LAUTLOS

> Here CHP is cracking down on that stuff, they even have a report your neighbor phone number. I for one pay my annual renewal fees with bounties that I get for reporting all those tax cheaters.

Uhm... looks like the same car/driver that ran a little low on gas during a Highway 1 driving event with Valentino two weeks ago.

Get an OBDII reader. Cheap is ok. Plug it in under the steering wheel. Read out the numeric error codes. Look them up in the service docs. I have this reader (which fits nicely into the glove compartment): http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3030-Innova-Di...s/dp/B000EVYGQY The fault code tables can be found here (by selecting your model): https://serviceinformation.lamborghini.com/.../web/en/OBD+II/ This will provide you with more than just two dash warning lights.

I shall do my best to comply with his suggestion.

> to the new owner in LA How does that work with CA emissions?

> Hey guys, am currently shopping for a pre-loved '07-08 Gallardo Superleggera > and someone told me that there were some "improvements" for the 2008 SLs... > briefly mentioned about ecu/tcu upgrades plus some more - which cannot be > replicated on the '07 cars. Actually, the 2007 US cars (the 152 of 172 total that were manufactured between June 8, 2007 and December 18, 2007) are a little different from the 2008 US cars (the 20 that were manufactured between December 18 and the end of the production run in the spring of 2008). They come with a polycarbonate rear window, thanks to a config mistake at the factory. Technically that's illegal in the US, but Lamborghini did get an exemption for it retroactively (i.e. no need to swap). http://edocket.access.gpo.gov/2008/E8-8991.htm http://edocket.access.gpo.gov/2008/pdf/E8-8991.pdf I for one own a July '07 car, and I think that the risk of being decapitated by a shard of polycarbonate during an accident is of course well worth the weight savings! :-) I test drove a 570-4 last fall... and decided to keep my car... because the sum of the improvements matched my expectations: it wasn't big enough. I'm waiting for the Gallardo successor instead.

> I don't even know...The factory alarm was a bit confusing...I think one mode is for towing?? The other disarms the alarm completely, I think... One button disables the tilt sensor, so that the alarm won't trigger when the car tilts during shipping. The other button disables the interior motion sensor, so that you can leave your significant other, or baby, or pet in the car without triggering the alarm. > I just leave my doors unlocked anyway...If someone wants the car, just take it.... To reduce the wear and tear from heat cycles, leave the engine running too! :-)

> an alarm is an Insurance requirement Some insurance companies won't settle for an immobilizer or alarm, but require a tracking system. Which can be had from companies such as LoJack, GuidePoint, etc.

The "space covered" counters are useful too. Those actually let you see in which gear you spent miles... so it is trivial to tell highway cars from city cars, let alone Boulevard posers. :-)

When I went to my 4th set of PZero Corsa tires on the 2008 SL a few days ago, I lost my tire pull virginity. Yep, that's right, my first time! As it turns out, one of the two front tires did turn out to be bad: minutely misaligned outer bead, and a seemingly more soft side wall on one side, resulting in conicity, which in turn did cause my car to pull left. During my first drive I noticed that the silver stripe at the CF top of my steering wheel suddenly pointed right... even though I was going straight, and that the pull to the left was especially strong under heavy "kick it" acceleration. An initial visual inspection only suggested that the gap between the top of the tire and the bottom of the fender seemed ever so slightly smaller on the front left than on the front right. It looked as if someone had lowered the left side by almost 1/2". So... back to shop I went. Now, while the front wheels could be moved to the rear (to see if the pull disappears) the back wheels don't fit on the front (since they are wider). So we started with a different experiment: a different set of wheels + tires. No pull. So the suspension and alignment (i.e. the car) probably were not the culprit. Next we swapped the two front tires. We could have tried a simple left-vs-right swap, i.e. running them backwards for a very short test drive, but that still wouldn't have told us which one to blame. So instead we swapped with a full unmount/mount, in the course of which we already started to suspect what used to be the front left, and now became the front right -- that tire just didn't look and feel right. And sure enough, once mounted on the right, at least the lowered suspension Ghetto look was gone. The car still pulled left of course, but I could begin to tell that it was now coming from the front right side. One day later... a replacement tire from TireRack was delivered, went on the right front wheel, and voila, all is well again! Now all that's left is for UPS to pick up the bad one, for return to TireRack. So far I'm very pleased with how painless this has been in terms of process: a phone call, describing the problem, and the replacement was on its way. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/tec...e.jsp?techid=12 Oh and no, the difference in circumference (left vs right side wall) is too small to show up with my simple "piece of string" method. It really only shows under load i.e. when on the car. So, why did the shop not notice this during the test drive after the initial installation? Because they were taking it easy: it was pouring heavily during that week. (Insert bad memories of gvan going for an alignment, and suffering from a bad "test drive" in the rain, followed by many weeks without a car.) Anyway. So now I know how tire pull feels. :-) I probably wouldn't have noticed it, had it happened on some cheap car with shitty suspension and less-than-perfect alignment. :-o Drive safely!

You mean an idiot display, to remind the driver to adhere to common sense? No, Lamborghinis do not seem to require that sort of thing. Different clientele. :-D

Fwiw, with my 22,500 mile service just completed, I now do have another E-gear snapshot for my car. Therefore I can compare it with the one from the 15,000 mile service last summer. At 15,000 miles I saw this usage: Neutral 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 6th Reverse Coupling Counter(%) 17.08% 22.55% 20.27% 15.17% 9.84% 7.20% 3.33% 4.56% Space Covered(%) 0.02% 0.51% 6.71% 13.59% 11.09% 7.15% 60.94% 0.00% At 22,500 miles I saw this usage: Neutral 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 6th Reverse Coupling Counter(%) 17.29% 21.99% 19.87% 15.42% 10.35% 7.58% 3.51% 4.00% Space Covered(%) 0.03% 0.48% 6.23% 13.87% 12.66% 9.82% 56.91% 0.00% In short: my driving pattern is extremely consistent. In terms of clutch wear I have seen this: 3986 miles = 0.99 mm = n/a 6160 miles = 1.13 mm = 0.0644 mm per 1k mi 15105 miles = 1.60 mm = 0.0549 mm per 1k mi (incl. road trip mostly in 6th) 22459 miles = 2.09 mm = 0.0595 mm per 1k mi In short: a fairly consistent wear rate of ~0.06 mm per 1k miles. The OEM Gallardo clutch is said to be fully worn in the ~5.0-5.5 mm range. I got ~2.9-3.4 mm to go, which should translate into another ~48-56k mi. Plus the 22.5k miles that I already have on the odometer... and I should be looking at a new clutch during the 60,000 mile service. (Well, probably that would be the next owner -- I'm currently planning on ~45,000 miles for me.)

> Looks great! I love the buttons, didn't even know they made those in CF. They didn't make them until now.

today's upgrade: the center buttons http://www.macarbon.com/store/gallardo-roc...ob-set-647.html

> So I sign up for a program at a hotel in Long beach. > I get to the destination and I'm in goddamned Cerritos. > So now, thanks to this pos gps I'm sitting here... The DoD is conducting GPS tests over southern California this week: https://www.faasafety.gov/files/notices/201...erville_GPS.pdf Fwiw, there is another one over the east coast for the next 4 weeks: https://www.faasafety.gov/files/notices/201...TL11-01_Rel.pdf

Me? I drove ~240 miles in my Superleggera. :-D

> how many percent do you think is Yugo's speedometer off? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speedometer#I...onal_agreements If the Yugo complies with EU standards, then its speedometer is required to show between 100% and 110% + 4 km/h. (And yes, this is why my 2008 G SL will show 218 mph = 350 km/h when it's really only doing 196 mph = 315 km/h at Vmax.)

> Long story. I was driving the Yugo That last picture with the speedometer made me think "I didn't know that the Yugo is aerodynamic enough to hit that speed... in free fall..." :-D

> Anyone has any recommendation? I went to the local home and garden store, bought a rubber door mat of suitable size and texture, and then used scissors to cut it to a perfect fit. In fact, I got two of these: a small one that covers just the area under the pedals and my heels, and a large one that covers all the way to the seat. Sorry, no logos or fancy looks. Just a plain, simple, barely visible, but very functional mat. Which I can replace in a heart beat whenever it wears out. Would it be nicer if it had a Superleggera floor mat look to it? Not really... since it's dirty anyway. :-)

> Always wondered about a car coming off the dyno......the AWD dyno definitely is riskier it seems! Doesn't look like the front was strapped down at all.

> ok i just bought some g12++, the dealer told me to mix it 1 to 1 with water. is that correct information? not water, but *distilled* water as for the mix ratio, read up on it on the web etc. heck, my last bottle of coolant described mix ratios for different temperature ranges on its sticker

> any help would be great While I really do not like the looks of cars lowered that much and I continue to wonder about the effects of keeping the lift up for long periods of time, I took a look at the part diagram. And I suspect that the solution might be pretty trivial. See part 400971059A, the wiring harness? I bet it contains a ground and two wires -- one for up and one for down. If so, then cut the down wire and route that through a switch, e.g. in the center console (a la lift & camera buttons). Locate that wiring harness on your car. Then use a volt meter to watch what happens on its wires when you lift/lower. It it is indeed simple on/off behavior to actuate valves to let fluid go to the shocks and back, then voila, insert your own switch into the right wire, and you're done. The harness is cheap enough to not worry much about getting the cut wrong -- just order another one if need be. PS: You are indeed decapitating squirrels... at their ankles!

> the car hit the limiter @ 8250 rpm on the street but @7800 rpm on the dyno don't no why When on the dyno, is it getting enough (intake) air? 5.2 liters * 8,250 rpm / 2 strokes / 60 seconds = 357.5 liters or 12.6 ft^3 per second... which have to be sucked in through two rather tiny "holes". Some dyno operators place fans in front of the intakes... but... are those really sufficient to simulate air intake behavior at 8,250 rpm driving speed? You could hook into the OBDII connector, and look at the live data.

> is there anyway to disable the automatic lowering of the car when going over 40mph. basically i was wondering is there anyway i can keep the car lifted at all times. You could modify the lift system software (firmware for the appropriate control module). I don't know of anyone who has attempted this, let alone succeeded. You could modify the lift system hardware (to always keep the pressure up). Again, I don't know of anyone who has attempted this, let alone succeeded. You could do the opposite of lowering the car i.e. install taller springs and shock absorbers. I don't know if anyone is making suitable springs and shock absorbers. The car's handling is likely to be worse. And aerodynamics at high speed is going to be an issue. What are you trying to achieve? Turn decapitated squirrels into ones that get squashed under the car, out of sight?

> On just about every car in the USA, it is under the steering wheel...Sometimes > the plug is facing you, some times it is facing down, and you really have to get > your head under the dash to see it. First time I had to locate mine in the G... I simply used my DigiCam to take a picture, and looked at it. Poor man's mirror, so to speak.