw driver to help locate the holes once back in the mirror housing to pass the 3 longer bolts back through.  

A) Don't forget the "horse shoe" looking metal threaded ring which needs to be slid onto the motor before installing back in housing. 

B) You will need to orientate the metal (threaded) horseshoe ring in the correct position so that when you reassemble both mirrors haves the screws will locate themselves and grab the threads.  I used a dab of superglue to hold them below the appropriate holes after putting the other mirror 1/2 up to verify orientation. Since there are multiple holes be sure to do this correctly otherwise you will need to dissemble again and start over on this part.  This is what the machine screws thread into as the motor only has holes, not threaded holes.  In addition the screws won't be long enough to engage the horseshoe without this process.  Made it super simple and only took a couple minutes to prep with super glue.. only a dab.  Once you get all 4 screws started you are basically done... 

7) finish reassembling the mirrors and install glass.  They should be oriented all the way out (like when driving).  If your glass broke when removing (one of mine did) you can order through Glen at AMHParts.  Their around $140 each and the newer style have plastic backing so the they are much stiffer and won't bend/brake when removing down the road.  Clearly Lamborghini noticed a need there and changed the design.  My 08' had the older version still so unsure if plastic backed glass is in the 09' or 10' models or something that came later after production was over.  

Now your all set!  This is the only way I would do it and much easier than fiddling with the brass gears and worrying about them lining up correctly, and not to mention for the cost... you can't go wrong, let the experts do it!

Thanks for all the information in this thread before as it made this job much easier. Hopefully this update will help someone in the near future and beyond do this themselves.. 

Cheers, Bryan

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