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Old Guy Garage

Interior carnage! How to bleed the egear F1 actuator

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Great video. They really did not make those bleed valves very accessible. How long did it take you to remove and put back the interior?

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I took my time, figure 4 hours r/r. While I had it apart I cleaned the sticky buttons as well as added the shift bezel.  The "hard" part is where the screw was for the seatbelt surround. It's behind the alarm light, you have to remove it to access the screw. Also made new seat belt retractor covers as mine were cracked/broken.

Being old and 100 degrees in the shop did not help either, LOL

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43 minutes ago, Old Guy Garage said:

Being old and 100 degrees in the shop did not help either, LOL

I used to have that problem.

Check out Mr Cool. You can do the install yourself without any special A/C tools. 3 Ton unit gives a lot cooling power, so you don't need to insulate the garage to stay cool.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NW1GQVS/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

System comes pre-filled with refrigerant and uses special quick connects to avoid the need to vacuum and charge. You only need to drill a 3.5" hole in the wall for the pipes and wires and run 220V. It throttles itself down when less cooling is needed, so go with the bigger unit to have the power when you need it. It's also a heater. Has a remote, and app for remote control.

I wish I had room for a lift like yours, but if you asked me to choose between a lift or Mr Cool, Mr Cool is winning every time! It's makes all the difference being comfortable.

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I need 7 tons of AC to cool my shop, at least.... The heat I can somewhat take, but the lift is more important. Tired of crawling around on the ground. Had quickjacks and others, this Bendpack LP is the shizzits.

 

My garage has one of these 2 tons in it.

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18 minutes ago, Old Guy Garage said:

I need 7 tons of AC to cool my shop, at least.... The heat I can somewhat take, but the lift is more important. Tired of crawling around on the ground. Had quickjacks and others, this Bendpack LP is the shizzits.

 

My garage has one of these 2 tons in it.

Don't get me wrong, if I could have both, I would have the lift and the AC. I can't the have the lift without moving houses.

Your shop must be huge! 3 tons can do a 2000 sqft house.

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I enjoyed your real time video.

Why the bleed screw access is not so easy...Italian tradition I suppose.

Would you consider an access panel on the outside of the center console's leather?

Lastly, the Neutral Switch DTC code...was its failure coincidence or related to the bleed procedure?

 

 

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1 hour ago, Kenny94945 said:

I enjoyed your real time video.

Why the bleed screw access is not so easy...Italian tradition I suppose.

Would you consider an access panel on the outside of the center console's leather?

Lastly, the Neutral Switch DTC code...was its failure coincidence or related to the bleed procedure?

 

 

Looking at the location of the bleed ports, any access panel would stick out like a sore thumb above the passenger's seat. Another idea would be to re-engineer the internal panels to somehow make it easier to get just that side panel for the tunnel off without having to pull the entire interior.

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I cleared the switch code, I think it was a result of the bleeding/self learn as I have done snaps before and it never came up previously. I will of course monitor it. You would have thought they might have made the console on the pass side in two pieces, but what's done is done and we have to deal with it.

The root cause of the indicator light flashing , IMHO in retrospect was two of the 3 bleeder screws were 1/4 turn loose. I did replace the F1 pump as well as it was original. 

If you ever need to go into a shop and get it done, at least you now know what's involved.  Changing the F1 pump would also necessitate this procedure. 

Hope this video and post helps someone else.

Hey mods can I get an "owner" label under my user name? LOL

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